I've converted M&M vols 1-5 and 7 to pdf, but cannot find volume six. If there is a volume 6, and someone knows the title, please let me know so I can find it in a search. Thanks, Jeremy Reed
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If no lathe and you're a little oversized, put a hose clamp around the end of your grip and tighten it up. This will compress the cork enough to slip inside the back of the seat. Let it sit over night then take the clamp off and it should slide into the back of it.
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If no lathe and you're a little oversized, put a hose clamp around the end of your grip and tighten up. This will compress the cork enough to slip inside the back of the seat.
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If you end up getting the Mudhole jig, the saw works, but you'll break a lot of blades. Search my prior posts (I don't have many). I had an issue with some of my glue ups so I posted for some help. In the responses, someone suggested that a saw works better for these jigs, and included a link in their post that goes to the a saw that fits the jig. It's around $6; I bought 2 and they're aweso
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Thanks for the help. It looks like I hit jackpot with the bookstore suggestion. jwr
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NOT a Louisville guy, just live in the area. From western KY, and a UK fan....not a dirty bird fan. After the game tonight, I'm thankful we have a basketball program. Casey, are you in the Louisville area? jwr
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I have a police officer here in Louisville that wants me to build his soon to be wife a fishing rod wedding gift. Problem is, he wants a decal with her university on it, which I cannot find because it's a smaller school. The wedding is not till the spring, so I'm getting an early start. I do not have the decal paper or a printer to make this myself. Could someone point me in the right to dire
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Mr. Barkley - Just ordered 2. I definately hate using the jewelers saw, it works, but it's also very time consuming and flimsy. I've been looking for a replacement for it, but couldn't find anything to fit into the slots. Thanks for suggesting the razor saw. jwr
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Thanks for the replies. Jig is the mudhole jig and saw.
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I recently bought a cutting jig for cork. I've done a handful of grips with checkers now and have run into a problem on a few of them. When I glue up the cork, all the glue lines are parrallel and everything squared up. I put it on the lathe to turn it and sand it and somehow the inlays and whatnot get whopperjawed. Then have a slight slant to them. Before I glue up the cork, I drill out
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Check out the thread below - "Micro Spiral Wrap." It's a good start. I haven't built a spiral yet, but will be on my next build also, it looks like most start with a couple double foot guides, ranging from 10 - 6. I'm planning on using 3-4 transition guides then 4s to the tip. Probably will be 8df, 6df and then finish out with 4s
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I've got a few people wanting catfish rods built for spinning. It needs to be cable of handling 4-5oz.. The blank one of them uses now is a gander mountain blank 6'6" IM8 rated 1-5 oz, and he uses 40lb braid. He's wanting graphite for the sensitivty and for the style he fishes. I've recently got the mudhole eglass value blank i'm going to cut down and a crb H action rod, but not sure if
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I'm looking to do the same thing. I'd like to trim one of the new MHX 6'6" high mod models down to 6', but not sure which one I need to do. It needs to be able to throw a 3/16, and medium action. Would the HM-MB783-MHX work? It will be set up as a spinning rod. By the time I trim 6" off, I would guess the power should be around a medium to medium light. Thanks, Jeremy W. Reed
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He walks with the tip down and will be throwing spooks as big as 7/8oz. I'll drop the handle length down to 8". . If he works the bait with tip up, are there any changes that need to be made? Thanks
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I need some help selecting a blank. I've got a customer wanting a topwater casting rod. He's looking to throw spooks and lures in that range with 50# braid. From my search on here, it looks like a popping blank may work, so I was thinking a med-hvy 7' popping blank MHX, and spiral wrap that with a 8df, 6df, 4s to tip, and 9 1/2" full cork grip, with a fuji ecsm seat. Thoughts? Recommen
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see "wide messages" to understand this last post
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....see "wide messages" to understand this post
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I'm going to go ahead and post Last message on each of his last posts and we should be back to normal. jwr ---I just posted on the last messages, and now my screen is back to normal since Schnieders rods is no longer the longest name
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I noticed that too. I think I have it figured out. The admin has the settings set on the "Last Post" column to where the whole name shows on one line. This happened when Schneiders Rods posted....his is the longest name, so the column set to that width and adjusted the others on page 1. Now click on page 2, where he has not posted....you'll notice the columns go back to normal of wh
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I was watching ESPN the other Saturday morning with my daughter (7 months old), and it was showing recaps from the first half of the B.A.S.S. season, and when they were showing Shaw Grigsby's win, they had a lot of film of him pitching, etc....It was an all black rod, had a custom shaped rear grip and had a large diameter butt. It was definately not a factory rod. I'm guessing the Seeker blank.
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Awesome. It's nice to be involved in a craft where information is so freely shared. What Mills said above really demonstrates the type of people invovled in this craft. Thanks for the help. Jeremy W. Reed
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First, thanks, Tom; I got my first Rodmaker magazine this past weekend. I have a years subscription, and the 2-9 cd on the way. I've been building rods less than a years, just turned 31 so my wife and baby got me the 2-9 cd and the Guide cd. Looking forward to reading through all the past articles. Second, in the recent Rodmaker Magazine, Mr. Forhan makes a mention in his article, "L
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x2 on the castaway blanks for graphite.
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I recently did a UofL themed build on a castaway xp3 965 (trimmed to 7'10") for a customer (actually it was my first build for a customer since I've started), and with Mr. Stevens' advice, I ran all micro 4's on top. I used Fuji K for the build ss alconites. I believe I ended up using 10 guides. I ended up deciding to put the butt guide at 22" from the top of the real seat threads a
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They are the same metallics. They also have some embroidery thread in the big spools for $4.99, I figured I could use these on decorative wraps.
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JoAnns Fabrics has their 50% off sale going on all threads. How is Sulky thread for tiger wraps? I've read where you do not want to use this as a guide wrap, but haven't seen much about anything else. I did find out that their metallics are supposed to be some of the best from my searches, so I'm headed back tomorrow to pick some up. Thanks, Jeremy W. Reed
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How does the XP840 compare to the IP840? Any noticeable difference? On the minima setup, would the following work 16m-12m- rest 4s or 12m-6m-4s ? Other setup? Thanks, jwr
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I'm about to order a couple IP840s to build as a panfish rod for someone and myself. Typically, my spinning outfits have been 25-16-10-7-4s to tip or 25-16-10-4s to tip. I'm looking to use possibly the minima guides or the k series. It is going to be built as a split grip. Not sure if I'll use a TN handle or a aero seat. What setup is best for panfish? K-series - 20-12-8-4s to
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I'm in the same boat, my wife, 7 month old, and I are headed to destin late August. I was thinking of building some type of pier rod. I've built bass/freshwater rods but never something for this. Is there good pier fishing down there and what type of setup (blank, guides, etc) would be used? Thanks jwr
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Tom Kirkman Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > But nothing about when they are appropriate or > exactly size guide they are referring to as a > "micro." > > Mass market appeal is what they are attempting to > determine, not performance or function. > > ........... Being new to building. when would micros not be desire
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