Russell, Thank you for the reply. I have two 2-speed reels (an Avet and a Daiwa) but I am not concerned with the effort required to turn the handle; rather the inherent torque generated / induced TO THE ROD by turning the handle under 30lb of drag. I certainly agree, and use, a harness; foolish not to! I simply wanted to take the harness out of the equation so as not to dilute the torque effe
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Some people call it “a measurement of relative rod speed” and Dr. Hannerman called his CCF a measurement of “feel”. Actually, I think the best description is a measurement of the “frequency” since that IS what is being measured; the number of oscillations per a given amount of time = frequency. CCF added weight to the tip of the blank to slow the oscillations down enough to be counted with the na
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OK, here’s a good one; has anyone devised a method of eliminating, or at least reducing, the inherent reel cranking torque imposed on a casting rod? I’m referring to the likes of a heavy saltwater tuna rod, not a lighter freshwater bass rod. Possibly even for bringing-up a pound of lead and a couple of rockfish 300ft. Sure, shorter guides or, better yet, spiral wrapped guides significantly reduce
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Kevin, and anyone else for that matter, In addition to using the same diameter thread, especially when wrapping a tiger with at least 3 different threads running side-by-side, it is imperative to have equal tension on all of them. Thread will flatten-out on the blank with more tension = wider yet less height.
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If using pennies for the weight, I do as Tom suggested by using thin strips of cellophane tape to hold 10 pennies together. I also cut a few 1.5 X 1.5 X .5in blocks of aluminum and then drilled a progressively larger hole in the middle until they weighed exactly 50g (20 pennies). This way, one never has to count more than 9 individual pennies. It works for me. Mark B., It’s magic! Actually, CCS
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Leslie, While Spencer’s advice of “KISS” certainly has merit, you mentioned “Is there a simple way to get consistent results?” Consistent results rely upon consistent procedures. Make certain your “butt holding fixture” has the capability to hold either a bare blank or completed rod with grips BY 10% OF THE TOTAL LENGTH of the blank / rod. This includes adjustability to set a test subject for pe
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Michael, Dare I ask which Phil you were calling-out to? Ouch, I just felt a bunch of you slapping me!!!
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Alex, You are correct; Fuji size A is ~.003in while ProWrap size A is ~.004in. While it may be “only” .001in difference, that is 25% which is sizable. If all you are doing is making solid-color wraps, there is no problem. However, if you are inserting threads (adding and dropping threads) where they run side-by-side, using the SAME size thread will ultimately look better and will be easier to wr
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Bill, ?!?!? Obviously not me but I am inquisitive and will be following the replies. Sorry I cannot help.
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Leslie, Now here is a great topic to certainly generate a plethora of replies. While I have adopted a number of methods throughout the years, I will certainly be following this topic simply because I am here to learn. When I get hung-up, the first thing I try is a different angle; works some of the time, but not always. Second, I’ll try to “slap-bounce” the hook free, again it works some of the
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Phil, ?!?!?!?!? Again, consider changing dispensaries!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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When I got into rod wrapping ~ 7 years ago, I decided to build my own power wrapper simply because I am a fabricator and if I designed and constructed it myself, it would fit my requirements perfectly. I investigated just about all the commercially available wrappers, searching for the pros and cons of each to aid in my own design. Of all the commercially available units I inspected, the design o
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Thanks, Donald.
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Phil, Where did your reply come from??? It wasn't even close to answering the original question. Consider changing dispensaries.
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Phil, Thanks for your information. Roger, Thanks for your research and information as well. I cannot imagine my sanding generating 250*F. But it is good to know that a TiteBond glue joint can be disassembled with heat, similar to epoxy as I suspected.
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Alex, I totally agree with Phil; 1/4in vs 1/2in rings = more work, more epoxy = more weight. Are you certain that the “higher end” rods you mentioned are actually “higher end”? ~½ in wide cork rings are pretty-much the industry standard; what is to be gained from thinner rings?
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Daniel, Thank you for your reply and link as well. Such parallels the V-22, I-1 of RodMaker magazine’s article on “Resinous Wood Bath” although that article dealt more with “finishing” rather than “bonding”; but the same parameters would apply to both. Admittedly, I did not “wash my wood” prior to bonding and in retrospect, maybe I should have. Your observation may be the key to my woes. But tha
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Lance, Thank you for your reply, it is very much appreciated. While your point(s) are well-taken, I am confident (blind faith?) that all the 2-part epoxies designed for rod building are ultimately quite similar = only variations on the same theme. That said, they could indeed be different, but I cannot imagine to a large extent. The epoxies used in rod building are considered “low temp” = <
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Does anyone know if single-part TiteBond GLUE softens / weakens with heat as does 2-part Rod Bond EPOXY (and virtually all epoxies)? I am referring to both after they have FULLY dried / cured. Case-in-point, I book-matched the grain of this hardwood (don’t know if it qualifies as “exotic”) that I acquired, split lengthwise along the 6in to be grip. I inserted a .375in mandrel, chucked it into my
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Mark B., Understood and in your case agreed; a spinning rod is easier to cast for those less experienced with casting reels. Since this will basically be a boat rod, durability is probably of concern and a double foot guide is more robust than a single foot. Since it will be designed for casting, hopefully you can find tall enough double foot reduction guides without having to go oversized on th
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Mark, Remember that when selecting guides for a heavy offshore rod, it is not about the size of the fish but rather the amount of drag the reel can generate (and how much you are willing and are CAPABLE OF holding onto). Many guides from numerous manufacturers as well as the thread used to secure them to the blank, exceed the requirements actually required. Take your example of an 80lb tuna; the
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Definitely agree that frequent / constant repositioning of one’s grip (or should I say hold) helps immensely to keep the hole concentric. Of course, going slowly and checking often certainly aids as well. Even so, it is pretty difficult to keep a PERFECTLY concentric hole and in the grand scheme of things, being off a tad is undetectable to all but the most critical. If a perfectly concentric gr
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I find that I have more control keeping a cork grip concentric while remaining under power than by hand = to each his own. What works for one may not for another. One way or the other, when discovering what works for each individual, KEEP WITH IT!!!
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Michael, It is well known that I am a Fuji fan and rightfully so as their products are outstanding. I have never experienced a ceramic ring failure with any Fuji guide. That said, I would expect other modern, NAME BRAND guides would have secure ceramic rings as well. If you are looking for “insertless” guides, you will have to look for others than Fuji as all of theirs have some sort of ceramic
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Again, I’m not an authority on tigers by any means, but I cannot imagine achieving maximum effect with only distorting one of the layers of thread. There are a number of videos on tigers and many mention and acknowledge Scott Throop as the inventor; all of them (including Doc Ski and Bill Falconer) distort both layers. The first test tiger I made had too much thread tension to get a nice, pronoun
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Alex, If they are quite close to the same height for the same ring size, yes. I am unfamiliar with the SSRs.
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Robert, Oops! It has been quite a while since I made my last tiger wrap and just remembered that I also had 2 sacrificial threads rather than the 1 mentioned above.
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Thanks Jon.
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Robert, Hopefully you will receive replies by those more qualified than me as I have only made 5 tiger wraps. They really do create unique and interesting wrap which draws people in for closer inspection., especially if utilizing a thick “lens” (4-6 coats) between the layers. I tend to wrap anything with more tension than others and discovered, as you did as well, that it restricted the distort
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Hunter, I am confident that the “3ml” rule is simply intended for the masses to provide a margin of error. You are obviously very careful and precise with your ratios and mixing and have had no issues, so keep doing the same thing.
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