A few months ago, I concluded Lamiglas had discontinued their fiberglass old line rods, because they had become very difficult to find, even on their website. Or perhaps they were going out of business altogether. As I recall the Lamiglas situation was discussed on this forum. Because I had previously wrapped four of their glass rods, and had none left for my own use, decided to build one more. They are lots of fun to fish the small creeks in the Sierra..

After an internet search I found a couple at Angler's Workshop and purchased a 2- piece 7'6" 4 wt.
When I started the wrap, I found the finish on the blank to be quite soft: not slick at all and close to sticky. I went ahead and started the wrap and found the thread was nearly impossible to slide and pack. I got the tip top and a couple guides on with lots of effort, but the results were less than satisfactory. I have wrapped a number of unsanded fiberglass blanks (Steffen Brothers), with less effort and very satisfactory results without near the difficulty of the Lamiglas wrap.

After a closer examination, I also noticed the typical mustard color of the blank was slightly botchy. I don't know if that's related, and I can live with the color.

So is there a way, I can improve the surface to a more typical and slicker consistency? Or should I return the blank? I'd like to keep it, but I'd like the wrap to be acceptable, and hopefully less difficult.

It's been 3-4 months since the purchase: the cost was close to $200.

Please advise,
Thanks, Jack

If I liked the blank and wanted to keep it, I'd strip the present finish off and continue from there.

ditto Lynn's comment.

Jack,
Boy, you’ve got a difficult question to answer, foremost is the “soft, sticky” feel of the existing finish of the blank. The veterans may be better-suited to attempt to answer. While Lamiglas may have originally been old-school (1970s?), all of their products have remained in high esteem even recently, me being one but can’t afford them. I can only assume that someone, somewhere along the line, (improperly) recoated the blank, possibly returning it after-the-fact; only speculation.
Apparently, from your description, exchanging it for a replacement is out-of-the-question. If so, there are two options for you; the first possibly being more labor-intensive yet ultimately more proper and the second being quicker yet more iffy.
Option #1.) Use a razor blade held 90* to the surface and length of the blank to scrape-off the existing (soft) finish; this usually goes quite quickly = <20 minutes. Due to the existing finish being somewhat soft and not chipping-off as if it would when hard and rigid, wipe-down the blank with acetone and allow it to degass for 12-24 hours. Lightly sand with >400 grit to blend the surface down the length of the blank. Either leave the sanded finish or apply a coat of PermaGloss (PG) or equivalent. Wrap and finish as you normally do.
Option #2.) Apply a coat (or two) of PG over the existing, tacky finish and allow it to fully cure for 24 hours, and simply see what the surface is like. The PG will afford a nice “shell” albeit over a questionable base but may be all that is required. Worse-case-scenario, you are only out a little bit of PG and time. If not satisfactory, see Option #1.
That is the best my novice status can offer, but I will be following the topic to learn from others more experienced than me.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I would just return if you still can. You might get everything cosmetically acceptable, after a lot of work, just to suffer Lamiglas breakage. I’ve had wonderful fishing experiences with Lamiglas. That transitioned into years of defending them with many later customers who we’re having frequent issues. Now it seems like it’s a majority of customers who are experiencing manufacturing issues followed-up with long customer service delays. I live in Oregon and can’t believe the quality of their wares in tackle shops. The $80, Asian manufactured rods are better in build quality than the much more expensive Lami’s. The surfcasters seemed to stay on their bandwagon longer than everyone else. That seems to have drastically changed in their forums and on the beaches and jettys. I tried to live in their past with them and finally got burned. I really wish this weren’t so.

Be prepared to refinish the blank if you use Permagloss to overcoat, it will lift many uncured finishes and paints, it's pretty hot. Love the stuff, but it has it's limitations.

Jack,
Spencer is right-on-the-money = PG is quite hot. But what do you have to lose? As stated, if coating the existing rod proves unsatisfactory, strip it; if satisfactory, you saved time and effort.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Because I'd like to keep the rod, and I like the challenge of getting it in condition to make it a completed, finished rod, I'm thinking of Mark's option #1 or maybe #2. Either way, although I've read and heard a lot about PG, I have never used it. How is it applied? Does it act like finish epoxy and self level? Do you put it on a dryer? Is it a one-coat treatment? How heavy are the coat(s) applied? Any other hints/advice to help a first timer get a good result?

Thanks Mark, Spencer, responders, and thanks to all you vets on your day today.
Jack

Pick a hidden spot and see what a solvent like acetone or DNA will do. As long as it is just bad finish, I see no harm in trying. If something is wrong with the fiberglass, better to find out before you put time and money into it. If solvent won't do it you can always default to the razor blades/sandpaper solution.

Call me lazy:)

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Coat it with citri- strip let it sit overnight, and scrub it off with a scotchbrite pad. See how far that gets you. You might have to repeat. I wouldn't start scraping just yet. No need to finish coat the blank with anything. After done being built you can use carnuba wax. "No top coating of bare blank required" comes from Lamiglas via phone about a rebuild I did some time ago.

Keep in mind that once you alter the finish, any warranty may be voided. I'd check with Lamiglas before doing anything.


..............

Jack,
If Lynn is correct "No top coating of bare blank required" comes from Lamiglas via phone about a rebuild I did some time ago” and that means the original blank had no coating, you have a mess of a defective blank! I cannot imagine the actual resin used to manufacture the blank being soft = but something is not right here. Good luck and keep us informed of what you end-up doing and how it turns out.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Mark, the original blank had been coated. I stripped and scotchbrited the blank, then called Lamiglas to ask if the blank need be recoated before re-wrapping. They said it was not needed. OBVIOUSLY contacting Lamiglas would be the first step.

Touche’ Lynn; I agree.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.