Thanks Steve and Tom, I appreciate the help! I agree about the weight-savings, and would rather stick with a (fixed) one-piece rod. I think I will re-read Tom's vol.6 article and try to extend a blank. Sounds like an adventure but you never learn without trying! Thanks again.
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I would like to build either a M or MH power, fast action casting rod at least 7'6", intended solely for jigging, placing the reel seat up the blank at the 13 - 14" area for comfort. This of course doesn't leave much rod above the reel! I've noticed some "1pc." 7'6" blanks labeled as "1+x", and wondered what would arrive and how I would construct it if I order
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Thanks Bruce, that's pretty much what I do also - after marking the centers on ncp thread, I also mark the thread between centers in case I want to shorten (or elongate) them a bit. Then I try to align the whole deal so it's centered on the blank.
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Thanks Tom, I'm all "squared" away ;) ...out of practice I guess, it's been too long since I laid one of these out. I appreciate your reply!
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...Oooops, sorry to take up space - it figures as soon as I posted I would find the answer to my own question. (Pi x diameter = centers).
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I've been eyeballing and placing centers for open (diamond) wraps using Tom's method with NCP thread with good results. I now have a larger rod and a longer area to cover, and wondered if tapered offset spacing would look better (?) I have Clemens thread art book and know how to figure the spacing given a number of predetermined centers, but how do you determine how many centers you should have
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For detailed instructions to create diamond or chevron wraps, I would highly recommend reading Tom Kirkman's "Rod-Building Guide" book. Doesn't get any easier than this - complete with step-by-step photos.
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...on it's way Rich
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Rich - you have mail...!
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Rich, I use a lot of the Whiting saddles, in grizzly and other colors for inlays. Check out the Hook & Hackle link to left for 100packs, available in different (hook) sizes also. I'd be happy to mail you a bunch (for free) if you only need a dozen or so.
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...using adapta-caps and syringes, I usually mix 5ml total using a small metal spatula, in a plastic dosage cup for a couple minutes. I then pour the mix onto aluminum foil and hold it just under my 50W halogen desk lamp to release any remaining bubbles. (Most of the time, just blowing through a straw or short piece of rod blank helps to initially "de-bubble" the mix too.)
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Thanks guys, and you're right on Cliff - I was thinking of using braid but will stick to a fast action with mono line for this depth (150'+). Thankfully, these fish follow bait to shallower waters throughtout the spring and summer!
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I'm in search of a good 7' casting blank that can handle 1 to 2oz. jigs for deepwater vertical jigging (150'+ down) lake trout. (Fish average 5lbs, with an occasional over 10lb.) I really like the St. Croix SCIII lineup, but not sure of the model. Is a rod with a "Heavy" (3C70HF) power rating (to handle the lure weight) overkill? Also, with setting the hook in mind, would a mode
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Checkout the airfare rates on kayak.com, (around $140 RT from Harrisburg) hope to meet everyone there if I can swing it!
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I've done them will good results pretty much the same as above... Glue up the cork rings only, shape on a mandrel - making sure the exposed end of the rear ring is flat for glueing your buttcap on later. Epoxy cork butt to blank leaving a bit of blank exposed for the buttcap. Countersink the buttcap to fit the blank and epoxy/clamp on. Rough-down close to shape using a table sander, then hand
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I have really good luck using surgical tubing (fit fairly tight to the blank dia.) cut into small strips to hold guide feet down. After the guide's secured enough with thread, just snip the tubing off. Just remember to slide them down the blank before you glue on your tip top!
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Thanks again Glenn! My blanks are standing in a basement corner too, one of these days I'll actually build one for myself! :)
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Thanks Glenn, I'll check their site. Btw, I finished up that Shikari 704 (@#$%& sale) blank and my dad used it to pull up some fine lakers yesterday! Had our best day ever jigging!
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Thanks Bret, I appreciate your help! I just left a message with Andy.
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Anyone still carry the discontinued AllStar IM10X series 785C or 845C casting blanks? Thanks! Mike
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I would recommend the dvd to all lathe users also. Great sound/photo quality and very informative. I really enjoyed watching the cork-grip assembly/turning which added that extra bit of confidence when doing my own work. Excellent job Andy!
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To make life a bit easier, (and much probably better looking) I ordered an exposed (ecsm) seat to fit the blank snugly, and leave less of a gap (if any) in front. Should be easy to fit a winding check, if necessary. The seat I tried in the first post is a straight size 18 that looks just plain chunky, even when cut down a bit. The resulting gap in front looked awful, I was going to resort to
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Making a split-grip casting rod without a foregrip. After measuring with the reel on, I have cut the threaded barrel off of my reel seat even with the front nut. What with, or how do you fill the gap on the front of the seat between the blank and seat? Fill and level off with epoxy? Use a large rubber winding check? (It's quite a gap there!)Thanks for any suggestions, always appreciated!
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Gotcha Tom, I guess here's a case where performance and matching the correct components to the type of rod/use outweigh aesthetics! Thanks again.
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Thanks Tom, I'm starting to wake up and think a bit more logical now, better to be safe. On a rod this size, the extra weight of a couple of guide wraps won't hinder anything. Appreciate your help and opinion as always! Mike
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Thanks Ken. I really like the total single-foot look and performance on all my rods too! This is my first casting rod though. In this case with a bumper-style wrap, I was just wondering how any line torque from reeling in fish would affect the position of the stripper and first 180deg guide over time.
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Building up a SCIII 7' MH casting blank for lake trout jigging. Lures run up to 2oz., fish average 5-6lb. with an occasional 10lb'r. My question is, am I playing with a possible future-guide breakdown, using single-foot alconite guides for the entire rod (including stripper & bumper) all Forhan-wrapped? Thanks for your help, appreciated!
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Many thanks Putter! The name George Roth rang a bell when I read it in the above post looking at the pics, but I couldn't remember the link. Much appreciated, Thanks again for your help! Mike
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Scott, Excellent work with the ecsm seat, great look and function! I'm building my first casting rod now and would appreciate any hints how you cut and polished it! Thanks, Mike
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I was thinking that since the agate (and bumper) would be the only visible guides, that the other guides underneath (probably chrome sf alconites) would not be too visible in contrast, and the setup wouldn't look too bad. I 'm partial to red, and just thought a red-ringed stripper would add some pizazz. Thanks for your thoughts and help!
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