I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

ICRBE 2020
EXPO ON FACEBOOK
CCS Database
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
BRC Rods
Cork Specialties LLC
CRB
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
CTS New Zealand
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hitena USA
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mickels Custom Rods
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
REC Components
ReelSeatBlanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Rod Builders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Blog
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Tackleworks
The Rod Room
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast


Current Page: 5 of 40
Results 121 - 150 of 1199
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Albert, I rarely use nylon thread in favor of NCP. I also rarely use CP. I do slightly dress the tip of guide feet to produce a smother, less abrupt ramp, admittedly against the advice of many including Jim Ising of AR and Fuji. Since I use NCP thread, the color (difference) of the dressed foot is no issue. I have experienced permanent markers such as Marks-A-Lot may bleed a bit when coated with
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Paul, You are correct in that the benefits of a spiral wrapped rod will not be as pronounced on a lighter rod such as you are building. You are also correct that it will not hurt anything. If you decide on the spiral, I agree with you in liking to keep the line off the blank. But you do not need a 90* bumper guide to do so and one will hold the line unnecessarily far away from the blank (especi
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thank you for the replies thus far. I had not really considered self gratification as an “aspect” but many of you have and that is certainly OK. I also obtain immense satisfaction and gratification from rod building and fabricating equipment to do so as well. John D. was probably the most honest and I concur “… it kind of puffs my ego…” By the way John, touché on your last remark and fell free to
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Albert, I am hesitant to reply as I do not have any concise answers for your situation with some of the same batch of CC responding well and one not. From your very thorough explanation, I conclude the CC was not set well enough to be sanded, hence an unsatisfactory over-coated end result. CC inherently takes much longer to set and cure than other, more common epoxies. If the 320 you used caused
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
With the monotony of staying at home to practice social distancing and to change-up the typical topics on our site, allow me to offer what hopefully will be a little fun for all. WHAT ARE THE MOST STAND-OUT, PROFOUND ASPECTS OF RODBUILDING YOU HAVE ENCOUNTERED? “Aspect” is wide open, whether a material, method, technique, tool = whatever. For me; 1.) Spiral Wraps. I had never heard of, let alo
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, The UHMW would be a great idea to reduce friction. Just remember to use it on one side and aluminum on the other, not plastic-to-plastic or metal-to-metal. McMaster Carr has UHMW channels for about $3.00 per foot, PVC for a little less, even PTFE but for considerably more. If you can adapt the channel to your system, it would reduce or eliminate the machining. Hope this helps.
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Todd, I did not address your question regarding FG blank suggestions in my first reply because I cannot really help you very much. I purchased quite a few vintage NOS Conolon FG blanks in various lengths and powers in a sanded but not finished condition. They are absolutely gorgeous after a coat of PG, afford an awesome Fish-Fighting-Fun-Factor, all while owning and fishing a 50-60 year old piec
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, You must live in the southern hemisphere of planet Earth; your picture is upside down for us in the northern hemisphere LOL. It looks very nice and the addition of the ability to move the wrapper on the Y axis seems to be a good idea and hopefully will prove to be beneficial. Good job! The fabrication looks very clean, as does the surrounding area; now get busy building rods and clutter
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Todd, Keep an open mind when trying your new FG trout rod; they are different than CF rods. Many will state FG is “sloppy-feeling” but I refer to it as full-flexing and thoroughly enjoy it for both casting light lures and fighting Sierra trout using UL equipment. It seems everyone has become spoiled with the attributes of CF and I certainly will not argue; CF truly is a wonder fabric for a wide
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Adding to Tony’s suggestion of shrink tubing from McMaster-Carr, they also have clear shrink tubing. I have used it in lieu of a butt cap to protect the end of the grip yet allow the hardwood, birch bark, cork or whatever to be seen. I also used it to protect the 16in hickory handle of a rebuilt, split cane offshore trolling rod.
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael S., If an additional coat is necessary, most epoxies will benefit if applied just before or after the “no fingerprint” stage of cure of the first to produce a “chemical” bond between the two. Since most epoxies require a number of days to fully cure (unless post cured at an elevated temperature), additional coats 2-5 days later can be applied and still achieve a chemical bond, just not a
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Barry, Tom’s estimate of approximately 3% shrinkage in length is probably fairly accurate in general; but take into account that the more loose-fitting a sleeve is (having to shrink more) the more pronounced the shrinkage in length will be as well. I incorporate X-Flock shrink tubing on most of my saltwater builds; if I cannot install the reel seat over the end of the shrink, I cut a champher/re
