Al, Decisive length measurements are immaterial; no one here can stipulate a “perfect length” for your particular situation = test, test, test = there is NO magic number. The only “magic” is derived after testing and / or practical use. Sorry for not supplying a more definite answer, but hopefully you realize that is impossible. While opinions may get you close, hands-on will dial it all in; if
Forum: rodboard

Al, If it feels good to you, then go for it!!! That is what makes a custom just that, CUSTOM. Other’s opinions on proper grip length are just that = their opinions. Fish the rod and note how the grip length feels; if too short then lengthen it; if too long then shorten it. It really is as simple as that = whatever works for you is PERFECT!
Forum: rodboard

Beside personal preference and aesthetics, application is a huge factor in choosing which material is best suited for a particular build. And there are a plethora of other materials not mentioned, wood, birch bark, acrylic / plastic, leather, bull kelp and many others. Is lightness top priority? Comfort? Toughness? Grippy? Cleanability? Ease of fabrication? Is it in and out of rod holders? Or are
Forum: rodboard

Joel, With all due respect, I certainly have to disagree with you, but then, that’s what this forum is all about. If “If “wholesale” exists, it’s got to be for the volume buyers.” Is that so? Who stipulated that??? Under what pretense? “Otherwise, the result is increased retail prices, because everyone’s getting a discount.” Quite the contrary; lower initial costs of the builder = lower cost to
Forum: rodboard

Anyone new attempting to get into rod building as a source of revenue, even modest, will quickly learn that they CANNOT compete with the established veteran builders who buy wholesale; that LITTLE 20 - 40% discount makes a HUGE difference. Granted, for-the-fun-of-it, hobby-builders do not really deserve a discount and most of them readily accept the fact. But those sincere enough who actually go
Forum: rodboard

Leonard, I posed the same question on this forum 6-8 years ago in hopes of discovering the “magic” that the veterans used in choosing their blanks. While possibly intimidating at first, and it certainly does require a bit of time and effort, CCS is about the only game-in-town and can afford someone an extremely close match to another blank / rod. It is COMPARING blanks, not necessarily which one
Forum: rodboard

Robert is always a welcomed and valued wealth of (categorized) information.
Forum: rodboard

Tim, The mandrel is machined from a 1.25in diameter Acetal (Delrin) rod; 4* on each side = 8* included angle. While Acetal may not be the most slippery plastic, it certainly is one of the best for machining. McMaster Carr stocks it. I typically use CF / Aramid (Kevlar) hybrid woven sleeving (2 plies), but the Aramid makes it extremely difficult to cut and sand. May I suggest that you use straigh
Forum: rodboard

Tim, A “Tennessee Handle” (TH) is simply a consistent OD handle / grip with bulbed ends to keep the slip rings from sliding off. They can be any length desired but I have found 12 - 13in to be the best, all around length. It is mounted to the blank in 2 pieces so that the slip rings can be installed and after bonded to the blank, the bulbed ends retain the slip rings. The typical material employ
Forum: rodboard

Tim, While Tom’s suggestion is certainly valid, an easier yet possibly more versatile / effective answer may be the employment of a “Tennessee Handle” with PROPER tapered slip rings to secure the reel. Beside being the most comfortable, in-hand seat, one can easily switch between a spin or fly reel set-up, move the reel fore or aft for the desired “balance”, and more. I will elaborate further i
Forum: rodboard

Dess, While I have admittedly not tried “Krylon Fusion” rattle cans for painting a blank, off-the-shelf, generally available products often produce less desirable, optimum results than their higher-priced “equivalent” counterparts. While certainly a bit pricey, Tom’s suggestion of SprayMax may be the best, somewhat easily obtainable product available without taking your blank to a quality, bona
Forum: rodboard

Ernie, You asked a question and a number of respected builders have taken the time to reply. Give them the common courtesy and common decency to thank them rather than criticize their replies. Your attitude is akin to Phil Ewaniki’s = if you demand hard numbers and facts, perform the test yourself and post your results for everyone's enlightenment. And YES, different guide trains have been buil
Forum: rodboard

mike, The first place I looked, Batson Enterprises, has a 1.06in OD X .35in ID X 13in long straight CF foregrip #FCRG13-350. You may be correct that there are probably more FW CF grips than seen on the ocean. Maybe the same scenario as the nonexistence of offshore spiral wrapped rods out here in SoCal = stubbornness. I have never seen a SW CF grip out here and the only spiral wrapped rod I’ve
Forum: rodboard

mike, A heat gun as a “nuclear option” may be stretching it, but at least you got my point. As you, I also find it strange that the FG rod was the only one which “took a set”; but as I’ve said many times,”I am here to learn”. While CF is certainly stiffer than FG, nonetheless they are both held within the same matrix = plastic. I would suppose that a FG FRP structure MAY be more susceptible to h
Forum: rodboard

