i can handle almost any flaw in a rods construction but looking down a rod and seeing it curve to one side or the other makes me ill..it,s just got to be built on the straightest axis..i couldn,t care less about spine..it,s just a lot of clap-trap..and boy this hobby has a lot of that for some reason..
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i recall about seventy years ago going down to the creek and cutting off a tree branch, tying a white string on the thin end, tying on a hook and stabbing on a worm..wading out into the creek and swinging the worm around and hitting spots exactly along the bank catching what ever..that branch-rod had twists and bends in it but nothing bothered my accuracy..like Tom said, the cast goes in the dire
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Dufford, i,m not telling you any of my secrets either, nah! nah!..lol.
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an exacto knife makes a great handle for holding small plastic spatulas that you have cut for different widths..easy to change to another size..
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of late, i,ve been using china marker to locate the masking tape then wiping off the china marker with isoprople before starting the guide wrap..
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on rods that are used to free hung lures in heavy cover i use epoxy heavily on the guide wraps..all other rods get three or four coats of a one part CP/ finish which is still much lighter than one coat of epoxy especially if the first coat is a saturation coat..
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same problem here..i thought the CP over the thread would block it out but all it did was to color preserve the blotch..lol.
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i have built this type rod with #2 fly rods with flex into the butt to protect very thin lines and thin wire hooks..i didn,t want a strong butt and didn,t be concerned about rod bounce..i was casting mainly a fly called the Zonker i tied on a #10 or #8 hook..no body just a zonker strip pulled over the hook with small bead chain eyes..no weight to the fly until it got wet but with 1# test fire lin
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then we will build wonderful drones with fishing rods attached, do some trolling..no problem..lol.
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i really like their E-Glass rods for building what i call bush rods..only 4 to 41/2' rods to use bank fishing in tight spaces..they make great bow and arrow shooting rods and E-Glass really flexes..if you wack one on a tree, it doesn,t break the bank just the rod..lol.
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yes, the three cornered file..i was using a 6", then went to 8", much faster and just as clean..
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lately i,ve been using a one part water soluble finish/CP which cleans with tap water from U-40..
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if i wanted to cast a jig that light, i would use a gel spun line with the smallest diameter i could find..check out Hitena,s lines, they are most uniform in diameter..
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i agree Roger but so far i have gotten by with just rubbing alcohol..
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That looks like Cone of Fright spacing with only five guides..lol.
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Roger, there,s another solvent that bothrs me..it,s called Toulene, it starts with a grave marker..i think they are trying to tell us something..lol.
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Thanks Mark..
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i don,t like any solvent whos name starts with an "X"..lol.
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Pete, could be a different line level on the > spools..just a thought. most spin reels come with spacers that fit behind the spool so that you can adjust how the line builds up on the spool..i like to get a level line build..
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Pete, could be a different line level on the spools..just a thought.
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i think most commercial builders use a spatula or even a popsicle stick..no brush issues.
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so if one model is 6 ounces the other is 63/8 ounces..lol. i was probably going to put 3/8 in the butt anyway..lol.
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Mark, after looking again to remarks made by Seeker, they are talking about salt water rods and not bass rods as noted in the heading..their remarks are on the wrong page..very misleading to the slow witted..lol..so you stand correct..sorry for the confusion..
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Mark, i was going on Seekers definition of S-Glass as written on Anglers Workshop site for rod blanks..please take time to read it, i,d be interested in your thoughts..it,s on the page for Seeker S-Glass bass rods..someone is full of prunes as Emory Harry used to say..lol..probably me..lol.
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Michael, i laughed a little at your comment about using a spin reel on a casting rod with braid..it is so true it hurts..i built a four foot bush rod that has 7 #4 running guides and a #6 butt guide that casts with 10# power pro about 60' and bow and arrow casts 40 to 50' a quarter ounce rattle trap..i put a shimano caster on it and still get 60'..i need to try a fly line about a 4 or 5 weight ju
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so S-Glass is short for Seeker-Glass..which is a sandwich of E-Glass and a graphite cloth making it a composite..there is no stand alone fiberglass called S-Glass because S-Glass is a composite..
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Spencer, from what i read on Anglers Workshop the Seeker BS706S is a composite of E-Glass and graphite which they call S-Glass..it sounds like S-Glass is a by definition a composite..unless i misstood which is very possible..
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most of the time just taking the paint off the tip with a nail file does the trick..
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Keith, 4 to 6 wraps at the pull through may not be enough, especialy for D thread..i like to pull through and leave one inch of tag and apply CP before moving on to wrap the next guide and repeat..let CP dry ovenight and trim tags the next day..the long tags won,t get bumped loose as your working down the rod..
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must have been carbon because glass don,t break like that.(sung to the old jelly ditty)..lol.
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