Shawn, I recently finished a rod that I put a 2500 Vanford on. I too went with red trim bands, as well as a couple of red trim rings. I just tried uploading a picture of the rod, but the file is too big. I'd take another picture, but the rod is out in my boat, and I have a tournament tomorrow and I don't really want to tear my rod locker apart right now. I'll take a picture of it tomorrow and pos
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LOL Ben ..... and we need more than one rod, too !!! Oh wait ..... I'm not a pro ..... but I still need more than one rod lol
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I was gonna say ..... it's a trolling rod. A big water trolling rod at that. I have no knowledge of a rod like that, but I gotta agree with Joseph .... nobody is worried about weight from under wraps or double wrapping on a rod like that.
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Matt, as Joe said, popping blanks are reported to make good crankbait rods. Crankbait rods don't make good flipping or pitching rods. The power curve is different. So what Joe said is spot on. I too have grown fond of a mod fast action for a flipping and pitching rod. There isn't much to choose from from Rainshadow when it comes to blanks suitable for flipping and pitching that have a mod fas
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Dark Matter .... I like it !!! Cast my vote for Dark Matter as well !!!
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As far as naming the blank line up, if it comes to fruition .... Black Hole was my first thought, but it is already in use. Abyss would be a great name, but Phenix is already using that name for a line of their blanks. Stealth is being used by Century Rods. Void isn't bad, and a quick Google search doesn't show that name in use, but that doesn't mean a lot when you are potentially infringing
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So David ..... what you're saying is ....... at least the way I interpreted what you just posted is, that it takes very little effort to find the kind of information you listed? And that if someone is complaining about this type of information not being available, that they are putting little if any effort into searching for said information. And instead, they are spending more time complaining a
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And I would lay odds that the native language of the manufacturer is most decidedly English. 3 of the last 5 blanks I have ordered from a well known US blank manufacturer, have had dimensions that were not even close to the dimensions the manufacturer provided for those blanks. I have no doubt that 2 of the blanks were not the blanks I ordered. The other blank in question is either not the bl
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If the MB 739 from NFC that Aleks suggested is anything like the MB 709 from NFC, you will absolutely love the rod you build on it. I have two rods built on the MB 709 IM blank, and I couldn't be more happy with the rods I have built on them Awesome blank !!!
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If you have ordered the black titanium in hopes of matching the black frames you currently have, I think you are going to be disappointed concerning color match. IMO, and I just looked at them side by side, unless the color of the T2's have changed over the last year, the colors aren't even close. The BC grey guides from Fuji are almost an exact match in color to the black titanium T2 guides.
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Yes, it sounds like the rod you want to build has some big shoes to fill. I would ask what kind of weights you'll be using most often, as IMO it would affect the blank I would choose. Also, what kind of line you're planning on using? If you're using braid, and will be throwing baits with a total weight of up to 3/8 oz. my personal choice would be the ETES72M from Rainshadow's RX10 Eternity lin
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Munching popcorn like I'm at the movies ...........
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As usual Norman is spot on with the number of guides you'll need. Yes to KB guide next in line to your final reduction train guide. The size is up to you. Torzite rings have a larger ID than SIC or Alconite guides. Because of that, if you're using braid or a nice limp nylon mono, a 4.5 KB would be my choice. I use fluorocarbon for the main line on my spinning gear. Because of that I would go wit
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I'd be curious as to what you're going to use it for. Saying there will never be more than 3/8 oz on it doesn't really say much. I haven't built on the blank that Aleks suggested, but I have built on 2 X ray blanks, and they have the sensitivity you're looking for. If you're going with an X ray because of the price, I can certainly understand that, but ...... I know of another series of blank
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Well, after reaming and some more contouring the weight of the grip is down to 1.35 oz. Despite the majority of the weight of the grip not being optimally located for balancing purposes, the added weight of the grip is definitely going to reduce the amount of weight I am going to have to add once the rod is finished and the reel is on. This is the second rod I've built on the MB 709 blank, an
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Norman, thank you for the response, Very much appreciated. And yes, the way you just described is the way I thought I would approach it, if I were to ever do another similar grip. So seeing you post doing that way gives me solace that it was a good way to approach it. And while the burl weighs more than regular cork. it''s that dang rubberized cork that's really heavy. But as tough as it is to
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Gotta agree with the others ..... that is major league cool. Guide wraps would pop on that blank. Interested to see what the answer to Daniel's question about the durability of the paint. Definitely something I'd be interested in if it were offered in a blank of my liking.