Brian, The only “trap” to avoid is spending too much on the blank and components! Too many fly anglers assume that the more they spend on equipment, the better they will fish; such is hardly the case. That is not to say that the cheapie $40 KMart rod will perform as well as a $400 St Croix, but a little research and common sense can save huge amounts of money when purchasing fly equipment. I do
Forum: rodboard

Robert, Yet again, you have proven to be a perpetual vast resource to this forum; we all owe you our sincere appreciation and gratitude. Do you dream numbers lol? The V26/1 RM article is very recent and which I’ve read. As is the 21/3 article which I mentioned in my reply which is (I think) a reprint of the original 5/6 article. The only one of your categorized issues which I have not read is M
Forum: rodboard

While there may be differences between East and West coast tuna fishing, the angler is, nonetheless, holding the rod against a large and angry fish, unless using a fighting chair or rod holder. Simple lever mechanics indicate that a shorter lever (the rod) will reduce the leverage and hence the force the fish will be able to apply to the angler. Personally, I see no benefit of employing a rod lon
Forum: rodboard

mike, The vast majority of composite structures, including rod blanks, are simply FRP (Fiber Reinforced Plastic). The opportune word here is Plastic and plastics typically soften with heat. Your rod was subjected to as much as 150*F, possibly more, inside your car while a bend was imposed on it = a perfect environment to create the “permanent” bend which occurred. While it is certainly possible
Forum: rodboard

Mitchell, If you can land a 200lb tuna in 15 minutes, you are certainly a better man than me!!! Without further information, your question of brand / model is impossible to answer; stand-up rod, rail rod, fighting chair / rod holder rod?.?. Will a harness be involved? If so, where is the “butt cup” positioned in relation to your belt line? Those are just starter questions before selecting a bla
Forum: rodboard

Mitchell, The old-school Sabres have slayed more than their fair share of tuna. Likewise with Calstar, Seeker, Thrasher and more. Those old-school blanks were E-glass, and although possibly cutting-edge technology back then, I believe that nothing has changed since. Yes, CF is the modern day wonder fabric and rightfully so with its unparalleled stiffness equating to smaller diameters and less we
Forum: rodboard

Tom, As you, I have gained a WEALTH of information from this site, graciously and generously offered by very experienced and well respected veteran rod builders. The information, ideas, suggestions, (and even opinions) stem from a very large and varied base of people from different walks-of-life with a common interest and passion = rod building. Such a varied base provides many methods and techn
Forum: rodboard

Al, Simply put, listen to, acknowledge and adopt Norman’s suggestions!
Forum: rodboard

Robert, Typically viewed, the present day USA American flag has a blue background with 50 stars in the upper, left corner with 13 alternating red and white stripes (7 - red, 6 - white = 13, the original number of states within the U.S.) below and to the right of the blue background containing the stars (50 = the 50 states). While I am quite certain that the number of stripes has always been 13,
Forum: rodboard

Thanks david and Bill.
Forum: rodboard

Phil, Thanks for the insight. Norman, Thanks for the link and info = interesting. Nonetheless, I would still like to view particulars rather than perceived premonitions or promos. Does anyone else have any hands-on experience with linen-fabric based rods / blanks? As stated earlier, I’m here to learn.
Forum: rodboard

david and Phil, I was unaware that such an animal even exists! I am very intrigued as to what the advantages are. If either of you care to elaborate = I am here to learn.
Forum: rodboard

Francis, While Norman is certainly correct (as usual) regarding “NCP”/ “NOCP” thread versus regular “Nylon” thread, you may possibly still be confused as to which to use for a particular wrap; especially white thread over a black blank. Although “color-fast” NCP or NOCP thread is treated to minimize color change after finish application, such extreme color difference will still darken the white
Forum: rodboard

Matt, Whether to install a butt extension “tube” over or inside the butt of the blank is a 2-sided sword. While a larger extension tube over the blank is inherently stronger, that stronger section concentrates more stress on the blank itself where the extension ends. Conversely, a smaller extension tube inserted into the blank will inherently be weaker but puts less stress on the blank itself. K
Forum: rodboard

I stand corrected. After reading Norman and Michael’s reply to my “16 - 20cc” batch of epoxy, I realized that is the size of the batch I mixed for a double foot saltwater rod I just completed. The important thing is that Mike solved his issue by simply applying more finish.
Forum: rodboard

Mike, I agree with Phil in that “looks like crap” does not precisely describe your dissatisfaction with the appearance of the thread finish. From the rest of your description, it certainly sounds like you applied the finish too sparingly; not necessarily a bad thing other than risking not totally filling the tunnels on either side of the guide foot. A total of 6cc is a rather, relatively small a
Forum: rodboard