ONE MAN’S CEILING IS ANOTHER MAN’S FLOOR!!! Amongst many obvious questions, one thing for sure is at THAT price, they certainly do not have to sell very many!!!
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El, Don’t feel rained-on, you are correct; it is a “crap-shoot” deciding between brands and models until you have actually experienced the difference to develop your own personal preference. Especially when starting-out, stick with the major brands and branch-out / experiment later. Most of the major brands are all very good and will serve you well. I would certainly avoid ordering no-name compo
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Lynn and El, See my original reply above.
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Patric, Guide spacing charts will produce a generic rod. Utilizing the 2-line deflection test for guide placement will produce a custom rod.
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Steve, Syringes and bottle stops for me! Combined, they are the most accurate, easy, no mess, no fuss method to measure thread epoxy. While I will certainly use old syringes for a new batch of the same type and viscosity, I would be very hesitant to mix different brands, even viscosities of the same brand. Although it is acknowledged that most of the 1-to-1 epoxies may be quite similar, none of
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Rick, I agree with all the above. 0.1875 in wall is getting pretty thin but doable if you’re careful and take your time. Patiencence is a virtue.
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Al, Admittedly, I use a variable speed rod lathe (at about 50 RPM) which eliminates ~90% of the difficulties you are experiencing with an inconsistent epoxy edge. But I also insist on employing a Flex Coat slip clutch (for thread wrapping as well) which not only allows me to stop the rotation of the blank without stopping the motor, but also accepts virtually any diameter rod butt / butt grip /
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Mike, Your steps are good but out of order. Ditto Michael and Robert’s prep sequence.
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Mike, I am admittedly a bit puzzled and hopefully you can explain. First, if you clamp the (curved) cork blocks in your “3 sided square jig, to hold it straight while drilling”, and then center drill it to size, when you release the clamp, won’t the block return to the original curved state? Even if the foam arbor is inserted before removing the clamp, is the foam rigid enough to hold the cork
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Bruce, Simply put, if an epoxy manufacturer (most rod building suppliers) stipulates measuring their product by volume, then measure by volume. If the (composite industry) stipulates measuring by weight, then measure by weight. It is as simple as that!!!
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Tom, Your’s is a very good question; how you want to derive a conclusion is debatable. If you make all your wraps precisely the same measured length, say .5in, those toward the tip will appear to be longer simply due to optical illusion (skinny appears longer while fatter appears shorter). To offset the inevitable illusion, one must employ some creative measuring magic. While the feet on larger
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Brad, Welcome to the addiction. To avoid (at least reduce) frustration and flatten your learning curve, be patient yet persistent, observant (which includes how-to books and videos as well as closely observing each step while you perform them), ask ANY question (this can be a very helpful site), and most importantly = HAVE FUN!!! Norman will correct me if I’m wrong, but I think the Y guide(s) y
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David, Without knowing the line rating of your saltwater blank, only that a size 50 reel will be employed, a size 16 or 18 seat may be on the small side. Although a size 50 reel may fit the hoods of the smaller seats, why not use a 20 or 22, possibly even a 24 for more in-hand comfort?
