As the title implies, there is a method to tie-off a thread wrap without the necessity of a pull-through loop. If you are doubtful, so was I until actually seeing the video of it! I saw a short video of a rod builder demonstrating to a dozen onlookers how to tie-off a wrap WITHOUT a pull-through loop!!! Everyone in attendance gasped with amazement. I watched that video upteen gillion times but co
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Rick, Thank you very much for your informative reply. It is appreciated by all when a manufacturer takes the time to address issues personally. I have used Seaguides on a number of builds and consider them to be of very high quality and appearance. Your customer service and shipping is top notch as well.
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Thank you for the additional replies. Herb, That helps and is basically what I have been doing. But still… Michael, I certainly line-up all my “lock-overs” in the most inconspicuous location around the rod; out-of-sight = out-of-mind. But still… Chris, While it would certainly not create a bulge in the main wrap, I agree with your mention of the tag not being very secure if pulled under
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Tom, Thank you for replying as well. I have zero problems concealing the end of the tag because I insert my pull-through early, pull the tag until just secured under the main wrap, snip it off on the OUTSIDE of the main wrap, and then when the pull-through is pulled under the main wrap, the tag disappears underneath somewhere between the point of entry and exit; no second trimming of the tag req
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Chris, Thanks for the reply. Been there / done that; it helps but only marginally. I realize and admit that I may be splitting hairs here, but then, that seems to be the norm for us rod builders all too often lol.
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As the title implies, I am seeking to learn of a method / technique to eliminate, or at least reduce, the bulge in a thread wrap caused by the underlying tag end when starting or ending a wrap, or even when adding or dropping threads within a wrap. It is especially noticeable when multiple inlays are within a short distance of each other. While obviously a bit unsightly, I have just considered it
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Marc, While admittedly a Fuji proponent, when seeking the lightest guide train, I like the PacBay Minima M reduction guides (SS or Ti frame w/SS ring). Set them up as per KR Concept. Although the Minima F runners may be a half-tic lighter than the Fuji KBs / KTs, I like the Fujis better. One way or the other, I always use a Fuji LG tip top on my ULs.
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Matt, Due to the manufacturing process of a blank, it would be expecting quite a bit for advertised tip sizes to be right-on each and every time, even within the same model; one needs to acknowledge and accept that there will be deviations. There are 2 methods to ensure receiving the correct tip top tube size without having to order additional sizes; 1.) If you are ordering the blank and other c
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David, Yes. Aluminum seats afford piece-of-mind when employed on heavy (50lb +) rods which is backed-up by the fact that they are certainly stronger than plastic seats. Although Fuji offers a beefed-up plastic seat, the DPSH, which works very well for heavier rods, most builders seek the security of aluminum above the 50lb class. Also, large reels often have clamps; it would be nearly impossible
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Scott, Velcro may be too spongy but worth a try. Wrap it as tightly as possible and maybe even 2 rotations.
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David, The “...basic Fuji reel seats” you referred to, by other manufacturers as well, are basically reinforced plastic; often nylon with either FG or CF reinforcement. Plastic has an inherent lubricity to it and I would think better suited for your seizing / galling concerns than aluminum. Just my thoughts; no hard evidence. On the other hand, plastic is softer than aluminum and may be more pro
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Scott, I am uncertain that you and I are talking about the same device to hold the line of a spinning reel while casting with something other than one’s index finger, but I think so. Although I do not do a lot of surf fishing, I learned about this casting aid from this site, purchased one, installed it on my rod, and am happier than a pig in slop that I did = HUGE relief on my finger!!! Mine is
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Lynn, Please share!
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The corrosion resistance of many stainless steel (SS) alloys can be enhanced by the passivation process (Fuji’s CC?). The process tends to bring “non-rusting” elements such as chromium and nickel to the very surface to aid in corrosion resistance. But the process only affects an extremely thin outer layer of the base material and can be easily compromised with minor scratches and such. Thus, I co
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Robert, You are so correct; exploring different ideas, venues, methods and materials is really what rod building is all about, at least in my book. Being a habitual over-thinker and fabricator of many different mediums, rod building has afforded me with a venue to really think outside-the-box and utilize knowledge gained in the previous years and experiences of my life. Although quite a few of m
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Although a Fuji supporter, I have always wondered why Fuji uses 302/303/304 SS rather than 316SS which has the best corrosion resistance of the commonly-available SSs.?.?.? That said, I have not experienced any corrosion on Fuji SS guides on my saltwater builds. Nonetheless….
