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Current Page: 4 of 39
Results 91 - 120 of 1164
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, The UHMW would be a great idea to reduce friction. Just remember to use it on one side and aluminum on the other, not plastic-to-plastic or metal-to-metal. McMaster Carr has UHMW channels for about $3.00 per foot, PVC for a little less, even PTFE but for considerably more. If you can adapt the channel to your system, it would reduce or eliminate the machining. Hope this helps.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Todd, I did not address your question regarding FG blank suggestions in my first reply because I cannot really help you very much. I purchased quite a few vintage NOS Conolon FG blanks in various lengths and powers in a sanded but not finished condition. They are absolutely gorgeous after a coat of PG, afford an awesome Fish-Fighting-Fun-Factor, all while owning and fishing a 50-60 year old piec
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, You must live in the southern hemisphere of planet Earth; your picture is upside down for us in the northern hemisphere LOL. It looks very nice and the addition of the ability to move the wrapper on the Y axis seems to be a good idea and hopefully will prove to be beneficial. Good job! The fabrication looks very clean, as does the surrounding area; now get busy building rods and clutter
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Todd, Keep an open mind when trying your new FG trout rod; they are different than CF rods. Many will state FG is “sloppy-feeling” but I refer to it as full-flexing and thoroughly enjoy it for both casting light lures and fighting Sierra trout using UL equipment. It seems everyone has become spoiled with the attributes of CF and I certainly will not argue; CF truly is a wonder fabric for a wide
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Adding to Tony’s suggestion of shrink tubing from McMaster-Carr, they also have clear shrink tubing. I have used it in lieu of a butt cap to protect the end of the grip yet allow the hardwood, birch bark, cork or whatever to be seen. I also used it to protect the 16in hickory handle of a rebuilt, split cane offshore trolling rod.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael S., If an additional coat is necessary, most epoxies will benefit if applied just before or after the “no fingerprint” stage of cure of the first to produce a “chemical” bond between the two. Since most epoxies require a number of days to fully cure (unless post cured at an elevated temperature), additional coats 2-5 days later can be applied and still achieve a chemical bond, just not a
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Barry, Tom’s estimate of approximately 3% shrinkage in length is probably fairly accurate in general; but take into account that the more loose-fitting a sleeve is (having to shrink more) the more pronounced the shrinkage in length will be as well. I incorporate X-Flock shrink tubing on most of my saltwater builds; if I cannot install the reel seat over the end of the shrink, I cut a champher/re
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
With so many mandatory shut-downs affecting Non-Essential businesses, which of this site’s sponsors/vendors are still able to operate? We will all get through this. BE SAFE, HEALTHY AND HAPPY!!!
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks, Mick.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks, Bill.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks, Herb.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks Norman and Ron. I have never given thought to mounting anything other than a fly reel at the butt of the rod = interesting. I want to be just like you guys when I grow up.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Phil Ew. and Jake, Thank you for your contributions as well. What seems so intriguing to me for thread wraps may be common-place for other applications. As Norman and both Phils mentioned, there may be little to be gained other than the knowledge of an additional method to tie-off a wrap. I suppose if it were better, easier and faster, everyone would employ it. Thank you to all for taking the t
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Adam, What is the necessity of removing the wooden arbor? Can’t it simply be left in place and reused?
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Spenser, Please excuse my ignorance, but what is a “Skagit style” grip?
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Albert, I am a big fan of Fuji in general, KL-H spinning guides in particular for light builds. Consider KL-16H, KL-8H, KL-6M, KL-5.5L for the “fast choke” reduction train followed by two KBs and the rest of the runners KTs of your chosen size with a LG tip top. Go as small as you are comfortable with to reduce weight toward the tip. Consider having at least 12 guides on hand for the 10ft rod an
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks, Norman. I was unfamiliar with the Rizzuto knot until looking it up after your post. While I have always used a FG knot for saltwater use, after the main FG part of the knot I have simply tied two-half-hitches with the braid tag over both the braid main line and mono/fluoro tag, cut the mono tag close and then two or three half hitches over just the braid main line. Although I have never h
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thank you for the prompt replies. Donald, I have experimented with the Super Glue route but it is more trouble and time than a pull through loop. But Super Glue used for a stand-alone single thread trim band works awesome! Norman and Phil, that is the video I watched previously = thanks. I had not thought of it before, but as Phil mentioned, the method would certainly be performed easier OFF a
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Do any of you know how to tie-off a thread wrap WITHOUT using a pull-through loop? I watched a video of a rod builder who ended his thread wraps WITHOUT a pull-through loop. I am fairly certain I learned of the video on this site. My searches have been unsuccessful in relocating that video. The method involved reverse wrapping the thread, of some sorts, a few rotations but the video did not show
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Yet another hooked on rod building.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Tom, I doubt you are doing anything incorrectly while applying thread finish; each finish requires a bit of a learning-curve to get comfortable with its own properties and end-results. BASICALLY, high-build thread finishes enable a single coat to be applied but may not level/flow out as well as regular or light counterparts. I typically use the light versions to keep the overall weight down on
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
David, Logically, it is safe to say that a single piece rod will outperform its sister multi-piece rod, even if employing the widely-accepted, CAD CAM designed, wazoo tip-over-butt ferrules. That being said, transportation, storage and other factors can dictate a compromise is required. Oddly enough, Robert and I are opposite in our thinking; my lighter trout stuff is virtually all multi-piece w
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Mark Talmo
Herb, In FlexCoat’s defense, not every rod builder has a power wrapper and those who do will find that attempting to install a three of four jaw chuck requires purchasing an upgraded headstock which will accept the chuck along with appropriate pulleys and belts and miscellaneous other hardware to make it all work. I recently upgraded my original, self-built power wrapper to include a Taig heads
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Herb, I agree that the FlexCoat chucks, slip-clutches included, work very well, although as you mentioned, the hole in the thin rubber faceplate may not seem to be centered precisely. While it is usually not of much concern, when I do need concentricity, I have been able to push down on the high side of the installed blank until it is pretty dang close. This leads me to believe that even if the
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
For tip tops mounted to rods of virtually any pound-class, my apprentice (I’d like to believe I have graduated from novice/newbie status) opinion is PROPER tip top/ferrule adhesive (hot melt) is the ultimately preferred method for at least two reasons; 1.) From a strength perspective, it is not as though a 300lb fish is exerting 300lb of force directly attempting to pull the tip top off the blank
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, So there you have it; Roger answered with his infinite electronical knowledge. He also has great sources for new and used electrical components including motors, speed controllers and is more than savvy to know which components will work the best for any given application. As Roger, my Dad is a retired EE and I absorbed a basic knowledge of things electrical while growing-up; just enoug
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, It is my understanding the sewing type motors used with most power wappers are 110 (120) VAC and will not reverse direction by reversing the wires (polarity); you need a DC motor to reverse the direction by reversing the wires (polarity). Roger Wilson is the one to contact if he does not reply to this topic, which I am quite certain, he will.
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Roger is a very talented man in general and electronics in particular. On top of that, he is just plain ol’ nice. His generosity and knowledge has helped many, me included. You are the best, Roger!!!
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Mike, If the next ½ size smaller tip top is too small, then the one you have is perfect! There will be the correct clearance between the tip top and blank to avoid wiping all the hot-melt off as the tip top is slid into position.
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Will, Since we have been in contact off-site, there is no need for further comment here.
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 4 of 39

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