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
With so many mandatory shut-downs affecting Non-Essential businesses, which of this site’s sponsors/vendors are still able to operate? We will all get through this. BE SAFE, HEALTHY AND HAPPY!!!
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks, Mick.
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks, Bill.
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks, Herb.
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks Norman and Ron. I have never given thought to mounting anything other than a fly reel at the butt of the rod = interesting. I want to be just like you guys when I grow up.
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Phil Ew. and Jake, Thank you for your contributions as well. What seems so intriguing to me for thread wraps may be common-place for other applications. As Norman and both Phils mentioned, there may be little to be gained other than the knowledge of an additional method to tie-off a wrap. I suppose if it were better, easier and faster, everyone would employ it. Thank you to all for taking the t
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Adam, What is the necessity of removing the wooden arbor? Can’t it simply be left in place and reused?
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Spenser, Please excuse my ignorance, but what is a “Skagit style” grip?
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Albert, I am a big fan of Fuji in general, KL-H spinning guides in particular for light builds. Consider KL-16H, KL-8H, KL-6M, KL-5.5L for the “fast choke” reduction train followed by two KBs and the rest of the runners KTs of your chosen size with a LG tip top. Go as small as you are comfortable with to reduce weight toward the tip. Consider having at least 12 guides on hand for the 10ft rod an
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thanks, Norman. I was unfamiliar with the Rizzuto knot until looking it up after your post. While I have always used a FG knot for saltwater use, after the main FG part of the knot I have simply tied two-half-hitches with the braid tag over both the braid main line and mono/fluoro tag, cut the mono tag close and then two or three half hitches over just the braid main line. Although I have never h
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thank you for the prompt replies. Donald, I have experimented with the Super Glue route but it is more trouble and time than a pull through loop. But Super Glue used for a stand-alone single thread trim band works awesome! Norman and Phil, that is the video I watched previously = thanks. I had not thought of it before, but as Phil mentioned, the method would certainly be performed easier OFF a
Forum: rodboard
5 months ago
Mark Talmo
Do any of you know how to tie-off a thread wrap WITHOUT using a pull-through loop? I watched a video of a rod builder who ended his thread wraps WITHOUT a pull-through loop. I am fairly certain I learned of the video on this site. My searches have been unsuccessful in relocating that video. The method involved reverse wrapping the thread, of some sorts, a few rotations but the video did not show
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Mark Talmo
Yet another hooked on rod building.
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Mark Talmo
Tom, I doubt you are doing anything incorrectly while applying thread finish; each finish requires a bit of a learning-curve to get comfortable with its own properties and end-results. BASICALLY, high-build thread finishes enable a single coat to be applied but may not level/flow out as well as regular or light counterparts. I typically use the light versions to keep the overall weight down on
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Mark Talmo
David, Logically, it is safe to say that a single piece rod will outperform its sister multi-piece rod, even if employing the widely-accepted, CAD CAM designed, wazoo tip-over-butt ferrules. That being said, transportation, storage and other factors can dictate a compromise is required. Oddly enough, Robert and I are opposite in our thinking; my lighter trout stuff is virtually all multi-piece w
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Mark Talmo
Herb, In FlexCoat’s defense, not every rod builder has a power wrapper and those who do will find that attempting to install a three of four jaw chuck requires purchasing an upgraded headstock which will accept the chuck along with appropriate pulleys and belts and miscellaneous other hardware to make it all work. I recently upgraded my original, self-built power wrapper to include a Taig heads
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Mark Talmo
Herb, I agree that the FlexCoat chucks, slip-clutches included, work very well, although as you mentioned, the hole in the thin rubber faceplate may not seem to be centered precisely. While it is usually not of much concern, when I do need concentricity, I have been able to push down on the high side of the installed blank until it is pretty dang close. This leads me to believe that even if the
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Mark Talmo
For tip tops mounted to rods of virtually any pound-class, my apprentice (I’d like to believe I have graduated from novice/newbie status) opinion is PROPER tip top/ferrule adhesive (hot melt) is the ultimately preferred method for at least two reasons; 1.) From a strength perspective, it is not as though a 300lb fish is exerting 300lb of force directly attempting to pull the tip top off the blank
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 5 of 40

Webmaster