Well, thank you for all the wonderful advice. I'm going to have to use the Pro Kote again this week, so I'll try and incorporate the many suggestions in this thread. I'll let you guys know how it goes!
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Bill, most of the bubbles were in the epoxy. You're correct, the ones on top burst when I used the straw to breath on them. I did use an alcohol lamp for heat, but I worried that I would apply too much and only increase the amount of bubbles. I do have DNA, so maybe I can give it a shot. Matt, I will try folding the next batch that way. I'll try using a popsicle stick which is flat. Thank you
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Just for clarification, I am not blaming the product. If it sounded that way, I'm sorry. I'm frustrated and want to do a good job on the next rod. I'm just looking for help. Thank you for the link. Tom, why did you edit my post? Did I do something wrong?
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I just used Pro Kote high build for my latest rod and was very upset at how it turned out. I ordered from Mudhole, so the product was new, including syringes. I used 3cc part a and b. Mixed by hand slowly in a small plastic shot glass and then transferred to a metal pan (purchased from Mudhole). I then blew on it with a straw to try and get rid of the bubbles. It didn't work well. No worries, th
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Will do Billy!
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Thanks Tom. I'll have to drive about 11 hours, so I want to make sure I can see them up close. If I like one, I'll probably buy it.
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I'm considering purchasing a power wrapper and was curious if I were to attend the ICRBE, if that would provide me the opportunity to see most of the major brands? So far I've looked at that Renzetti and Flex Coat brands online, but I'd really like to see them at work. Thanks!
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I found you can buy different size orthodontic rubber bands online.
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David, thank you for the information. I have used orthodontic bands before and they work OK. I will check out the mudhole tubing and maybe I can add that to my order, since my titanium guides are on backorder....grrr. Thank you for the suggestions!
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Awesome information guys! I do plan on using locking wraps on my single footed guides. I decided to go no smaller than 5.5 guides on these 2 rods and we'll see how that works for me. Now, I just have to prepare myself to deal with micros as they can frustrate me..lol.
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Michael, I'm building this rod for pitching. I plan on building a conventional rod, not a spiral. I ordered Fuji KW, KB, and KT titanium guides. I've only built one micro guide rod, so we'll see how this goes. I actually have two of these Rainshadow Immortal blanks I'm building. I have never built a spiral rod. My next project will be a fly rod, as my son wants me to build him one.
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Thank you for the additional advice Norman. I'm going to build a couple different ways based on Michael, David and Norman's advice. I'm really looking forward to using these rods. After this, I'm going to try and build a fly rod...so you'll be hearing from me again! lol.
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Lynn, thank you for the reference to the other post and Happy New Year to you as well! Michael and David, thank you for taking the time to reply. I just get nervous when trying to decide, because there are so many darn choices, it's quite confusing! Anyway, I'll be keeping it to a couple different sizes and for me the lighter the better. I always appreciate when people with the experience take
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My search was limited, because I didn't change the date range, so I was limited to 30 days. Thank you for posting Lynn. I have a G-Loomis that uses 12, 10, 8, and then 7s. Is this a common set up? I'm using low profile baitcasters for pitching and was curious if that would play into what I would choose.
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I'm trying to learn how to know what size guides I need for a casting rod. I saw in the library the spinning guide tutorial, but didn't see one for casting. I'm thinking of using Fuji guides, but I want very good guides on this rod, so any suggestions would help. Also, how do I know what sizes to order? I appreciate any help, or links to information that may explain this process. Thank you.
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I appreciate all the information given in this thread. Thank you so much!
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Yes Grant, it's a diamond butt wrap. Bill, I'm using ProKote, which is pretty thin already, do you still think I need to thin it more?
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I finished a diamond wrap and want to know how you epoxy the wrap. Do you just epoxy the thread part, or do you epoxy the space between also (meaning the blank)? I was thinking it would be easier to just spread out epoxy over the whole area, instead of just the thread and let it self-level. I don't have an under wrap, just the diamond pattern created using "A" thread. I appreciate any f
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Great information! I've been tinkering with this for several years, but I'm just now getting back into it in a more serious way. Thank you so much everyone!
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Thanks everyone for all the tips and encouragement! Lynn, when you say "a better finish" what do you mean? Or, maybe I should ask what is a better finish?
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Thank you Tom and Michael. So, in regard to a dryer going "too slow" how fast should a dryer rotate? As I said, mine is a one speed dryer purchased from Mudhole and I don't recall how fast it rotates, but it looks like the American Tackle dryer (9 rpms) they advertise seen in this link.
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Tom, I got the idea, maybe incorrectly on my part, from reading the article "A Better Epoxy Finish" in the library. My understanding was if you apply to much then "footballs" will form and/or wavy finishes. I guess I'm just struggling to get my finishing to look even, so maybe I'm adding too much epoxy at first thinking I can wick away the excess when done and it'll prove to b
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I guess this question may not be limited to ProKote, but it's what I currently use. I like the time it allows me when applying to my guides and I don't feel rushed. I've read and watched videos on this (Tom's video was great), but I'm curious and want help regarding this issue I've noticed. After applying my first coat, oftentimes I can see thread lines under the epoxy, which is OK, so I add a se
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I tend to get the same result. Roger, when you say "use considerable tension" what do you mean exactly? When you cut the thread and put it through the loop and start to pull it tight to the wrap where do you apply tension? Or, are you talking about tension on the thread once it's pulled through, but just prior to cutting it?
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Nevermind, a pair of channel locks and a thick rag and I busted it loose.
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I haven't built many rods and I have accidentally epoxied a spinning reel seat to where I can't adjust it. The screw on the seat won't move now! Is there anything I can do to loosen this part so I can adjust the reel seat, or is it shot?
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Thanks everyone for the input!
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I've searched for a pink rod blank and can't find any that won't fade due to UV. Lamiglass had one, but it will eventually fade. Does anyone know a company that produces a quality blank and paints them with UV protection? I've read on this forum that some people use auto body shops to paint their blanks. What do you ask for when you request they paint a blank? Obviously pink paint, but is there a
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Brian, could you please email me? I'd like to discuss some possibilities with you in regard to my blanks. My email is: matt_attak99@yahoo.com
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Randolph Ruwe Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I can't say that I agree with Tom about the value > of the blanks. Sage no longer makes anything but > Fly Rod Blanks, and there is a demand for the > steelhead, spinning and salmon blanks they made > before they went stricktly fly. I could advertise them here and elsewhere and see if there is
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