Thanks Tom and Spencer, (a sigh of relief here). I've been using the concept setup since way back when (and recently the 27 multiplier) with great results, and still want to stick with the small running guides on this build. I appreciate your votes! Thanks, Mike
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I've had a request to build a ISB822.5 for a friend, and would like to wrap the guides using the concept method. The only problem is that he doesn't yet have a (spinning) reel for this rod, and mentioned that he will purchase a "medium-sized" Quantum or Shimano shortly. I can align the guides by substituting one of my mid-sized reels, but wonder how much performance may suffer if the
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I'm hooked on U-40's cork seal also. Maybe it's just me, but I think it also, if only slightly, enhances inlayed colored-burl rings such as checkers!
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I've rotated between a couple of #12 scalpels (with handles) for many years now, and would be lost without 'em! The slightly-curved blade is easy to sneak in and angle around if necessary for trimming thread. A box of 100 replacement blades usually run around $8 - $10.
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Thank you Todd, appreciated!
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Thanks Bill, I completely understand and wish you the best also! If my customers are at least half as nice as the people on this board, I'll immensely enjoy it also. ...haven't had time to build up that 7'6" Castaway blank for those 'ol ugly lake trout yet, friends and family are keeping me busy with their rod requests. I have used some of the Castaway reel seats though and they worked
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Thanks so much for all of your responses, I sincerely appreciate it! At least now I know what to inquire about and who to contact. I'm going to make some phonecalls and visits this week, beginning with local regulations and my tax advisor. If nothing else, this will be an education! Many thanks again - you folks are the best! Mike
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Maybe too much finish? A level finish over the bottom wrap really makes life much easier when wrapping up top. I've found multiple light coats of finish works well in the end. For freshwater rods, bottom threads, I like to use two coats of TM - the first just enough to wet the threads (wicking excess away), a second "normal" TM coat, then one coat of TM Lite. Top layer usually ends
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Thanks everyone - I really appreciate the input! As far as liability or insurance needs go - couldn't a rodbuilder be protected if the client initially signed a waiver covering any and all future miscues?
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Would any one of these blanks fit the bill solely for 2oz. butterfly jigs used in freshwater for lake trout? Thank you, Mike
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It's become more than a hobby, and I still enjoy it - I've had ever-increasing requests for custom rods over the last couple of years, word of mouth has been a powerful marketing tool (although I'm not marketing!). Since I do not have a business license, I usually end up giving them away as gifts, or as donations to help out local events and fundraisers. I cannot accept payment. I have seriou
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Thanks Terry! I'm going to experiment with a dyed-epoxy/thread ramp on my next sans-foregrip rod, appreciate the suggestion!
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Thanks Mike and Chuck, I really appreciate your help! I guessed that the grips were recessed a bit on the wrap end rather than being bored the same diameter completely through, makes sense but just thought I'd ask! Great tip on using the doweling too Chuck, thank you. I'll give one a try and post a pic when done. I normally use those darn black rubber winding checks on split grip areas bu
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...just looking at Chuck Mills photos, beautiful work! In similar manner, I usually fill in the exposed butt area of split grip rods with a decorative wrap, tying the wrap off next to the each grip. I'm mainly using cork and burl cork. What's a sound procedure for epoxying the grips right over/on the wrap, so the wrap is completely covered? Recess a portion of the grips (wrap-side) to acco
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I'm giving this a try - 3M #6066 - 3M FINISHING GLAZE PERFECTIT 3000. Product description on 3M.com site, along with dealer locator. As Duane mentioned above, found at most auto parts stores.
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IT'S NOT THE FINISH! ...for the first time ever with any finish, I have been experiencing what I thought were difficulties with TM and TM-Lite. I've been using it successfully since it's inception, always very pleased with the results. But this time around, while trying to finish off a long holo butt wrap, I've experienced a hair-pulling cycle of multiple fisheyes. Knowing that I'm doing t
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Thanks Michael, that blank is one of my top picks right now...appreciate your comments
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Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the recommendations. (It's really tough to decide on a blank from a catalog description!) Again, really appreciated, Mike
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Agreed Jim, thanks! The SC3 series have been my #1 favorite cast/spin/fly blanks to build on through the years. I spend 90% of my personal fishing jigging for lake trout using those blanks (plus one from the SC4 line) and have been very, very pleased with them (...another positive, about any thread color goes well on the SC3's!) Thanks again, Mike
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Thanks Jim, Mike, & Scott - Spinnerbait blanks are new terrritory for me, I really appreciate your suggestions! Thank you - I was hoping for some model recommendations in the St. Croix lineup, I've always enjoyed building on their 3 and 4 series of blanks. Many Thanks again, Mike.
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I've searched the archives to no avail... Hoping for some help choosing a quality, designated spinnerbait-only casting blank - 7', med/ XF. Thanks for suggestions, appreciated!
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Thanks Chris, I appreciate the tip!
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Thanks Tom and John, appreciated, I'll give it a shot. I guess it won't hurt to try gluing it up since it will be turned on a mandrel rather than the blank itself.
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...recently found a box of white-birchbark that I harvested around the end of 2006. Not too sure what qualities to look for, but I was hoping to resurrect it and put it to use for a grip. Wondered how to bring it "back to life" if possible (H20 bath?), most of it still seems fairly flat, flexible, and intact. Thanks - comments are sincerely appreciated, Mike
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Thanks Scott, appreciated!
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...sooo, after shaping/sanding, there's no need whatsoever to prep (seal, etc.) the surface of urethane (8# density) grips prior to flocking, right? Just making sure! Thanks, appreciated, Mike
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Thanks gang, I think that I'll stick with my usual rubberized, or black eva ring for the butt. Appreciate the help!
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Thanks guys, I also question the durability of a completely-flocked butt. Have some experimenting to do I guess!
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First attempt at flocking, using 8# foam for a (split) grip casting rod. Just wondered if adding a butt cap of eva, rubberized cork, etc., would be recommended or "considered the norm" as opposed to flocking the whole butt. Not sure how a entirely-flocked butt would hold up over time. Thanks for suggestions, appreciated, Mike
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Thanks Bill, I really appreciate your help and the info you previously sent me. Just wasn't sure if applying CP was necessary when using two coats of adhesive to ensure bonding. Looking forward to trying this out on some foam grips in the near future, sounds like a perfect match!
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