CCS measurements themselves, are completely objective, The IP, or ERN of a blank is simply a measurement of how much weight it takes to deflect the tip of a rod or blank, 1/3 of its' total length. IMO where the thought that they are somehow subjective, comes in because of the use of the word "effective". The use of the word effective, implies ability. Take out the word effective, and
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Leslie, like you, what CCS did for me was to show me the actual power of the rods I like for specific baits. and fishing situations. Unless you're lucky enough to live close to a blank supplier where you can actually handle a blank before purchasing it, you're relegated to going by the manufacturers weight and action ratings. And as I have experienced for myself, those can be very misleading. Man
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When you're looking over a rod, whether reading the specs on the rod decal, or reading any inscriptions that may be on the rod, aren't you holding the rod by the butt and reel seat area? I would orient any such media where it is most easily read, left to right. As the majority of people are right handed, unless you had a specific request to the contrary, I would think you would want it to rea
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I have 2 rods built on the SJ 736 X ray blank. Sensitivity will be right there with the NRX. They're pebble counters in that respect. Power wise, I wouldn't consider them fish haulers, so I don't use them when I am going to need to pull a fish out of heavy cover. For me they're more for fishing sparse laydowns, or moderate weed cover. If you like fishing a weightless 5" Senko, the SJ 736 ha
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I am curious as to why not post them here as well? .... if you have them, why not post them here for all to see? The Immortal 68MXF blank is one I have considered for a drop shot rod. But not having CCS IP numbers for the blank made it a no go for me. I've already had a costly experience with the Eternity2 ETES610MXF blank that I built on being severely under powered for a blank with the publi
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Wade, I suspected that anyone getting that blank would have the same decal I and Lynn got. It's had to have been that way for quite some time, as I built my first rod on the MB 709 IM blank somewhere around 3 years ago. And Lynn .... yep, that's why I asked. Lynn, what are your initial impressions of the blank? I love the power and action that it has. As I have said many times in the past. I
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Aleks, thank you for responding. And yes, as I said in the post you quoted. The blank is listed as having a moderate fast action. And with the kind of CCS numbers you posted for it, it clearly is. But that's not what either of the decals I received with my blanks said. The decals both say fast action. All the other specs on the decals match those on the web site. I took a picture of the decal I r
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Lynn .... I'm curious? What does it say the action is? The decals I got with both of my blanks said fast action. It's listed as having a moderate fast action on the web site. I came up with an AA of 68 when I did CCS testing on the first rod I built on that blank. Also, while I can't find it now, but I remember seeing CCS numbers that showed it as having an AA of 62, if I remember correctly.
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Are there any plans in the near future to provide CCS, IP and AA numbers for all of the blanks you offer? Or at the very least, blanks that are targeted towards bass fishing? And a question for Aleks, Any update on that ultra black blank finish you exposed us to a little while back?
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I had problems with guide foot tunnels and bubbles developing. Now I just use a tooth pick and dab blobs of epoxy on them and let it soak in a bit before applying the final finish coat. I started out using low build LS Supreme, then switched to high build LS Supreme. I had problems with the resin or is it the hardener, turning brown in the bottles, so I switched to high build Flex Coat Ultra V.
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I have a heat gun that I bought to use with finish epoxy. But using it caused me way more problems than it solved. As I have gained experience mixing and applying epoxy I find that I don't need any kind of heat at all. Now its' primary use is for warming molds that I use for making soft plastic baits. Other than that it pretty much sits in a drawer in my filing cabinet.