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You have company on that hill Geoff lol
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Tom and Robert, thank you much for the replies. Much appreciated. I took interest in an earlier thread that talked about coring grips. Very cool idea. At the time I hadn't thought I would ever consider it as I am not one that worries about weight behind the reel seat all that much. That was before I built a grip using 4" of rubberized cork. I knew it was going to be heavier than an all c
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Much more of a form than function thing ..... I built another grip. I still have some contouring to do that I'll wait to do after I ream it. I tell ya one thing ..... that rubberized cork is some tough stuff. Even 80 grit sand paper doesn't touch it that much. May have to hit it with a chisel again, just to save some time and keep the heat down in it. Anyhow .... here's another grip that
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Roger, no problems in disagreeing. Totally understandable. It just hasn't worked out that way for me. Maybe it's the color of thread I was using. I was using a light colored thread, and it was noticeably darker with epoxy on it versus the alcohol test I did when I did a test wrap. Anyhow .... glad you have trust in the method. I just do test wraps, and coat them with epoxy on a scarp piec
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MIck, I mentioned the Alps MVT seats I use with a similar insert. I've used 7 of them total, I've had to epoxy inserts on 2 of them. I had the same concern you're having with the one you didn't epoxy, so I e mailed the place where I got them, and asked about it. They are closely related with Batson, and they contacted them. They said they are supposed to epoxied in at the factory. Evidently a cou
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What Leslie described seems like a solid plan, and would be the route I would go if there were no more than one or two wraps that needed attention. If it is multiple wraps, I would probably just cut them off and start over. I'm not very fast at wrapping, but it seems to me that sanding them, once again, only if there are more than one or two, would be more time consuming than simply cutting t
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Sorry, but in my experience, wiping a wrap with alcohol does not represent the color the wrap will be once epoxy is applied. Alcohol doesn't cause the gain in translucency that epoxy does. Or at least it hasn't in my experience. And it may not be something you want to hear, but what Fred said about redoing it if you aren't happy with it, versus leaving it, and learning to live with it, is the
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I haven't used that particular reel seat, but I use Alps MVT reel seats on my casting rods that also has an insert of that type. I epoxy the insert into the reel seat and let it dry before putting it on the blank. That way it's one less thing to worry about. moving.
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Chris, thank you for the compliment. I truly appreciate it. It was a fun experiment to do. And while I personally knew the results would be telling, I wanted to share with others that might be considering adding weight to the butt of their rods to achieve a specific degree of balance. I can understand your not being one to add weight, but you're evidently not repulsed by the idea. When the to
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Michael, here is the thing about getting companies to comply with the objective standards, and it ties to what Geoff said earlier. Anglers have developed a framework for what constitutes a certain named power rating. And if they are like me, it is feel related. You can't take feel out of the equation. You just can't. Using the IP range that Geoff suggested for a medium heavy power rod as an examp
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I did an experiment that I think fits this topic quite well. I have two rods that are built on the same blank. The builds used identical components, in the same locations on each rod. The only difference between the rods is the rear grips they have on them. I changed the grips on the one rod, so I took the opportunity, and added a 1 oz weight inside the butt of the rod I added the weight to ligh
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Thank you Michael.
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Michael, I have the aversion to ERN for the reason you stated. It's just a number. I definitely understand CCS and what ERN is. CCS is a set of measurements to compare one blank to another. ERN and AA are comparative numbers. Period. It does it's job quite well. My saying it could be modified is not a slight toward CCS nor is it disrespectful to those who developed it. I certainly understand
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