Triangle grips are made to fit your hand. Since your hand does not grasp the rear grip, I'm not sure why it would be used. Also since most rod holders are round I would think that the point of the trinagle would get tore up pretty quickly.
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That stuff has been around for about 6 to 8 years now. The colors are all pastels and unless you want a easter egg fishing rod don't use it. It also turns transparent when epoxy is applied so the whole weave application is out of the question.
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You could lower the price...LOL
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Mudhole had them. Not sure if they still do.
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Here is a picture of the torch Fran was talking about (Pg. 44) Russ Pollack can get them for you. It is a very useful torch but even better toy. You can shoot fire something like ten feet.
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1) when it becomes hard 2) your discretion 3) you can apply immediately after applying decal
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Tom, Please enlighten me as I was always under the assumption that Flex Coat manufactured epoxy as they are about the most widely recognized epoxy distributor <----(??, is this correct). Still seems they should know what they are talking about regardless if they made it or not.
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Tom this is a quote from the Flex Coat website "After the mixture is in its clear state it can now be thinned with acetone. The amount of acetone added should not exceed 1/15 of the total mixture volume. We use our graduated pipets for these minute measurements of acetone (see tips on measuring acetone for primer coat). Again mix the thinned Flex Coat until it is crystal clear. Once m
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So the new Renzetti components are NOT compatible with a newer Clemens Lathe???? Jim where are the Clemens parts available from? Can you use the turning motor for thread work or is it to powerful?
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Lou I don't doubt you but wanted to hear it from someone else. Is the Renzetti Lathe the same as the Clemens??? If not are the parts interchangeable?? Can you buy a new Clemens Lathe or are they discontinued??? What is/was the most recent price of a new Clemens Lathe and what did it include???
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one small, one medium
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Thanks for the help
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I just watched Andy Dear's video which is a must for someone wanting to get started with lathes. I found a JML 1014 Jet mini lathe for $170 NIB. I think similar to this one is this what I need? It looks similar to the one Andy uses but I am not 100%
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Mudhole has them
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Thanks a lot Doc. It is people like you that continue to advance rod buiilding.
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Thanks for the tip Mike but it is just a bit blurry . For exaple the eyeglass screwdriver, was it originally a flat head or phillips?? Also (not related to the pics) where do you get smooth jaw pliers
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Very informative Doc. I would, however, like to see more of a close up of the modification to the tools you used.
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Tom, I think both a "conventional epoxy application" and a "spatula application" seminar in Charlotte would be popular demos. Just a thought.
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Thanks to everyone for the replies.
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Lou Reyna Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The first step is to apply as thin a finish as possible I believe this is my problem. I think I am simply putting to much on. It is just so easy to go overboard.
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I never use CP because I would rather saturate the thread and underlying guide foot with epoxy rather than CP. I have no proof that epoxy offers more protection from water intrusion than CP this is just my belief.
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I understand why some are not getting air bubbles in the leftover epoxy sitting on tin foil. It is an impervious surface. But for those of you not getting small bubbles rising from the initial thread coat it seems that your epoxy is sitting on the surface of the thread rather than penetrating the thread directly to the guide foot where residual air has to be located. The only way to get rid of th
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I hear this a lot on this forum but regardless of how "bubble free" I make epoxy before applying it to thread there is a certain amount of air trapped in the thread that gets pushed out when epoxy is applied. The only way to get rid of air bubbles caused by this is to apply a little heat. Am I missing something here???????
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Bill Colby Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You can definitely rip a double foot guide out of > a wrap, but the force required to do it usually > ruins the guide anyway. EXACTLY............... that is why I've stop double wrapping guides
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"You KNOWWW your a Rodbuilder when......." all your friends are fishing with beautiful rods built by you but you have 10 year old penn power sticks because you don't have enough time to build some for yourself.
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They are perfect for banging around the boat and not worrying about. I build them for a bunch of commercial grouper guys here in St. Petersburg, FL. I build the T80XH black on black with the NFG guides becuase they don't have to worry about them breaking, inserts popping out, etc. They are a bit heavy but when you are strapping 9/0 Senators to them with electramates a little extra weight in the r
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I would think that because finish is not an adhesive that surface prep wouldn't matter that much.
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I think a water break free surface is only neccessary for areas that you are gluing parts to (i.e gimbals, grips & reel seat). Epoxy is more of a protectant a does not need a strong bond.
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Well first I hate to tell you but you're a little late for father's day. As far as the guides you chose I think a size 30 butt guide would be the minimum with a 4000 Stradic. I also think that the blank is 10'6" (I didn't look this up) but if it is you may want to think about adding at least 4 size 8 guides to the other side of that spectrum. Five guides are not enough for a blank over 10 fe
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You need to add more threads in the pattern. The way I figure how many axis's my patterns will cross is determined by the number of layout threads used. For example in your diamond pattern. You first wrapped one thread up the blank and another thread down the blank to create the very center of the diamond pattern and created a 2-axis pattern with these two layout threads. If you had originally la
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