Excuse me, but I really do not understand what all the fuss is over CPM, whether it be Minutes, Milliseconds or Millenniums. Whatever scale is utilized, it will be a constant. It just so happens the scale of the programs used for measuring TNF is recorded in Cycles Per Minute. Mr. Danek’s findings of blanks typically exhibit a TNF of 400 - 600 Cycles Per Minute which seems to be a perfect resolut
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Sorry Herb, I bond the arbors into the seat as Norman and Tom W. and would not be surprised to learn that most others do the same. After set, I would think the arbor(s) could be reamed to less than .010in if needed simply because they are solidly mounted within the seat. But there is no correct or wrong way to do it; it is all personal preference.
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Dave, Sometimes it is better to recognize, accept, bite-the-bullet and just redo the problem rather than wasting time trying to cover it up and still end up with sub-acceptable results. Kinda like putting perfume on a pig. I obviously cannot see the affected rod so you have to make the determination. If it is a less expensive build, you can consider fishing it as is and learn from the booboo. Do
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Dave, It may be a shot in the dark, but I have a number of NOS vintage FG Conolon blanks that I will put up against any modern day offering. Have you got any numbers (length, butt / tip diameters, weight, {CCS would be awesome})? Every person I have built a rod for utilizing one of these historic blanks is blown-away with its performance. Heck, I’ll send you a few to “wiggle” and choose from if
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David, Don’t feel rained-on and alone! I have also wondered why ALL blank’s power ratings are not simply stated in grams, pennies, whatever. Apparently the fly guys have more clout than the other forms. But it has been like this for years and will never change. To me, it would be much more logical to measure ALL blanks by X amount of weight to deflect the tip 33.33% of its length; X would need t
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Another thank you to all the responders; with over 100 posts and almost 1500 views, it is obviously an interesting topic to many. I plead Urkle = did I do that? LOL I wonder if as much attention and debate has been given to “Rod Harmonics” since Dr. Hannerman gave us CCF? I am certainly unqualified to offer much in the way of the technical aspect of harmonics, vibration, tones and pitches, hence
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Mark, There are many on this forum who graciously offer their knowledge and assistance to many others who simply ask. It is unfortunate that modern society is gravitating away from simple yet deserved acknowledgement of those who offer that knowledge and assistance, more commonly known as a “thank you”. Your thank you here will be greatly appreciated and guarantee many more replies to your quest
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Tony, Remember back to the last time you used your factory rods; was the rear grip a perfect length or could it have been a bit shorter or longer? Only you can decide what the “proper” length is. There is no set “distance formula”. Only certain fishing techniques and personal preference influence the position of the seat. I probably prefer a longer rear grip than most; others may say it is too l
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I am certain that Mr. Danekl will have a much more enjoyable and enlightening experience with the trees than the rest of will have dealing with Mr. Ewaniki.
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We all need to do little things to keep ourselves and others around us amused or life can become a “reel” “drag”. My hat is off to the instigator and composer!!! VERY WELL DONE.
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David, One other thing I forgot to mention which is important with any machining operation; Speed and Feed. In your case, a higher speed with a slower feed will probably produce the best results.
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Overall, I am very pleased with the number of replies, contributions, suggestions, in depth analysis, and even opinions (lol) afforded by so many of you regarding “Blank Harmonics”. My initial quest was to discover what a “trained ear” hears and what the emitted “tone / pitch” means when a blank or rod is “rung”. While it may be a pre-technology, old-school practice, I was (and still am) intrigue
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David, Even a very stiff / rigid bit such as solid carbide may still deflect some over 8in. The cork itself may be inconsistent enough to persuade the bit off-center as well. A “brad point” or possibly a “Forstner” drill bit may help but you may have difficulty finding them in extended length. When I need a nice, crisp edged hole in cork, I use miniature (modlers) brass tubing sharpened on one e
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Chris, No, you do not need to apply finish to the ferrule wrap; the thread is what supplies the strength and the finish only keeps the thread from unraveling. That being said, be careful to not bump the wrap. It is possible the flexing of the blank could cause the wrap to unravel, but you should be OK. Spigot ferrules can be extremely difficult to produce a precisely identical taper, paramount
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David, Thank you for your contribution as well. I agree with you that when actually fishing a given rod, it is ALL about feel, or as you stated, “if you can't feel it, does it really make a diiference?” In that respect, my agreeing answer is no. When I am actually fishing, no thought is ever given to how long my rod is, if it is CF or FG, what the CCS or TNF might be, which guides are used or th
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Joseph, Oh good. I see now you have 2 requesting a link.