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El, It seems as though you have most of the fundamentals figured-out. The epoxy syringes you mentioned are certainly reusable; JUST DON’T MIX THEM UP between resin and hardener!!! Purchase the available “sealing bottle stops” which allow the syringe to be inserted, turn the bottle upside down to allow the air to rise to the top away from the syringe, and pull the plunger to the desired amount =
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El, There is no “typical range of time” to fabricate a rod. I have heard of builders assembling a rod in 3 - 4 hours and yet I can take a full day just to wrap 9 guides. If I took-on building 4 Christmas rods for my grandkids, I would have already started. Both Leslie and Norman offered good suggestions. Although there are more, there is no sense in putting you on sensory-overload. GOOD LUCK
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Guy, If you are ever in the eastern LA area (I 605 / I 10), feel free to stop by and say hi. There do not seem to be as many rod builders here in SoCal as other parts of the country. I would have private emailed you but your address is hidden. El, I certainly agree that Bob makes it look quite effortless; that is why I thought it might be a viable alternative to a pull-through loop. But as sta
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Chris, With all due respect, I don’t think Tom and John were referring to avoiding the need to mix a second batch but rather getting the epoxy on the wraps promptly to allow the finish to do what it is intended and designed to do = self-level without a bunch of extra, attempted manipulation. In most cases, simply applying the epoxy and allowing it to do its own thing while it is still “fresh” pr
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El, The rods you build for the kids will be cherished for a lifetime, and probably their kids as well!!! It would seem silly to skimp on materials. If you are talking about Rod Bond gel epoxy (for grips, seats, ect), 8oz is more than enough. As for thread epoxy, consider using a lite version; it mixes with fewer bubbles, releases any bubbles quicker and easier, tends to self-lever better, and w
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Thanks for the replies. Norman, I use a FG knot for ALL my braid-to-leader connections; however I learned to use 2 half hitches to end the knot. Even though I have never had one of my FGs fail, I may experiment with the Rizzuto. Guy, You are one of the exceptions to my earlier statement “...most who are involved with rod building are not involved with building archery equipment”. I hope you
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Thanks to Ray Morrison for being the first to locate the video that I was looking for. Thanks also to Ross Pearson for saving me the trouble of posting a link. Apparently, the demonstrator’s name is Bob Taylor; he certainly has a knack for dazzling onlookers! Also which may be apparent, is that most who are involved with rod building are not involved with building archery equipment; Bob’s techniq
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Michael, Would any of you use this thread finish?
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OK all, I tried the tie-off method that Scott supplied, the “back serving knot” (BSK). Although intended for archery applications, I used it to tie-off a half dozen practice thread wraps. IT WORKS! I am just happy to have learned something new and actually be able to perform it myself. After doing it a few times, I am 98% certain that the BSK method is the same as applied in the video I was looki
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Marc, More than considering pot life and cure time, I prefer lite versions because they are more difficult to introduce bubbles while mixing, bubbles which do occur tend to pop easier / quicker, and they seem to self - level better than the higher viscosities. I think that Michael was referring to ProKote. That is what I used when I started rod building simply because that is what the tackle st
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Marc, FlexCoat and Threadmaster, in the lite versions, are my go-to finishes. It is safe to say that all lite versions of all brands have a longer pot life, cure time as well. With the exception of CTS Crystal Coat, the lite versions will be cured enough if given overnight @ 70*F.
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Greg, Thanks! The “back serving knot” that you mentioned MAY just be the method used in the video I am referring to. It also involves ”doubling the tag back over itself” and “possibly reversing the rotation direction (?)” that I mentioned my fossilized brain vaguely remembering; and all without a pull-through loop. Phil, While the back serving knot that Greg mentioned does include a “double
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Greg, Thanks! The “back serving knot” that you mentioned MAY just be the method used in the video I am referring to. It also involves ”doubling the tag back over itself” and “possibly reversing the rotation direction (?)” that I mentioned my fossilized brain vaguely remembering; and all without a pull-through loop. Phil, While the back serving knot that Greg mentioned does include a “double
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Lynn, I think you are correct; the demonstration was at some sort of rod building “gathering”, outdoors if I remember correctly. Herb, I think you are also correct ; no fancy equipment during the demonstration. Did this video vaporize into cyberspace somewhere? The more difficult it is to locate that video = the more I want it!!! Lol So 2 more respected rod builders who have seen the elus
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Thanks Chris. Very interesting, even if unconventional, method to wrap a guide. What I like is that the initial tag is secured by the first 3 or 4 wraps and the loose end is hidden along the guide foot tunnel. Also, those first few wraps serve as a pseudo Forhan locking wrap. How the builder was able to wrap so easily DOWN the ramp of the foot is beyond me; every time I attempt, the thread slides
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Thanks Tom, Bruce, Herb and Tim. The tie-off method that I, and apparently Phil, saw involved NO glue or heat = the same as with utilizing a pull-through loop. As Phil, I saw the video about 5 years ago. Unfortunately, I could not duplicate it so it would be impossible for me to explain, but it involved something like doubling the tag back over itself, possibly reversing the rotation direction (
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Thanks Phil. At least I don’t feel alone. I certainly hope someone links the video for all to enjoy and learn.
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