Jon, Simply for my own information, is the “scrim line” axily (spell check is not helping me) straight with the blank or angled / spiraled along the blank? I appreciate your reply.
Forum: rodboard

As I stated, Tom, my “tests and experience” was “unscientific”. You are correct that one has no idea how “fresh” an epoxy kit may be; and it certainly would have an impact on the results. My samples were purchased through the site sponsors to the left which should provide the most “consistent variable” for all of us here. The existing samples of CTS Crystal Coat, Flex Coat and Thread Master have
Forum: rodboard

Alex, Unfortunately, due to their chemical make-up, all epoxies will yellow; some faster or slower, some more so than others; the overwhelming amount of the yellowing is due to the hardener but the resin plays its role as well. The environmental factors that cause the yellowing are oxidation, moisture (to a small extent), and UV. Even if isolated from UV, the hardener will yellow in the bottle d
Forum: rodboard

Mike, There is a difference between purchasing a “rod-building-kit” and purchasing all the components separately = the KIT should be ready to assemble. Otherwise, what is the purpose or benefit of a KIT in the first place?!?!?! A 0.010 - 0.020in gap between the blank and grip might be acceptable, but 0.040in or greater seems excessive to me. It would be bad enough if the grips were smaller and r
Forum: rodboard

2X Rogers comments, although I only use 10lb PowerPro and don’t bother with the bead.
Forum: rodboard

I also use Norman’s tie-off method although I started long before meeting Norman or any of the rest of you. It simply seems to be the most logical, fool-proof, quickest, no thread nub method to tie off a wrap. I cannot imagine a benefit to pulling the tie-off tag all the way through and out of the wrap, distort the wrap with the tag to open a gap, very carefully cut the tag, and then repack / bur
Forum: rodboard

The Dr. Slick scissors that Norman suggested look very nice; just grab them and snip without having to fumble-around with putting one’s thumb and forefinger in finger loops.
Forum: rodboard

Alex, Vote # 3 for Decal Connection; if they cannot do it, you'll be hard pressed to find someone who does!
Forum: rodboard

Hunter, I do not understand why double-edge razor blades would be sharper than single-edge razor blades, but many rod builders consider and claim so. I do not like the inconvenience of taping off one side of a double-edge blade or breaking it in two, so I prefer single-edge blades. However, I order the “extra sharp” single-edge razor blades from McMaster Carr. An X-Acto knife with a #11 blade is
Forum: rodboard

Steve, As you mentioned, there are basically two ways to shape a grip; 1. Bond the all pieces onto a mandrel, chuck it into a lathe, turn (and sand) to the desired dimensions, remove from the mandrel, and taper bore to fit the blank, or 2. Ream the pieces to progressively fit onto the blank, bond to them to the blank, turn (and sand) to the desired dimensions. While it should be obvious that the
Forum: rodboard

Jon, I am assuming this is the rod build you mentioned a few days ago incorporating the All American Roller Guides for spiral wrapped rods. If a size 10 tube size is the smallest AA has to offer, that seems consistent with most tuna sticks = my 80lb Calstar has a tip size of 11 while my 100lb Seeker has a tip size of 14. May I suggest you verify the intended blank is capable of a tuna rod before
Forum: rodboard

Dave, Did you notice the “stains” / “greasy spots” BEFORE or AFTER mounting the reel seat? If BEFORE = it may just be simply a greasy residue but I would think isopropyl alcohol would remove it; acetone is the next best solvent (and safer than toluene ) but if that does not remove the stains, you will probably not be able to simply wipe then off. If AFTER, Michael is probably correct = you inadv
Forum: rodboard

Mark. I always have JB Weld (only the original) on hand in my shop = great stuff and it’s been around for decades! Hopefully it will suit your reamer building purpose well.
Forum: rodboard

Mr, Ewaniki, “Extensive wrapping, painting, and epoxying rod blanks draws attention to the builder's skill and the fact the rod was home-made, but unnecessary wrappings and adornment decrease the sensitivity of the rod, among other things. Trolling rods suffer the least from the results of purely decorative wrappings, fly rods probably suffer the most.” Show all of us your quantifiable data to s
Forum: rodboard

I could not have described them better = “muddle”, at least not for this site.
Forum: rodboard

Whether to prep a guide foot or not opens another Pandora’s box = an ongoing debate / personal preference. To set the record straight, I am referring to “dressing” the ramp of a guide foot, certainly not any major grinding. I am fully aware that even dressing a guide foot removes a bit of the surface of the toe of the guide which can expose the underlying material to rust easier, whether bare 304
Forum: rodboard

