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Current Page: 3 of 39
Results 61 - 90 of 1159
2 months ago
Mark Talmo
Anthony, My U40 Rod Bond resin was crystallized when I received it; I just thought that was the way it was. While mixing with the hardener, it smoothed out fine due to the chemical thermal reaction as well as the mechanical thermal reaction of the mixing itself.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Richard, I hope you get a lot of replies so I can learn as well. I’ve been looking for quite a while to find a 7ft UL telescopic blank to no avail. Can any of you steer Richard and me in the correct direction?
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Mick, Be prepared for a lot of personal preferences. When getting right down to it, all of the common big name brands such as Winthrop, Aftco, Stuart are all good, reliable products. I have recently become very fond of All American Roller Guides but have only used with their @#$%& series for spiral-wrapped roller guides, the only such rollers in existence. They are excellent quality and persona
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, It is always easier to understand one’s own description than from someone else. Sorry if I was confusing. The method is simply adding and dropping threads just as if inserting an inlay thread and/or changing colors in the middle of a base wrap. But then, there may be other methods for that as well. The only difference is adding the second color (or base color) after only a few rotations
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Well, the overwhelming majority use Mike’s method and that is certainly fine; use what you are comfortable with and gets the job done. I suppose that I am so used to adding and dropping threads in the middle of wraps it just seems second-nature to use it for the trim band as well. None the less, I am surprised NO ONE ELSE does it that way.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Herb and ben (again), Thanks for simplifying things for me!?!?!?
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Travis, I am thoroughly impressed you have already purchased nickel/titanium wire; I don’t know if it is the same alloy as the Recoils but that really does not matter. You are a better man than me; where did you find it?
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Travis, Such a noble idea/desire deserves further exploration! All American Roller Guides are just that; fabricated by the owner Steve and his wife in Tustin, CA but then you are probably not looking for rollers. While I realize you are looking for American-made components to purchase, what rod would be more custom than one with builder fabricated guides and reel seat? The reel seat is easy = T
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Herb and ben, I am jealous of those who easily get hundreds of dollars for a custom rod with simple wraps. I find potential customer squawking about the price if I try to make $50.00 labor for a rod which requires eight hours on the guide wraps alone.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Mike’s method will certainly work as well. Since I had not thought or heard of it, I tried it a half dozen times with good results. Two things were observed though; the trim thread has to bend 90* when starting to wrap around the blank and even with twisting the thread tighter, could leave a slight puffy spot just as it appears from under the main wrap (possibly paying attention to the direction
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael and others, My guide wraps tend to be a bit more involved with trim bands, inlays, modified vine leafs, open spirals and such because I rarely do butt wraps but like the subtle elegance afforded in the other threadwork. While obviously requiring more time than a single color, plain wrap, after a little practice they can be included with only a couple minutes of additional time. I do not
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Carl, Consider investigating the FG ferrule system I developed before proceeding. Search “CARL” (Constant Arc Rod Link) in the forum and photo sections. Contact me with further questions.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Steve, Thank you for taking the time to offer all of us your excellent reply. While technology is required for the advancement of our world, all too often it eliminates or forgets the craftsmanship of yesteryear. I appreciate the beauty and rock-solid performance of almost anything hand-crafted versus cheap things with designed-in planned-obsolescence spit out by machines by the thousands. Thing
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thank you for the on-going replies. I would like to hear from the veterans as well, especially concerning the transition from bamboo-to-FG-to-CF. Don’t be shy, let’s all have some informative fun!
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Taso, For such circumstances, I usually and simply face the end of the barrel/bushing with thread finish, usually with an appropriate pigment but not required. It may require more than one application but leaves a nice, comfortable radius ramp between the blank and barrel.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Scott, You were indeed lucky to retrieve the rod! I suspect many rods will float if the ends are sealed to trap air inside. I also suspect after installing a reel, most will find bottom of the body of water in which it was dropped. I have read one article in RM concerning rod floatation devices which prompted brief investigation else ware but none found seemed appealing from a practical perspect
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Is that why I experience so much trouble putting 40lb mono on my 750 UL spinning reel?
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Todd, Are you still with us?
