I do a lot of long butt wraps like on the Rodmaker Gaff, 12-16 inches long with a weave in the middle. Have done them up to 30 inches on longer gaffs and walking sticks. It usually takes two coats of Classic Coat to get a smooth finish where you can't feel the weave in the middle. My secret is to get the finish on, quicker is better, and when the entire wrap is coated, do about 20 or so brush
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Where are you located? What vintage Truline are you looking for(huge difference tween a 70's model and a 90's model)?
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Mike, I never tried to keep track cause I did them over a period of about 4 months whenever the mood would strike me. but each weave took an average of 4-5 hours. Each split diamond under each guide probably averaged 2-3 hours with finish etc-did them one at a time. so.... the 765H for my son with 6 guides and the two hardest weaves probably took around 30 hours total. Pretty quick considering
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I burn the ends like you said, works for me , they kind of melt into a tiny ball usually
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i use classic coat and don't have a problem with the 00, don't use it for wrapping guides only in butt wraps so never noticed a burnishing problem
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There are numerous books on doing butt wraps such as Clemens, Kirkmans, I think Billy 40 has patterns for sale, and the Visual Wrap program is highly recommended by those that have it. Also there are tapes and maybe dvds, on how to do crosswraps. Not any harder than doing weaves imo. I try to keep the butt wraps simple since there is a weave going in the middle of it. email me and i'll give you
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I still use a lot of 00 black nylon gudebrod thread, also some 00 silk black thread, it matchs up well to fishhawk metallics in size, I use it for split diamonds among other things. I like skinny thread. I guy I learned alot about weaving from many years ago, Cam Clark, used it for weaves on fly rods. Smaller the thread diameter, the finer the look just like clothing.
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I use the plastic mixing cups and popicle sticks to mix, I turn the cup not the stick and get no bubbles. Mix for 2-3 minutes. One dram of each usually, if a butt is involved, then 5 cc of each. Always do the entire rod with one batch. I use Classic coat. Never have to heat to get rid of bubbles cause I don't get bubbles. I use the cheapo yellow and purple brushes.
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Mark, could you send me those pics also, thx
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I'm planning the same thing. Keep in mind that the first two guides should be at their normal spacing with the bumper in between. You can adjust the bumper as I did on my first bumper all ringed rod to get the line a bit closer to the blank. I like to clear the blank by a 1/4" or less. I've never had a problem with line rubbing on the blank on my acid rods with the line that close. John Ma
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I've been thinking of doing the same thing cause I don't like the striper guide offset as it can result in cut hypalon when on a big fish along with the new problem of line jumping out of the roller which I'm not convinced will happen in standup fishing by an experienced angler. I was gonna use the normal AA acid roller guide set I've had since they came out but your idea is even better as the a
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I have a 760M I built for my son, great 60# rod, the 760H is a great 80# rod. the 60 designates 6 feet, the 765 designates 6.5 feet long.
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Stan, I do not add extra turns, I don't know if I was lucky or what , but years ago I got graph paper that i've been copying ever since, to do the weave patterns and they just turn out to look on the rod just as they do on graph paper. But I've also done many of Doc's patterns esp his std yft and bft weaves in A and A and they turn out just fine also-many times I've had to alter his patterns wh
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I've been using Black A nylon for background or turning thread and gold or silver metallics in HT A for weave threads for years. The secret to no or small gaps fixable by burnishing, is to pack the black thread to the left after EVERY turn. sometimes easier said than done but if you do, and then burnish well, gaps will be minimized or not visable I like minimal black thread on either side of the
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tip-dremel tool butt-10" cuttoff saw
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i've also shrink tubed over cork that got beat up and cord, gives a much nicer feel than straight cord but is less grippy(less blisters though)
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On long range trips out of San Diego, you'll see many variations of foregrips the most common is straight hypalon. If their is potential for the hypalon to get beat up from the rail or continous pulling on big fish, some have used the shrink wrap you refer to with conflicting results. I've used that for years for various purposes such as you propose and on jig sticks or other rods where no reel s
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The bass weave I posted a couple of weeks ago is a 50 thread pattern done in all A thread and it fit nicely on a very skinny GUSA blank. I did it over a butt wrap so it wouldn't wrap around as much as if I'd done it on just the blank. I like to be able to see the entire weave when I'm holding the rod fishing. If you stick to using A thread you'll be just fine on your rods especially if you do the
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Ed's Whopper Stoppers are a special Calstar blank that nobody but him can get from Calstar and Ed won't sell just the blanks, I tried several years ago.
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Hey guys, he said a standup rod not a trolling rod. Scott, I resonded to your email, got your auto spam blocker message, filled it out as requested, and got another auto message and deleted it. Let me know if you didn't get my reply. Tuff to get through to you
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I've built many such spiral wrapped rods although the longer 765 series using the FUGI Sic LRSG turbo guides. I use the #20 guide on the 765l and #25 guide on heavier rods for line clearance. In S Calif we don't use smooth butts cause they are too slippery.
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My Tweaker rod which I posted pics of several weeks ago was used to catch a new world record yellowfin tuna which weighed in at 403 pounds. The lucky angler used a Penn jigmaster reel and 40# Bass Pro line. IGFA certification is pending. Stay tuned for updates and progress reports.
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I was being serious, I wouldn't joke about important things like that, well................. maybe once in awhile Actually, my youngest son(age 25, high school english teacher) has chin fuzz but not as long as Billy......................... but my son is smart and doesn't build rods, he lets me build them for him............................................. maybe I need some chin fuzz.........
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re Billy- It's the chin fuzz, he doesn't even realize he doing it cuz the fuzz effects the brain cells like drugs, not implying he does drugs, nor to say there is anything wrong with those that do..........................................now guys with chin fuzz that do drugs, they got real problems........................ Note to self - revise Skinny Thread Club by-laws regarding chin fuzz,
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I've gone a month between coats of Classic Coat and never had a seperation, I'll do a butt wrap and not put a weave on it for weeks, then weeks later add the guide at the end of the butt wrap and coat it all again. I currently have 8 rods in various stages of completion, several I've been working on for 6 months( split diamond wrap under each guide and two complicated weaves on each rod-I work on
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I use a lot of Gudebrod nylon in 00 size which is smaller than A. they also make the 00 in silk but it isn't as strong as the nylon, I use it in my split diamonds along with FishHawk metallic which is closer to the 00 in size than the Gudebrod A.
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I've found the J Metallic thread to be the weakest of the metallic threads I've tried including the Gudebrod, Rice and FishHawk brands. the only color I use is the antique gold for trim accents. I wouldn't recommend it for guide wraps, for that I like HT metallic A which is also my thread of choice for weaves.
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What I do with patterns from Doc and others is graph them out before doing the weave-it doesn't take that long to do that-I use small size graph paper. That way you can see if you like what its gonna look like when you weave it. It will also allow you to detect mistakes in the left list prior to doing the weave which is much better than after the weave!! It will also allow you to make any chang
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I second Putter's advice, I wrap all my tiptops and also use 5 min epoxy for the tips, I've seen too many tips come loose on trips-doesn't happen with the epoxy.
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When I first started wrapping, I bought good quality sable brushes. they were a pain in the butt to clean. My mentor at the time recommended the cheap yellow and purple flexcoat throwaway brushes that he used. I tried them and could see no difference in the finish after drying. I've been using the cheapies for over ten years now with Classic Coat and never had a complaint about my finish work.
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