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No Michael .... I was referring to post you used to start this thread ........ it's like being alone in the woods and you suddenly feel like you're being watched. Either by someone, or some thing. You might be armed, but it still gives you chills. lol
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Mark B .... the two CCS measurable s that I am concern with, are the IP (intrinsic power) of the rod or blank, and the AA (action angle) of the rod or blank. Intrinsic power and AA are measured by using enough weight to deflect the rod 1/3 of its' total length, which is the standard that CCS uses to define a fully loaded blank. Example: In my case, I place the rod horizontally, making sure it
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Mark, if you don't mind paying for a blank that, based on its' published specs, you thought would have a certain power, only to find out that upon receiving the blank, that it is nothing close to what you expected it to be .... then it's not important at all. But when you order and receive close to $300 in blank and components, only to find out that the blank you chose is going to be worthless
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Michael? Why? Or to put it another way ............. 'c'mon man"
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When I first started building, I built a hand wrapper modeled after the hand wrapper that Flex Coat makes. I know longer use it for wrapping, but I do use it for static load guide placement as well as doing CCS IP, and AA measurements. I have dowels through the stand that the butt of the rod rests on that are there so I can secure the butt of the rod. Height wise, they're about at the mid way
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Leslie, I use one of the weighted knockers that has pieces of small link chain to free crankbaits if I am in deeper water. It's made by Daiwa. TW carries them. I'd say I get back 90% of my baits using it. It either knocks the bait free, or if I wiggle it enough one of the pieces of chain catches on one of the treble hooks, and I just pull until the hooks bend I used to use one of those extend
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Interesting that there are those that evidently have success in freeing a snag using the bow string method, with braided line. I have never been successful doing that when using braid. If I am hung up and using braid in heavy wood cover, I either go in and try to gently push the bait off of what it is hung up on using the tip of the rod. And having broken a few tips using the rod to free a sn
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I was using arrow shafts for mandrels as well. They work great!! I stopped using them because I bought one of the reverse spade bits that Flex Coat makes. The shaft of the bit was only slightly smaller than diameter of the arrow shafts I was using, and I wanted to go with a slightly larger bore in the rings to make building tape arbors on the spade bit shaft a little easier. I ended up getti
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Boat flip the size bass I caught yesterday maybe ,,,,,,, 6 - 10" LOL
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Alex, you have a lathe, are you not using a chisel as Tom does in the video link he posted, to make sure the grip is concentric before you start the shaping process? I watched the video that Tom linked, as part of my decision to start building some cork grips. I do as he did and use a half round chisel to make sure the grip is concentric prior to the shaping process. I even use the half round
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I just started building a few cork grips, and I never considered using 1/4" rings for building an entire grip. What Roger says about being able to identify flaws in a ring being easier with 1/4" than it is with 1/2" certainly makes sense to me. A 1/4" ring is functional in that it can allow you to build certain sections of a multi colored grip to specific dimensions, or in
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Phil? Will your nonsense never cease?
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I just looked at Point Blanks web site. They don't list a PB731HF..... they list a PB731HXF. Most likely a typo on the OP's part. They do list a PB761HF. Be that as it may, looking at the hard specs for both the 731HXF and the 761HF, on the link provided with the blank description,the lure weight range for both the PB731HXF and the PB761HF are 1 - 2 oz. If you go to the specifications link o
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As Norman said, Mud Hole has great customer service. It stinks that you'll have to wait a little longer to get started, but if they have it in stock, they will get you taken care of in a jiffy.
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These are great for getting your bore closer to the diameter of the blank for cork grips. Of course the diameter of the blank you're using is going to determine which size, and whether or not you can use them. But they have saved me a lot of time reaming, for the grips I've built
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lol Lynn, you have a lucky son. If he is going to use it for flipping and pitching he is going to love it. I've used mine for Carolina rigs, and it fishes them really well. I've also thrown heavier chatterbaits with it and it fishes them really good as well. I haven't used it for anything else but it's probably great for bigger spinnerbaits as well. For me, it's about as good as you can get f
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Lynn, I used LN and L guides on both of the rods I've built on that blank. They both have the same guide strains on them. An LN 10, LN 8, and LN 6, follow by 4.5 L guides. I have 11 guides plus tip top on both rods. I'll be interested in if you find it tip heavy or not. I have the same model reel on both rods. The first version of the Shimano Castaic. It is a heavy reel. If I remember right
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Shawn, I've used that blank comparator on that site. I actually like it, and I have pulled up blanks that I have, and compared the way they look, and it seems to be right on, so if it shows the blanks looking the same I would feel confident that they are. It would still be nice to have CCS numbers for them. That way, if you are familiar with the IP in grams of one blank, and choose another with t
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Shawn, the trim rings that I used are Alps trim rings. You can get them from a board sponsor, Utmost Enterprises, That's where I got mine. Utmost is an awesome place to deal with. As far as the tube between the reel seat hoods, it's functional in that it keeps the reel seat hoods spaced properly. The seat is a Forecast skeleton seat with 2 options for inserts. The one you see pictured, and a
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