What kind of butt wrap did you put on it? Put any weaves on it? If yes, single or color change weave?
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once you put finish on the black metallic it looks the same as black nylon
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I've done dozens of names and initials with HT A metallic thread(and hundreds of other weaves) with no problems as you describe. See my last picture post of initials done in such thread.
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I gently roll my weaves before and after I pull them tight when finished. I use HT A for the vast majority of my weaves, see the wahoo and initials pic I just posted both with HT A. HT is great for weaving cause it's so strong.
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Aren't these the grips that were ripped off from Scott Throop? Merrick is stooping quite low these days, even used Scotts picture on their website I'm told.
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I buy double sided carpet tape at Home Depot that works just fine and use it at both ends of crosswraps.
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I've seen some of Marks cord wrapped handles in person, never seen anything like it before or after. Just outstanding work!!!
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3 coats should be plenty if it's the normal flexcoat. I get a glass like finish with 3 coats of Classic coat on my A thread crosswraps, remember to use long length wise strokes to level out the finish- i do it while the rod is turning on my dryer after a couple minutes. Use of the thin finishes would require many more coats to get a smooth final finish.
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Temecula is a bit far for me to drive but I'd make one in Del Mar especially if you have good snacks and diet coke.........
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email me , I can probably lend a hand also, I'm in Bay Park across from Mission Bay
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I tried to post this info and I think it got removed so in case it wasn't, i'll try again. Try using a thicker expoxy like Classic Coat which is what I've used for years. I commonly do crosswraps up to 18" and usually with a weave in the middle. I end up with a glass like smooth finish with no waves or bumps. What works for me is after the finish is applied, I do approx 25 brush strokes th
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Tim, Luc's rodbuilder, Jim T, could do this for your friend. He is one of the best wrappers in S. Calif. Call Luc for more info
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Funny, I use the LRSG and will try the new HBSG #25 as a stripper on my heavier tuna rods cause I like the fact that the #25 sits higher off the blank thereby helping to keep the line from rubbing the hypalon when a big tuna puts a bend in the rod. I acid wrap but don't care for the bumper setup and use the 2nd and 3rd guides to get the line under the rod. Classic case of diff strokes for diff f
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I'm clueless here, why would you want to lower the stripper guide especially a #25????
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THe C4X was one of the first blanks John Collins, Truline originator, designed and it was designed as an anchovie casting rod for casting small live baits which explains it's whippy tip action. I've caught tuna up to 30# on mine but rarely use it anymore as we've had sardines for bait the last 5 years and haven't needed such a rod. I usually fished mine with 20-25# line. It could handle more but
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Check out Casio's line, many avail on @#$%&, I use their black tape with gold lettering on the back of my weaves, up to 4 lines can be printed very small which I prefer. Other color tapes including black on clear tape which I use on my looms is avail cheap on @#$%& also.
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Your email is blocked, email me and I'll send you some info regarding your request
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I've spiral wrapped(acid wrapped here on the west coast) several dozen tuna rods using the LRSG which is my favorite guide for rods up to 80# class. I just purchased the new Fugi HBSG guides to try on several. they look like the turbo guides but are siffer being made out of stainless verses the brass of the LRSG.
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that blank is rated for 50-60#, no way i'd use it for over 60#. at that line weight there is no need for roller guides in fact they will only hinder casting. I'd use Fugi turbo Sic guides either the brass lrsg or the new stainless turbos
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I had the kind you are looking for and bought it from Clemens many years ago. It stunk cause the spring tore up the threads especially metallic threads. Plus it was only good for 55 threads. Look for one that uses foam to hold the threads, much superior and usually far cheaper than the old wooden loom. Your email is hidden or I'd send you other info. Email me if interested.
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for you yes, for him no. You'd never find anybody in my area willing to wrap and finish rods for $20. I love to barter also, but it has to be a win-win for both sides. This doesn't appear to be that. Maybe you can get Billy to wrap for you at those prices......lol
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I think what matter is with which hand you're turning the handle. I use bait caster type reels with the handle on the right so I want my guides to spiral to the left so its easy to use my left hand to level the line on the reel as I'm bringing in line.
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I've done diamond wraps with all metallic up to 36" long(on gaffs). I soak the wrap with flexcoat cp to lock the threads in place and prevent bubbles. I never have had a problem with bubbles. I use Classic Coat.
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another place that has double stick tape is golf supply stores as they use it to put on club grips
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Scott, I sent you an email the turning motor is one speed and strickly for turning grips etc, works great
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I have a clemens lath from the mid 1990's and recently purchased a Renzetti thread carriage and heavy duty motor. The bases did not fit my beds and I had to buy Clemens bases. Clemens parts are still avail.
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different strokes for different folks. I've tried different combination and have found I like the look of using A size for both the weaving and the turning threads, it gives the smoothest edges to the weaves. Using larger sizes gives a blocky look to the weaves imo. I just posted a weave using A gold metallic with A nylon black for the turning thread as an example
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The secret is long brush strokes the entire lenght of the butt wrap while the wrap is slowly turning in the dryer. I usually do a 12 inch butt wrap and it usually takes 2-3 coats max of Classic Coat to give me a glass smooth finish. don't use the thin stuff unless you want to do many coats.
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Check out the FishHawk silver metallic, about the size of the old gudebrod A metallic, but much stronger and tighter weave. I use it a lot and like it, other colors just as good.
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A guide wrapped with the threads soaked with CP verses a guides with the wraps soaked with finish. How can the cp guide not be a lot weaker???? Not to say the cp guide won't hold up but the guide with no cp and finish on each wrap will be much stronger. Its relatively easy to remove a guide with a razor blade where cp has been used. Its a real pain in the butt to remove a guide with finish o
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