...So a coat of CP is unecessary if TWO coats of adhesive are applied, letting the first coat properly cure, correct? (using cork.) Just received the kit and want to get it right the first time! Thanks!
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Thanks everyone, a lot of great suggestions here. (The holo's really do look awesome on these pink and purple blanks!) I sincerely appreciate the help!
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Thanks Steve and Chuck, I wondered how the M guides and alconites would look combined, I would like to keep everything uniform if possible. Steve, sounds great, I appreciate your experience with these - I think I'll give the M's a go as suggested using the concept setup. Thanks again, Mike
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Thanks Jim and Jay, I appreciate the help. I'm using small, lightweight reels for the kids so the first guide will probably be a 16 or 20byag. I wasn't sure if there would be a weight issue between the two mfgs, but guess it shouldn't be an issue d/t small size anyhow. I'll take a peek at the colored guides also, thanks for the tip Jay. Again - thank you both!
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Setting up two 5'6 ultralight spinning blanks (spink and purple!) for my daughters, and wondered if Batson's BMLG ("M") guides would be advantageous, or just generally favored vs. alconites. (Or, a mix of both?) I normally use alconites, but have never seen or used the BMLG's for comparison. I will be using the concept setup. Any suggestion for sizes or general setup are greatl
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You bet - That's a definite! Thanks again.
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Thanks for clearing me up Tom, appreciated. I thought that I read somewhere in a past post that CP was recommended on both layers regardless of thread type used. Just finishing up my first Tiger -- I did use CP on the NCP top thread "just in case", will skip it next time if using a dark upper thread. It has really come to life after a first coat of ThreadMaster, wow, all smiles he
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I've been searching past posts, plus re-reading Bill and Scott's articles, but must be blind (so don't come down too hard!) -- Just curious, is it recommended (and why), to apply CP to the upper (single) thread of a tiger wrap, if NCP thread is already being used? Thanks!
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Thanks for the suggestions, I really appreciate the help! The reason I lean toward a 7' rod is d/t the placement of the reel seat - it usually falls (based on the elbow of the jigger) anywhere from 10 to 12 inches from the butt for comfort. That doesn't leave a lot of rod left over. I also like the leverage of this length for quick hooksets, although I realize there isn't a whole lot of differ
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I've been using Avid (70MF or 70MHF) casting and spinning blanks for jigging the past couple of years, and just wondered if anyone could recommend a better, or comparable (and sensitive) blank for this use. (Really no problem with the Avids, I just haven't been exposed to other brands.) Leaning toward the "Mag-bass" designations, but not sure. (Hoping to get to High Point next year
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Thanks for the reviews gentlemen - I appreciate it! Spoke with a fellow who's fishing friends raved (positively) about these, and thought I might find a small niche in the local rodbuilding arena. There's a lot of positive feedback on Cabela's site also for their "Innercast" rods (employees?). I was still skeptical and couldn't believe a blank built this way would carry many positiv
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Curious, are there any freshwater casting blanks available similar to Cabela's Innercast rods where the line travels inside the blank? (Probably looking for a 7' Med/Fast.) I have heard a lot of positive comments about these and would like to try building a few for some walleye/bass fishing friends. Thanks for any help!
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the help!
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Looking for a spinning or casting blank recommendation for vertically jigging 2oz. (max) Butterfly-style jigs, inland, primarily for lake trout. Not sure if a certain type of rod action is necessary due to the characteristics of these jigs, but I'm open to and very appreciative of any suggestions! Many thanks, Mike.
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Tommy, Thanks to Dave B., there's a very helpful, easy to follow video for this wrap found at www.visualwrap.com, listed within the Pattern Library link -
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Ron, Grizzly's (model #HO777) 1/2in drill mates well with that lathe. Listed under "accessories" on bottom of Hobby Lathe page (website).
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Thanks Rich, holy cow - time to switch the brain back on, it's embarrassing that I actually forgot what that tool was for! I'll do some "sight testing" and see how they compare. Appreciated, Mike
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I've been placing guides by using a vertical spine finder (or marble, etc.), and pressing straight down with my finger on the tip of the blank. The blank will flex in one favored direction, no matter how it it pivoted on the base, and I place the guides either on the inside or outside of this curve depending on the type of rod. Is this the same an the above mentioned "belly"? Just wo
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Is this what you're after? Add: /downrodz.htm to this address
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A vote for Fuji Alconites - either in chrome (clnag/clag/cfat) or black (blnag/blag/bfat). (Stripping/running/tip).
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Thanks again Cliff, appreciate the extra help! I've been practicing new wraps on doweling, and taking mental notes while doing so on centers, spacing, etc. Think I've got this nailed down, seems much easier than mentally expected. Ready to tackle the taper now! Thanks again. Mike
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Thanks Cliff, I really appreciate your work, plus the helpful links. (I'm going to graduate from diamond and chevron U one of these days!) I think that I will go with the paint route, as a bright undercoat is what I'm after, plus I believe it may be easier to mark the centers. Off to grap the calipers, many thanks again for your help! Mike
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Thanks Randy, I appreciate your help. I wasn't sure if everything would stay "centered up" since I'm filling a space of about 6.5". This is a dark blank, so I may try to paint the area instead of wrapping with white thread+CP to stay bright. Only one way to find out... Thanks again, Mike.
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Wanted to give an optical chevron a go on a split grip. Is this type of wrap still considered "open", thus I can use equal spacing taken from the mid-diameter x pi, or do I need to space it according to the taper? Will probably wrap a white underwrap, how do you mark the centers, use marked ncp thread? Many thanks!
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Thanks Mike, I had a feeling this would be the case. Thought possibly the cork seal might have a "polyurethane" effect over the Tru-oil if it adhered, maybe smoothing out any leftover cork divots. I won't mess around though! Appreciate your help, Mike.
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Just coated a few cork grips using Tru-oil (2 light coats) and wondered if a coat of u-40 Cork Seal over them would still be advisable? (Not sure if there's a chemical reaction between the two, and would hate to ruin the grips!) Thanks for any feedback!
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Tony, just what comes to mind for lakers... St. Croix 7'MF casting blanks for 1oz. spoons, 7' MHF for 2oz., and either the 7' MHF or 7' HF for 3oz. spoons. I jig for lakers (avg. 5 - 7lbs., >100' water) 95% of the time with 3/4 to 1oz. jigheads and spoons using a SCIV 70MF casting rod and really enjoy it. Handles lakers nicely, many up to 13+lbs. Used Alconites and suggest transitioni
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...or, for spill-free drawing, try Adapta-caps!
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Like Andy and Billy, I'm also a "whipper" and "frother" when mixing ThreadMaster, with no resulting bubble troubles. I mix with a plastic dosage cup/metal spatula, pour into alum foil, blow off the majority of visual bubbles using a straw, then hold the epoxy under a small (50W) halogen desk lamp which releases any remaining (visual) bubbles in under a minute's time. I also
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Thanks Steve, that's the route I would like to go. I'm currently searching mfg listings for longer casting blanks!
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