Cory, The above replies are good and I agree. When pursuing the pinnacle of performance, is it best to build the guide train to accommodate the actual reel to be used ? Probably. Is it splitting hairs? Probably. Have I noticed a difference when using different reels on the same rod? Probably not. I am referring to being realistic and reasonable here; not comparing line flow of a 1000 versus a
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Craig, You mentioned what I consider to be one of the MOST important aspects of a wrapper, whether manual or power = a SLIP CLUTCH. While originally designed for use while applying finish to thread wraps (to enable stopping the rotation of the blank without stopping the motor), I have found it to also be INVALUABLE to afford an adjustable rotational tension on the actual blank itself (anti-back
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Leslie, I fish and love both freshwater and ocean fishing, but if I was only allowed to fish one of them, it would definitely be freshwater mountain streams and lakes, especially backcountry hike-to venues; the majestic beauty, pristine environment and exploring nature is pretty dang hard to beat. As for freshwater, being from SoCal, I frequent the Eastern Sierra but the Rockies in Montana, Id
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Thanks to those who replied with requested information but I am out of here; the original subject has been too diluted to offer any more knowledge on the original question.
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Mark, I have not used gold leaf before but have watched my friend who owns a sign shop apply it. It requires certain techniques and materials and being well versed with both. Volume 22, issue 4 of RodMaker magazine offered an informative article by Bill Falconer on making gold leaf scales. Otherwise, an internet search or possibly asking the right sign shop to show you the process is definitely
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Although I started building rods on the spine simply because I thought that is the way everyone did it, I learned from this site that the vast majority of builders build on the straightest axis which I have adapted also. However, I still like to know where the spine is. But as stated in my original post, the straightEST axis is only that, the straightEST axis but not necessarily straight. There a
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Craig, Welcome to the addiction. One man's ceiling is another man's floor; you need to be able to justify the expense of a power wrapper. When first starting-out, there are plenty of other costly supplies (a good inventory of thread as an example) which may be compromised if too much is spent elsewhere. No doubt about it, a power wrapper is a very nice luxury to have, especially if it is capab
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While I certainly appreciate any and all replies, Mike is the first to address my original question heads-on = thanks. I had not considered the effect guide rings aligned straight, line-of-sight might impose on a crooked blank under load. This is exactly the information I have been seeking. I am uncertain how much it would actually affect the blank but, nonetheless, it makes sense. Definitely fue
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Thank you to those replying. Norman, I am sorry that my original, simple request has gravitated to being difficult to understand, but apparently there are those who did not read my actual question and have gone off on different tangents without answering the simple question. I really do not know how I could have stated my question more simply. My original question had / has nothing to do with ho
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Michael, thanks for your input; apparently you and I align the guide (rings) in the same fashion; the guide RINGS form a straight, line-of-sight path. Tom, maybe you need to afford a little clarification as well. “Adjust the rod so that it is straight in the rod holders - no crook. Now when you take it out of the holders any crook will return - all the guides will be on the same axis however.”
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Apparently I need to clarify. No matter if the blank has a curvature / crook or not, I position the guides so that the RINGS are aligned straight, line-of-sight and let the FEET fall where they might. If the blank is so curved that this cannot be achieved, I simply do not build on that blank. The straight alignment of the rings is much more noticeable / detectable than the feet. Again, I do this
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As the title suggests, how do you align the guides on your rod builds? There must be pros and cons to either / both methods to be considered while developing a personal preference. Personally, I position the guides of my builds in the straightest, line-of-sight alignment because when sighting down the rod (as virtually everyone does, including customers), the guides are in perfect alignment with
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Ed, I would love to fish the waters that you do in hopes of even seeing an 18’ trout!!! “I think we need a bigger boat!” {Jaws}.
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I only have 1 heavier spin rod which is used for saltwater Calico and YT; 15-20lb, KL-H25, 4000 series reel spooled with 50lb braid and fluoro leader. Even with 50lb braid, the KL-H guide train casts very nicely. All my other spin rods are ULs, 1-6lb, KL-H16, 1000 - 2000 series reel spooled with 4lb P-Line Fluoroclear. I do not want the hassle of tying leader to braid while trout fishing and the
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Dean, You are not “missing an issue” unless you have not tested / tried ORT.
