If I was using a reel larger than a 3000 or had a larger diameter spool I would use Michaels set up for the reduction train and 4mm micros for the running train. Build the rod to the reel you are using.
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Roger Templon Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I just recently rough turned about 20 reel seat > inserts from various acrylic and wood pen blanks. > I'm just waiting to final turn and polish them > after I decide whether to make the spin seats #16 > or #17. I use skeletons from Pac Bay, Fuji, and > Batson. I have some very nice colors and
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What fish are you targeting? I would not use Mudhole guides, but that is just me. Fuji, Seaguide, Batson Alps would also work. I think Fuji are just a better quality guides with less failures like the ring cracking or popping out or the frame welds failing, I am not sure about LZR.
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#1 Cut small slithers and insert them into the tip top barrel and heat up the barrel till the glue bubbles out the top and fix it to the blank tip. #2 Put tip top glue stick in hot glue gun and make lines of glue. Let harden and cut little sections. Place small section in tip top barrel and heat up, when it boils out the barrel fix it to the blank tip. It will be snug and won't come off. Works e
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Looks like a good dryer. The chuck I have on mine is similar (PacBay). I also put tape around mine to make sure it doesn't loosen while it is drying (setting). I have had them loosen up while spinning and the rod fall out, that's why the tape.
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I think this will help a lot of builders for their layouts. Really cool stuff!
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I just drill it to the correct size, take care not to make the bore too large, so start out with undersized bits and test before going up a bit size. Snug fit is good. Frayed fibers can be cleaned up with a small file, Dremel or sandpaper wrapped around a pencil. A winding check will cover any rough looking cuts.
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I believe spiral wraps were first used for offshore rods due to the advantage of not having to use a device to keep the reel in an upright position above the rod. The force being exerted from fighting the fish and the reel (and whole rod) wanting to twist down, makes it even more difficult to land large fish. The first spiral wrapped rod that I saw was a boat rod (offshore) from the 50s. At the t
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Awesome. A little competition for Roger.LOL
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > In my opinion you can’t go wrong with Fuji KR > concept guides. You have two options for the > reduction train. The first is KL16H, KL8H, and > KL5.5M, which will work great with the line and > reel you listed. The second option is KL20H, > KL10H, and KL5.5M, which will give a little more >
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Tom is correct. You may also may want to put a level coat of epoxy down first, let it cure and then apply the decal. Do what Tom says after that. If the rod blank has a flat finish (not shiny), this works best.
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I only went that way about 6 years ago. Haven't made a conventional baitcaster since. Well, maybe one or two, but everything for me; spiral.
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Kendall Cikanek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Grip weight seems very relative to me. When I > build an ultra-light to medium rated rod on a > quality blank, I want every piece to be as light > as possible. I want these kind of rods to > levitate. They just fish magically this way. Give > me CFX carbon grips, titanium guides, and minimum
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I just set the butt on the floor and put pressure on the tip. I have been using the same criteria as Tom for over 30 years and didn't even realize it had been documented. Now I do think that different geometries of rods may affect this but for what I build and use, it works for me.
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Roy, > However, all is not lost. > > Take your spool of braid and make a couple > thousand thread pulls. > > 10 lb braid really excels for a thread pull to use > when wrapping rods. > > I tie up loops with the braid, inserting a small > bright bead in the loop. That w
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Just go with Stainless Steel frames and any guide ring material you want. Fuji Titanium framed in size 4 mm don't really weight any less than the SS frames. I have weighed them and they are all over the place because the stamping is not that precise. In larger sizes there are some small differences but not enough to be a problem. I would only do Titanium frames in saltwater use. The ring material
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When applying wrapping epoxy, the second coat (if needed) can be applied when the first coat is set / hardened. It is not really so many hours. I usually let mine harden to a non tacky feel before applying the second coat. The temperature is different at any given time or location so 5 hours may be enough for some, where it may take 8 or more somewhere else.
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I think I would go with a 7'6" to 8' heavy IM blank for that kind of rod and use Fuji RV Guides all the way. RV 25, RV 16, RV-8 and the rest RV 6 with a 8 mm tip top. My reasoning for the length is because I would want a long rear grip for leverage and long foregrip for fighting. The RV 25 is a good size for the larger spool size on the reel and can be set closer than a 20 to the reel. A 20
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I just do everything at one time as far as mounting the insert and reel seat to the blank. Already have your grip glued in place to the blank. Tape the reel seat thread only. Put your arbors on then apply epoxy to them, slide the insert over the arbors, smear epoxy all over the OD of the insert and inside the reel seat and mount the reel seat over the insert. Make sure the tube ends of the reel s
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Todd Andrizzi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks. I have loved St. Croix blanks from way > back but lost a little love when they started > having blanks made out of the U.S. and then sold > some of their rights to RODgeeks because I believe > they are building blanks in Mexico. I read not > long ago that St. Croix bought out RODgeeks s
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Most all small reel seats will accommodate small to medium sized reels. You may have a problem with large offshore type reels.
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Thanks for the info Joe. I was looking into a different dryer also, this will save me some time and frustration.
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I can attest to nano infused blanks to being more brittle. The blanks I have used that claim Nano technology have mostly broke more than any other blank type. Thanks Chris for the "Lowdown".
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I just put it in and see were it needs to be adjusted. Once it looks level or centers in the chuck without it being tight, i tighten the chuck. The only time I might use a level is right before I apply epoxy and then it is just leveling the base of the wrapper at my work station.
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REC guides are a Titanium alloy (Nickle and Titanium). You probably won't see any type of grooving for a long time and then it would only be at the tip top if any. The only thing that is questionable about the REC guides is the Tip Top, it has a weird barrel with NiTi wire ring crammed into it and pressed. Your guide train is sound to me, although I would use 4s on the running train, but that is
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Make a split grip with a butt piece and an aft grip then you can do whatever length you want. Long fore grip would be nice to go with it too.
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Put water in a ceramic coffee mug or anything that can be placed in a microwave and heat the water for 60 seconds. Use two mugs. Only do one at a time in the microwave, one right after the other. Put epoxy containers in mugs with hot water and wait 10 minutes. The epoxy will be warm enough to mix as per John's instructions.
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Natural cork is a limited commodity and as Donald said; it is getting hard to find high grade cork at a reasonable price. I look at it as more of a performance issue, in that cork is the lightest material to use to make a grip and reasonably transmits vibration as well is comfortable in hand. I use it on fly rods and casting rod grips. For spinning, offshore and beach rods I use EVA. I do not lik
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Try the Fuji metallic silver 903. It is very bright and not dull. Also I just compared the Gudebrod silver to PacBay Crome and ProWrap 9860 and they look like they are a match to the Gudebrod. This is what I have in thread and not from a picture.
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It is just going get worse. I will take my chances as I have been doing. I flew about 10 times across the US and in the Caribbean in 2020 and the planes are packed because they have cancelled flights. It is really pretty simple, just take everyone's temperature before they enter the store, board a flight or go into a crowded space. If you have a weakened immune system protect yourself and stay a
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