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Joseph, I like Tom’s suggestion and apparently you as well = expose the dweeb for what he is = a worm. Without knowing who the other person is, I am embarrassed for him. I am interested in what the other members have to say after exposing the low-life thief. Can you send me a link of the other post to my personal email? Thanks. Never mind; I see your email is hidden.
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Kent, I am pleased to have a “Tap Master”, “Rod Ringer” respond = thank you. You know, you could simply explain to me how you perform ringing a blank, what you hear, and what it means without going to such an extreme process of incorporating such sophisticated equipment to measure and produce data!!! LOL. Repeat, LOL. Wow, quite an undertaking and I am certainly interested in learning the result
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Joe, Thank you for your astute, knowledgeable and informative reply. You did a good job of relaying the information in an understandable manner. While there are a number of contributing variables involved which produce a higher or lower ring (longitudinal frequency) , the general consensus is that the higher the ring / tone / pitch = the more sensitive the blank is. The only stock of raw blanks
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Tim, Joe did an excellent job answering your question; I have nothing to add.
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Phil, Just as with CCS, CCF (including AA, IP, ERN) or Mr. Danek’s TNF, the data gained conducting those tests and the tone emitted by “rod ringing” are of little if any interest to Joe Blow angler / custom rod customer. Most of them could even care less what the tip and butt diameter of a blank is! But the information / data accessed is often used by the builder to choose and construct the best
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Tim, Thanks for the “SMH” explanation. You may not be the only veteran shaking their head at the rod ringing method; to be honest, my novice head is shaking a bit as well but I would still like to learn more before discounting, disregarding and discarding it; I haven’t been-there-done-that yet. There is some intriguing merit there that I would like to explore if I could only get some “rod ringer
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Peter, You have received very good advice above. I often employ Herb’s suggestion of using thin-wall (.014in) brass tubing to drill / punch holes in soft material like cork, foam, felt ect. You will need something to extract the cut-out piece from inside the brass tube; Since the brass tubing is designed to be telescoping, purchase the next size down in solid brass which will serve two functions
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Tim, Isn’t that a custom rod builder’s ultimate goal; to build a rod which catches more fish than other offerings? While there are certainly a host of other uncontrollable variables, ringing a blank may be one of them, the well-versed rod builder most likely has an edge over others who simply thread wrap guides onto a stick. I can’t imagine obtaining as much information as possibly being a bad t
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Thank you for the replies from Robert, John, Gary, Russell, and even Roger and Michael lol. The replies certainly added some fuel for thought. I am still trying to wrap my head around Robert’s comment “All things being equal, shortening the tuning fork doesn't change the tone, so much as dampen it”. I would think changing the length of the tines of a tuning would CERTAINLY change the tone. Gary o
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Actually, I was hoping for a more “seat of-the-pants” explanation.
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Touche Roger. Great reply and link. Now all we need is someone to step-up-to-the-plate and purchase one. With the hordes of money involved in custom rod building, there may be numerous takers lol.
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As the title implies, I am interested in learning more about the significance of the “tone” an individual blank emits when struck or tapped on its side or dropped on its butt. It is very intriguing to me after learning about it a few months ago here on this site; and it has been mentioned a few times since. Apparently it is nothing new = some responding veterans claim to have been using the proce
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Fred, While possibly not seeming significant to curtail your starting tag fuzzies, the solution may be as simple as introducing the thread onto the wrap at the proper angle. A little “negative” angle (opposite the wrapping direction) will assist each rotation packing tightly together, forcing cut tags to lie down rather than pop up between rotations. But don’t overdo the angle or the thread will
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Norman, Thanks for your respected, veteran insight. One would be hard-pressed to successfully argue with the findings of a major player such as Gudebrod and theirs would certainly carry more clout than my findings. Nonetheless, I have found present-day metallics (OK, admittedly only ProWrap) to be noticeably weaker (simply breaks easier / sooner) than the same size nylon (NCP if it matters). The
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