Russell, GREAT POST!!! I’m glad I made you think of it lol. Your observation / question “I find it interesting as to which ones were prized the most by time period and area of the country” is point-on and I too would be interested in learning the answer from as many as possible. It actually deserves its own topic / post although I certainly do not mind it “stepping on” this topic. I suppose it
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Brandon, I cannot answer from personal experience but, as you, have read conflicting reports on tinting PG, especially when attempting to turn it completely opaque. All I can offer is test, test, test. Another option might be to employ David’s method (again I have no personal experience) with powder pigment mixed into CTS Crystal Coat with an ambient temperature of 70* or less to allow the epoxy
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Spencer and Guy, Thanks for your contributions as well. It is good to know that others consider Sabre rods to be worthy as well. Knowing very little on the subject back then, I followed the advice of a number of others who suggested the Sabre rods were the best bang-for-the-buck; and I now certainly agree. It has afforded me with many fond memories and delicious fish dinners. Amongst others, my
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David and Brandon, I hope you took no offense with my initial “Rare” remark. I thought Brandon was referring to “clear coating” a blank in which case PG, or similar, is the typical approach. But now that I have learned you are adding pigment, that throws “rare” out the window. I would think that both of you would benefit from using the thinnest viscosity epoxy available and one with an extended
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Rare would be the person who advocates coating a blank with thread finish; and rightfully so as most blanks entirely coated with thread epoxy end up a lumpy, heavy mess. But it can be done and end-up looking as good as the most perfect factory finish and thin enough to rival the weight of Perma Gloss (PG)…. If you have the time and patience. When I first started building rods and before knowing
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Russell, Ron and Darrin, Thank you for the replies containing appreciated info. It is good to learn that others consider Sabres to be good rods and not just the fact that I was born, raised and still live in LALA Land where they were manufactured and so have to like them, right? The rod has served me very well and I still take it on some trips, but admittedly more as a back-up to the rods I have
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Hunter, Power, rotisserie curers (Michael is correct = they are not actually dryers) are simply a matter of convenience, and they are certainly extremely convenient! That said, they are not required to cure thread wrap epoxy. Hand turning the rod while the epoxy cures may be old-school but it works, and in some cases better than power turning. The top of the guide foot ALWAYS retains less epoxy
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Due to sparse and conflicting information acquired from other online sources, l am looking here for past and present history of “Sabre Rods”. I am rebuilding the first saltwater rod that I purchased (mid-late 80s), a 7ft. 12-25lb golden-colored Sabre. The foam (EVA / Hypalon ?) grips are still in great shape and the rod even sports COF wire boat guides lol. But the thread wraps were showing their
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Mo, The .5mm wall CF tube should be fine for an UL, especially if using a full-length foam bushing. I think you may be able to just have 1in bushings at either end but check the compressive “squish” factor first. Are you using slip-rings or just taping the reel to the TH? If using slip-rings, you will need to concern yourself with 3 issues; 1. Make certain they are tapered or swagged to fit th
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Aaron, Elegantly simple = very nice!!!
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Tony, First of all, relax. You are on the uphill part of the learning curve and shouldn’t expect it to be all smooth sailing!!! From your description, I would give 10-to-1 odds you are using a SINGLE line static load test rather than a 2-LINE static load test. Secure the tip top as you see fit and attach your weight to the tip top. Run a SECOND LINE (THREAD) through the guides with only enough w
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Jeff, As, apparently, most others, I start a ferrule wrap as close as possible (.020-.030in) to the open end of the female and wrap away from the end. It is always nice when a guide just happens to be mounted at the ferrule = kill 2 birds with the same stone = the wrap serves to both strengthen the ferrule and secure the guide = cleaner appearance (and even less weight for the hair-splitters). I
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Jeff, I applaud you for your contribution to the cause = thank you!!! I have learned immensely from numerous people on this site, you are now included, who have unselfishly and graciously shared their knowledge and experiences simply to allow others to benefit. As you, I have felt obligated in returning the favor when stumbling on something that worked for me and shared it on the site. Do not al
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Matthew, Boy, that’s a loaded question destined to draw replies from even those who might normally refrain. When one looks at it logically, the numerous winds of thread holding a guide in place far exceeds the required strength required, so in that respect, no “coating” of any sort is needed. However, the starting and ending tags of thread would be vulnerable to be pulled loose from their securi
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Louis, The real Fuji Gurus, Jim Ising and Norman Miller, are at the Expo and may not be able to reply until they return. Give it time and hopefully one or both reply (I will follow your topic to learn myself). That said, I will offer my perspective. Whether using KR Concept, NGC, COF or any other guide placement method, it only seems logical for the reduction guides to form a bullseye. Minor