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Albert, Coming from the structural composite industry, we almost bathed in acetone and used it to de-contaminize surfaces for subsequent epoxy/composite application. However, for whatever reason, such may not be the case within rod building. I have listened to, recognized and adopted the procedures of Tom, Roger, Norman and others to only use an acetone wipe-down just prior to the application of
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Paul, You are a good listener and seem to have taken all suggestions and advice to have all your bases covered. One thing though; you are still referring to your KTs as TKBSG5 rather than TKTSG5!!! Don’t make the mistake when ordering!!! Good luck. Many of us would appreciate an update after your build is completed. Please keep us posted.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Albert, I rarely use nylon thread in favor of NCP. I also rarely use CP. I do slightly dress the tip of guide feet to produce a smother, less abrupt ramp, admittedly against the advice of many including Jim Ising of AR and Fuji. Since I use NCP thread, the color (difference) of the dressed foot is no issue. I have experienced permanent markers such as Marks-A-Lot may bleed a bit when coated with
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Paul, You are correct in that the benefits of a spiral wrapped rod will not be as pronounced on a lighter rod such as you are building. You are also correct that it will not hurt anything. If you decide on the spiral, I agree with you in liking to keep the line off the blank. But you do not need a 90* bumper guide to do so and one will hold the line unnecessarily far away from the blank (especi
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Thank you for the replies thus far. I had not really considered self gratification as an “aspect” but many of you have and that is certainly OK. I also obtain immense satisfaction and gratification from rod building and fabricating equipment to do so as well. John D. was probably the most honest and I concur “… it kind of puffs my ego…” By the way John, touché on your last remark and fell free to
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Albert, I am hesitant to reply as I do not have any concise answers for your situation with some of the same batch of CC responding well and one not. From your very thorough explanation, I conclude the CC was not set well enough to be sanded, hence an unsatisfactory over-coated end result. CC inherently takes much longer to set and cure than other, more common epoxies. If the 320 you used caused
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
With the monotony of staying at home to practice social distancing and to change-up the typical topics on our site, allow me to offer what hopefully will be a little fun for all. WHAT ARE THE MOST STAND-OUT, PROFOUND ASPECTS OF RODBUILDING YOU HAVE ENCOUNTERED? “Aspect” is wide open, whether a material, method, technique, tool = whatever. For me; 1.) Spiral Wraps. I had never heard of, let alo
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, The UHMW would be a great idea to reduce friction. Just remember to use it on one side and aluminum on the other, not plastic-to-plastic or metal-to-metal. McMaster Carr has UHMW channels for about $3.00 per foot, PVC for a little less, even PTFE but for considerably more. If you can adapt the channel to your system, it would reduce or eliminate the machining. Hope this helps.
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Todd, I did not address your question regarding FG blank suggestions in my first reply because I cannot really help you very much. I purchased quite a few vintage NOS Conolon FG blanks in various lengths and powers in a sanded but not finished condition. They are absolutely gorgeous after a coat of PG, afford an awesome Fish-Fighting-Fun-Factor, all while owning and fishing a 50-60 year old piec
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Michael, You must live in the southern hemisphere of planet Earth; your picture is upside down for us in the northern hemisphere LOL. It looks very nice and the addition of the ability to move the wrapper on the Y axis seems to be a good idea and hopefully will prove to be beneficial. Good job! The fabrication looks very clean, as does the surrounding area; now get busy building rods and clutter
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Todd, Keep an open mind when trying your new FG trout rod; they are different than CF rods. Many will state FG is “sloppy-feeling” but I refer to it as full-flexing and thoroughly enjoy it for both casting light lures and fighting Sierra trout using UL equipment. It seems everyone has become spoiled with the attributes of CF and I certainly will not argue; CF truly is a wonder fabric for a wide
Forum: rodboard
3 months ago
Mark Talmo
Adding to Tony’s suggestion of shrink tubing from McMaster-Carr, they also have clear shrink tubing. I have used it in lieu of a butt cap to protect the end of the grip yet allow the hardwood, birch bark, cork or whatever to be seen. I also used it to protect the 16in hickory handle of a rebuilt, split cane offshore trolling rod.
Forum: rodboard
Current Page: 3 of 39

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