you will find most builders apply at a fast rate 20 RPM to 50 RPM an some even faster, the drying rate is slow . 5 to 15 RPM after a few rode's you will find out what you like I use 8 RPM to dry an 32 RPM to apply , what I found was applying at the faster rate I get a better finish on my guides clean an crisp, watch the FLEX COAT demo movies [ YOUTUBE ] , he applied at a fa
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why don't you call an do you call them not to blunt but do the leg work
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I will pay the extra $$ for the guides it is cheaper that making my own, an it is a high cost item , in time I hope the price will go down but for now I will pay an use a good an proven product
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Finger to fast sorry
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NOTE I was told to not use any BURL cork rings on the ends, it breaks off, use natural rings or RUBBER cork rings, will hold up longer , not all rubberized rings are the same color, there are light an dark rings depends of the supplier , this only goes for the start an stop rings on your handles , if you use color BURL rings the color fades fast as the color is on the cork not
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if you use BRAIDED line make sure you clean it with some DA or rubbing as it has a coating on the BRAID that don't stick well with your wrap , you only do it once to clean the BRAID then you are good to go till you loose it an make a new one, { I use 8 LB BRAID }
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Snake brand, snake guides are the best , they have 2 types one for the bamboo [ feet are flat ] an one for the glass / carbon, [ that one has the feet curved to fit the rod ] on the lower section of rod not to important but on the upper section it makes a big difference , they curve to the rod , 2 colors, chrome & black , you don't have to prep the feet at all, ready to install
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all the different ways work it is just hard to teach an old dog new tricks & it goes for wrapping rods / guides we learn one way that works for us, we will never change our ways my 2 CTS
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the guides are some of the best I have ever used for fishing Salmon on the river
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if the section of rod is open on both ends plug one end largest dia. plug with a cork an fill with DA let set then fish it out with a hooked coat hanger , if not open on both ends fill with DA let set am then fish it out .
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As Bill said go to your local Big Box store they should have what you want , [ Home depot ., Lows , Ace , or Walmart ] you should have one of them or something like it , or a store like it, if you use heat to thin it also speeds up the set time , so play around with scrap to see what time you will have to work on it
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....hit the button twice sorry
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try E BAY good source for what you want
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the wrap should be out to the end of the ferrow but if it was the wraps will be falling off all the time 1/32 to 1/16 inch back will work just fine , dont get the flex coat in the hole , use a filler of some sort the frist time to find out how it goes , DA & Q tip will clean it out if you do mess up just an Idea
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under wrap is to potect the blank when flexing a lot [ we hope big fish ] over wrap is to aid the flex coat hold the guide on . what I think
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this your rod you can do as you wish enjoy your project when finished if you don't like it re do it what have you got to loose , an you will gain by the experance of the build I think other will give there 2 CTS I am sure
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to befairLast year I order 2 blanks as directed from there web site an both blanks were the same but the tips were not as stated on the web site , called them up an explaned my problem an they took care of the problem with 2 new tips [ FREE ] so I was extreamly happy with the out come , even the blank maker was off so it made ne hole an was extreamly happy , good fishing Bil stuff happen
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Click here: 30 Cork Rings 2"x1 2" Grade B Bore 1 4" Very RARE Size | @#$%& found this on E bay the problem you will have is the quality is not the best , the best quality goes for the 1 1/4 size, they sell more , money counts , where they can make the most for there BUCK now , my 2 CTS
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what are you saying makes no sence to me or am I going crazy ????????
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it is like a FORD or Chev . they are the same but different it is personal taste I think , good luck on your endovor
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have you called some of the jobbers on the feft of this page, ask them what they have ? they see a lot of different rods , most of the jobbers know what is avalible ion the market today, they want to sell you a rod an stuff they stock, it is there liverly hood , SID
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pipe will do what you want . there are some other options, driill bits, Foster, wood bit spade bit ,3 different types do what you want , your choice
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the only problem you can't move them to aline them after wraping if you use hot glue , as it takes me a long time to line them up , try rubber bands thin ones, strech an wrap around the rod 2 or 3 times tie it off an clip leave a pigtall about 1 inch long , this will help to pick up part of the wrap to install the foot under it all methods above will work for you , it is just what you have on
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Just a tidbit if you want to try MICRO BALLOONS in smaller amounts try your local RC HOBBY STORE they use it all the time building RC planes an boats
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as stated before a little goes a long way don't be to heavy on the color / pigment you can add more on the next coat if unhappy or want it heavyer,
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as long as the man payes the bill make it for him it is his money , but it is odd but like Terje stated it hurt after 3 1/2 hrs of fighting a 130 FISH
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if the seat is solid you can try some heat to sofen the epoxi but don't hold your breath , for the most part the seat is on there an the easyest way to remove it is to cut an install a new one if you count your time as money that is the fastest way , in pass threads if you look up on this forum lots of people have tried but few have accomished it , most just replace the seat , some use heat gu
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I have an use it, if I have a bubble that are hard to bust , it works fine for me for me
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what ever works for you, don't for get you will have to move the guides some when you finish the wrap , an to pull the tag end in
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