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Hunter, In reply to 2 of your other questions; 1. One does not HAVE to mount the “handle/reel seat” before the guides, but it is common practice to do so. I think it is easier to align the guides to the seat than inversely aligning the seat to the guides. Furthermore, having the real which will be used mounted to the seat with the line threaded through the temporarily positioned guides will faci
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Tom, While I may lack your infinite rod building wisdom and experience, I certainly recognize the virtually fool-proof guide train method of execution from Fuji and their KR Concept. It is probably safe to say that Fuji has more experience in our industry than all the rod builders within rodbuilding.org, COMBINED. With all due respect, your statement “You may be able to get that "bull's ey
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Come on, Phil, give me a break = that is a weak excuse! How can you be afraid of the same thing that you continually supply to so many others? It appears that you already have the platform of the test figured-out, so why not simply follow-through by conducting and finalizing the actual test? All of us are anxious to learn from your test of different line types at different temperatures which you
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I have never experienced any difficulty achieving a bull’s eye reduction train and which automatically affords and corresponds to the proper, progressive spacing that lends itself to and melds with the runners. The designers and engineers at Fuji and Pac Bay did a great job designing their KL-H and M guides with the proper height so I do not have to concern myself about it. Bull’s eye the reducti
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Hunter, Personally, I would use a Fuji KR Concept guide train of KL16H, KL8H, KL5.5M followed by KB / KT 5s out to a size 5 LG tip top. But if you want to use the Minima M guides (16, 8, 5), they are very good as well and I have used them in KR type layouts which performed nicely. Whichever way you go, I strongly suggest using a CERAMIC tip top like a Fuji LGAT. Especially with an UL, most will
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Leslie, There is extremely little epoxy on the outside of a CF grip. If you want a shiny surface rather than the original dull / matt finish, it is best to apply a coat of epoxy to the surface, allow it to FULLY cure, sand smooth and then coat with PG or similar. While structural laminating epoxy may be the best, thread epoxy will work although the flex additives may make sanding a tic more diff
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Daniel, If your friend would be using BRAID, even up to 30lb, the (KL?)20H would definitely be the best choice, even though the 5000 size reel is starting to get a bit large. But using 15-20lb MONO may throw you a curve-ball; the stiffer and more “spool memory” nature of mono may find the 25H a better choice. As Tom suggested, if you can afford the additional cost of extra guides and the time to
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Michael, #1 is it depends on the amount of force applied to the actual “bearing” and #2 the rotational speed of the “bearing”. Although we would all hope for a drag-screaming-run while offshore fishing, the rotational speed of the bearings is still relatively low, and certainly not (normally) sustained to easily build-up excessive heat within the bearing. Heat is the major contributing factor to
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Mr. Ewaniki, Allow me to correct your confusion; the issue has nothing to do with guides. Rather, your statement “Different lines: nylon, fluorocarbon, braid - are certain react differently to substantial changes in ambient temperature. More research has to be done on this topic to include spin-casters who cast in different latitudes with different average temperatures and during different seaso
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Mr Ewaniki, Thank you for enlightening me on the term “wag”; I have never heard it before. But all of us are still anxious and waiting for you to enlighten us with your test results of the casting difference between different line types at different temperatures. Although your previous track record may reflect you not supporting your claims with hard data facts as you often request of others, I
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Tom, It is well known that I am a Fuji fan. Nonetheless, Batson’s Alps and Forecast products are top-notch by anyone’s standards. I would certainly question the integrity of the supplier who did not deliver a product as described well before questioning a Baston product!!!
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When one gets right down to it, Dennis brought up arguably the most important consideration = bench height. After all, that is where we spend 95% of our time. The height will be different and dependant on each individual builder and his equipment but is crucial for comfort and avoiding nagging back pains. Dang, with such good replies, suggestions and ideas, I might have to remodel my shop! Nah,
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Chris, Excuse me if I lack your experience. I was simply looking at it logically; “Airflow out of a room will only keep it cleaner” = the airflow OUT of a room MUST be replaced by airflow INTO the room which causes airflow WITHIN the room. The exceptions would be if the inlet were right next to the outlet (which would not be very efficient) or if there were no inlet in which case the exhaust fan
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Mr. Ewaniki, Excuse my ignorance but “wag”?????
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With all due respect to Chris and while lighting and outlets benefit from abundance, too much airflow can be a bad thing by @#$%& up SETTLED dust and making it AIRBORNE. Although a 1000 CFM exhaust fan might be beneficial while cleaning house, I certainly would not use it while thread wrapping or finishing.
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