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Nobody knows for certain (yet) what is going on here with the ORT = that is what is so intriguing. One thing for certain (at the very least “apparently”) is that the guide height and ring size do not matter. Tom was using mid-height KWs so I tried high-frame KL-Hs, but I don’t know what Mike was using. So the heights were different and most likely the ring sizes as well. Nonetheless, the 3 of us,
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Thanks Mike. I am surprised, if not a little disappointed, that more rod builders have not tried / tested Tom K’s oddball reduction train (ORT). Preliminary testing results by Mike and I have coincided with Tom’s original observations = ~10% gain in casting distance. 10% is quite substantial, especially when considering the fish are always 5ft further than we can cast lol. Seriously though, why
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I, too, am a Calstar fan, at least for saltwater. They have always had a great reputation, some claiming them to be the best. Before building my own rods, I had 2 Calstars custom made for me in the early 1990s and still fish them on occasion. The last Calstar I built, an 80lb spiral wrapped roller tuna stick, was in 2019. Since then, I have built on Seeker and United Composites blanks as well and
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It took me a while deciding whether or not to respond to the “cuisine” aspect of fish. While all of us rod builders are well aware of the personal preferences involved with crafting a proper rod not to mention the plethora of techniques and terminal tackle, such is also the case with cooking the bounty of our rod building labor. Everyone knows that ANY and EVERY fish tastes better if personally c
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David, As with Phil Erickson, I am admittedly a (So) Cal kind of guy and do not experience the severe cold as you described; people in LALA Land freak-out when the temps PLUMMET into the 30s lol. That being said, there should be no reason for alam for storing rods in -40* environment; actually, it may be better than storing them in a 120* environment. Basically, after the epoxy in the blank and
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A description, clarification of the “Oddball Reduction Train” (ORT) may be required for those who do not subscribe to RodMaker magazine. Tom’s ORT was a modified NGC layout which started with KW-20, KW-12, KW-8 with 8s out to the tip top but the third guide from the butt, theKW-8 was replaced with another KW12. His ORT was then KW-20, KW-12, KW-12, KW-8 with 8s out. My ORT was a modified KR Conce
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I also tested Tom K.’s “oddball” reduction guide train (ORT). With the much taller Fuji KR Concept KL-Hs that I employed rather than the NGC KWs Tom used, I doubted the casting distance would be improved. Lo and behold, just as Tom and Mike found, the casting distance improved ~ 9-10%. Who would have “thunk” it! Nonetheless, the numbers are the numbers, and now from different sources. BUT WHY???
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David, When building (or having built) a CUSTOM rod, it is never a bad thing to use the actual reel to be employed when the rod is completed. Is it absolutely essential? = only to the most discriminating anglers. As Peter mentioned, spinning reels OF THE SAME SIZE are quite similar while line type and size may be more dictative to actual guide size choice. His guide examples are pretty much stan
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John, Thanks for the video. It comes as no surprise to me that the roots of such a great company as Flex Coat started from such humble beginnings. You and Roger provide outstanding products and service to the rod building community. “That’s how we do it” = that’s how all should do it!!!
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Tom, Be careful!!! Don’t give Roger a big head = he is already hard enough to get-along with!!! Just kidding, Roger is quite the opposite!!!!!!!
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Daryl, I agree with those above; stick with the known shrink tubing from the sponsors to the left. Otherwise, “let the buyer beware”, “things which seem too good to be true, usually are” and “pay me now or pay me later”. I use X Flocked Heat Shrink Tubing, usually over cork tape, for most of my saltwater grips simply because it is easy to install, tough, grippy, comfortable, easy to clean and c
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Steve, Apparently, Tom W. may have identified your issue (a secondary rheostat) which would be a good thing. Tom also mentioned that Roger Wilson is the site’s resident EE and he has graciously helped me with electrical issues a number of times and many other people as well. With all due respect to Tom, consider seeking Roger’s knowledge, insight and advice as well. Good luck.
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Robert, “Why do you build?” What a great and overlooked question!!! I actually had to think about it because I had not really considered it before. I build rods because of the precision involved and knowing that I can build a better rod (functionally and / or aesthetically) than anything available off-the-shelf. Being a fabricator of many different mediums (wood, metal, plastic, glass {as in pl
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David, You have received many good replies.Thread under a tip top can actually be very beneficial by leaving a threaded (as in the ridges on a screw) surface on the blank to really enhance securing the tip top to the blank. For my heavier saltwater rods, I order the tip top tube oversized enough to do just that. As Tom mentioned, I wrap the thread in an open spiral, apply a thin coat of epoxy (
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When one avoids all the hearsay and gets right down to the real nitty-gritty, ANY ceramic guide is “braid-proof”. They all offer enhanced this or that, but in the end, the final decision on which to choose is a compromise. Still on the top of the list for hardness, heat dissipation and polishing is SIC (although Fuji claims their Torsite polishes better). But SICs hardness equates to it being mor
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