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Robert, Yet again you have come through; your “indexing” of RodMaker articles is a valued asset!!! I think it is safe to say that ALL OF US thank you for all of your time and effort and taking it upon yourself to produce such. Tom should consider compensating for your list and publish it; it might even spark sales of back-issues. Thank you again for an appreciated job well done!!! With the lack
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Tom, Thanks for providing the link to “Texturizing Grips and Wraps”; I assume it is the same RodMaker article you referred to earlier. It was an interesting and informative read. That is the effect I was looking for but rather for over wrapping with thread rather than shrink tubing. With the exception of the layout time required for the thread cross wraps, the shrink tube method should be fair
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Thanks Tom. I’m sorry if I explained my finding inadequately. This is not shrink tubing but rather quite available “sign vinyl”; perforated flat sheets with an adhesive backing. After the perforated vinyl is applied to the blank, the thread is wrapped over the vinyl and consequently the thread follows the contours created by the (perforation) holes producing small, uniform divots in the thread wr
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Danny, Tom may very well be correct; if so = great, you’ve solved your dilemma. If not, consider this. All thread epoxies are designed, amongst other things, to self-level and they all do a good job of doing so even if some possibly better than others. Discovering how much to apply is the key; too little may leave ridges / streaks circumferally while too much may produce a smooth surface but “
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Thanks Steven; I guess that explains that. I’m still on-the-fence with the new format.
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Cameron, With over 7000 views, that might be a record!!! But only 33 replies?!?!?
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Al, Admittedly, I do not build that many fly rods and I certainly don’t know the difference between your blank OD and seat ID. Nonetheless, whenever one of my builds requires a substantial (relative term) amount of epoxy, I add microspheres / micro balloons to the epoxy; it can reduce the weight of the epoxy by HALF or more! Microspheres are simply as implied; a powder of extremely thin-shelled
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Looking for something different yet subtle for my thread wraps, I started looking for a method to texture my wraps from underneath. I experimented with FG drywall tape, household window screening and a few others and I’m certain that I was not the first to do so. The results were quite pleasing with a slight texture to the wrap which I think offered a very subtle dimension to an otherwise common
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I think that I’m in the same boat, so to speak, as David and Michael = possibly using more guides than the majority. My 7ft UL spinners usually end-up with 9 guides and a couple had (have) 10. And back to the original subject of the post, I doubt if I could tell the difference between Sic or Alconite on any of those.
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Cameron, I am surprised that others have not mentioned two other factors concerning Sic; 1.) being harder than most other ceramic guide rings also equates to it being more brittle and hence more susceptible to fracture / failure from relatively minor bumps and banging, 2.) Sic dissipates heat better than any other guide ring material. Because of #1, I rarely use Sic unless it is the only insert
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Craig, Although I may not be as experienced as the veteran builders, I have tested numerous brands in both light and high-build viscosities to find the one which works the best for my “style”. Consider doing the same because it really boils-down to personal preference. Nonetheless, I have noticed an almost unanimous “basic” difference between light and “heavy” thread finishes. Light versions ten
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Alex, While anything is possible and nothing impossible, and with the exception that Spencer mentioned, I believe that a 2-piece, 80lb rod is a disaster waiting to happen, at least not worth taking the risk. Although it is less of an issue with the line class of the blank and more about the actual drag capability of the reel to generate excessive flex of the blank, I would not be comfortable sec
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Don’t fry bacon naked!!!
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Cory, You have opened Pandora’s box by requesting suggestions on guides; be prepared to be put on sensory-overload lol. While most all modern guides are quite good, brand loyalty can instigate some rather lengthy debates. That being said, while I use other brands from time to time, I am a devoted Fuji guy. With the exception of MicroWave guides, other manufacturers pretty much follow Fuji’s R&am
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