The lack of porosity is the reason cork was used on fishing nets to keep them afloat for years before Styrofoam.
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I would wipe them down with a solution of 10% bleach and 90% water. Should cure the problem.
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I believe I would make sure the extension fit into the butt a minimum of 4".
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Use the vacuum cleaner with the little round brush on it or just use any other soft brush while vacumming. If you want it darker use Cork seal.
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Check and see if the scratches are where you are going to wrap, if so don't worry about it.
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OK John, apply multiple thin coats of whatever finish, either oil or Perma gloss with a quality brush while the wood is turning. Brush on as the wood turns, and then brush in the direction of the grain. Not allowing for any excess to build up and create sags, then keep the wood turning at a slow speed until tack free. Hope that is better.
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Perma Gloss works great on wood. Apply multiple thin coats until you get the desired effect..
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As far as wrapping the guides, I would go with size C underwraps, D wraps, and E overwraps. Trying to wrap over E thread with C thread is difficult at best to get a smooth, good looking wrap.
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Just your personal preference, 1,2,3,4. Whatever looks good to you.
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My wife broke the salmon rod I made her on her first fishing trip. She hooked a 14# Lingcod and I told her to raise the tip, so she slid the butt of the rod to the deck, and grabbed hold of the blank 2 feet from the tip and gave it a quick jerk up. Snap!! I was laughing so hard I couldn't be upset. She landed the Lingcod and thought it was beautiful. She's been hooked on fishing ever since.
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Nearly any wood is ok for reel seat insets except balsa. Some cedars will have a nice grain and some small knots that will be attractive. I prefer more figured wood for the inserts, it sets the rod off as being custom built. Tru oil will work fine for a finish.
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You can turn it to shape first and then glue it to the end of the grip, or depending on your lathe and how long the blank is you can reverse the blank, making sure that you don't damage the blank with the jaws of the chuck and then turn it on the blank just as you did the rest of the grip.
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John, I asked about the affect of acetone on silk, because I didn't know what it would be. I have never used silk. Just curious. Randy
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If the guide tips forward, put the forward lean to the tip. If straight up and down and double foot with curved uprights on one side, place the curved side to the butt.
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Why not try to fray or unravel the end of the cord and then wrap over it?
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Phillip, putting in the fridge is probably one of your problems. It will work best if it is at room temperature 70 degrees or a little higher
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Tom is right on. I never use heat to speed up the drying of CP. Let it flow and wick off the excess as described.
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After wicking off the excess, turn the rod so the guide is facing down. May be difficult if you are doing a spiral wrap on the guides. I have never had a problem with air in the guide foot tunnels, so I haven't experienced this problem, but if I did that is what I would try.
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Either one will work just fine for this.
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Is acetone going to melt the silk, I don't know, just curious
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When I put on CP, I put on a soaking coat, then move to the next guide until all are done, then go back after wiping the brush off and wick away any excess.
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Use some Elmer's glue and sanding from cork and make your own filler. Looks better than anything else. Put some cork sandings in a cup and add the glue and mix it up well to a consistency where you can spread it where you want, let dry and then sand it.
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Trondak cork seal.
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I would use an 11' to 13' noodle blank rated for 2-8# test line.
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It is not that difficult to apply the varnish with a cheese cloth pad and wiping the blank with it. Do multiple thin coats that won't take so long to dry.
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I believe nice chestnut brown would work well
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Are you talking about fly fishing while floating or what? I don't quite understand what type of rod you wish to build. Fly or Centerpin type?
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Depends on the material the reel seat is made of. For some of the polymer/graphite seats you can use a jewelers saw, chrome plated brass or aluminum you would be better off with a cut-off saw. Clean up the cut edges with a sanding disk or belt, and then clean up any ridges left inside the open end with a round or half round file.
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John I do exactly the opposite of you I guess. I have for over 40 years used the finest quality Sable brushes for my finish applications and have always done one guide at a time. I know there a lot of rod builders who do exactly as you describe and I am glad it works for you. More than one way to skin a cat. :>) One question I have for the spatula users is this, when you apply a thin fi
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Rolly, Why do you do that??
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