Sammy, Apparently you are referring to the section of blank between one guide to another rather than between the feet of a single, 2-foot guide (as in underwrap). There is absolutely no benefit in wrapping between the guides and in fact, is detrimental to the performance, even if barely noticeable on an 80lb rod. Additionally, it will become a nightmare to replace a guide down the road if requir
Forum: rodboard

Mark, It may be best to call them; if you do may I suggest you speak with Scott Stettler who performs all the testing of the product line. Please say hello for me. Of course, Tom is correct in that any type of reaming should be followed by blowing the part out with compressed air, but nonetheless the stories of grit scratching the blank remain. Those Ultimate Reamers are certainly nice but wa
Forum: rodboard

Andreas, I also appreciate a full flexing rod to increase my Fish Fighting Fun Factor for trout. I have discovered that FG is my preference and a vintage NOS Conolon blank utilizing modern components puts the experience over-the-top. Fast - Med Fast action but still bend nicely to the butt, within your lure weight, 6 -7ft, absolutely gorgeous dark brown weave pattern with a coat of PG, and you w
Forum: rodboard

Mark, I have read about making one’s own tapered reamers as you described with some sort of grit epoxied onto a piece of rod blank. I have also heard horror stories of a stray single piece of grit left inside the reamed piece scratching the blank as it is slid into position. Although I am a fabricator and prefer to make my own ANYTHING and the process seems quite easy, I have never bothered with
Forum: rodboard

To all, All American Roller Guides is healthy and still conducting business. All of their product lines are still available including the world's only rollers designed for spiral-wrapping. 100% American made right here in Tustin, California. Great product, great people.
Forum: rodboard

Jon, This is all news to me. Give me a little time and I will attempt to contact Steve and Laurie of All American Roller Guides to find out what’s going on. With the weekend upon us, it will have to wait until next week. I have built 2 spiral wrapped tuna sticks using their guides and thoroughly and absolutely LOVE THEM!!! A quality ( and certainly unique) product built right here in the USA by
Forum: rodboard

It is puzzling to me that Fuji would spend as much time, effort, resources, and money to develop specific reduction guide trains which automatically produce the perfect size and spacing; gee, go figure!
Forum: rodboard

Stan, There is no substitute for Norman’s experience with the KR Concept and Fuji’s research and development to produce it. I find it difficult to argue with such a respected industry leader as Fuji and the same goes for a respected veteran such as Norman. All of my ULs are KRC utilizing either Fuji KL-H, Minima M or Sea Guide HLG reduction guides in sizes 16, 8, 5.5 (or 5) and they all work bea
Forum: rodboard

Bruce, Sorry, I cannot help you, but others on this site may be able to. Good luck!
Forum: rodboard

Fred, Don’t feel rained on!!! I questioned the exact same thing when I first started building rods and I am certain others before me did as well. You are among the others who will undoubtedly continue to question guide ring sizes. In reality, the present system is really silly, not precise or an accurate description of what really matters, the ACTUAL ring size OPENING. It makes it difficult in
Forum: rodboard

Jim, I agree with Michael. While I am very guilty of always trying to “build a better mousetrap”, I also realize when it is better to accept the status quo, in this case products specifically designed and formulated for one purpose. I can control each step while fabricating a new design or redesigning a current product. But I have NO control over (or clue) what goes into the formulation of CP or
Forum: rodboard

David, You ask good questions that others, me included, may take-for-granted. For my spiral wraps, I have typically used a size 12 butt guide followed by 6s or 5s out to the tip. I suppose the size 12 is larger than required if one listens to Rich Forhan or Fuji’s suggestions and I can’t really argue. Since my butt guide is so offset, the larger ring (height as well) serves to provide a nicer ni
Forum: rodboard

David, Your spiral wrap question will certainly provide NUMEROUS replies, so many so that you may very well be overloaded with information. Keep an open-mind, read and understand each reply and develop your own conclusions as to how to build YOUR spiral wrapped rod. There may be many ways to “skin a cat”, but there are MORE ways to spiral wrap a rod!!! Some methods proclaim to be simpler / quick
Forum: rodboard

Again, thank you to all who have contributed to this topic of “Blank Harmonics”. Although I still have not received a definite answer to the original question of HOW to “ring a rod” or “bounce a blank”, WHAT to listen for , and WHAT the emitted tone signifies, the wealth of information, ideas, suggestions, and opinions regarding blank harmonics (vibrations / tones / oscillations = FREQUENCIES) ha
Forum: rodboard