I can,t find my dang scale..lol.
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I wonder what a foam core covered with a 1mm skin of granulated cork weighs?
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i just looked at the 6M guide on Mud Hole..Norm is correct..they are over 18mm..not runners for sure..i thought they were only 9 or 10 mm..yea, i wouldn,t use these for runners..
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why not just ask the people running the fly shop about the weight? or are they playing the same game..
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Quinn, that,s really the only way to learn..good > for you! just to add. use two or three coats of CP..if and when you cut the guides off the blank cleans up with isoprople like new..
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Quinn, that,s really the only way to learn..good for you!
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good points, David!
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Quinn, do as Roger suggested..your not going to see much difference one way or the other..you,ll probably leave just the CP on the the wraps and not cover with epoxy just for the weight difference..lol..if your using mono or flouro line the #6 guides are better anyway..
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David, those lines are probably meant for the higher air resistant dry flys, even bass bugs would give a better balance..i use 720grain spey shooting head line turned backwards to get the heavy end forward for extra large bass bugs..without a bug tied on the line is almost uncontrolable but with the bug tied on it cast smoothly even into a good wind..
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I was thinking to call it a By-Pass guide but then thought that sounded too much like a type of surgery..Rub-preventio-guide it is. my nephew got a new cat after the last ate a toad...i have a bad habit of renaming things..they named it Squigly..it,s an all black cat with emerald colored eyes..anyway i called him Shady(what else?)..i mean did you ever see a cat respond to a name, but i think it
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I was under the impression that just about all commercial rod makers thinned their guide wrap epoxy for better epoxy penetration of the wrap since it is too time consuming to use a wrap sealer like CP..this way it,s a one step one time process..
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Daren, just for giggles tape on four ceramics, all #6BLAGs...ceramics are so smooth the line easily flies through..you don,t need anything bigger on the butt..it,s just added weight..
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and the last to come out was the Kirkman Wrap or Simple Spiral which he introduced in Rod Maker magazine some dozen or more years ago..the Simple Spiral took all the mystery out of making the Wrap..
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like my nephew keeps reminding me..the world is 99% our perceptions and we are not going to change the world all we can change is our perceptions..Amen..lol.
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Thomas you must not be old enough to know that after a certain age you earned the right to be annoying..lol. don,t ask me how i know..
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the modulus of the rod is different Phil, not really better just different today..
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Robert, sounds like your and old shaker too..lol.
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P.hil, i,ll just add my two cents and say it,s a crankbait rod..being lipless is a description of it,s main use..these are mostly moderate action rods..i like glass rods for this especially since i use braided line..the idea is to make it harder for the fish to throw the bait loose..the head shaking is softer, less herky jerky like carbon is..
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Just shake it..lol.
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no, not whippy at all especially after being cut back to 41/2 feet..you,ll think it,s a carbon rod..lol.
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Jeff, you hit the nail on the head..these rods that cast a country mile are not worth a crap for fishing the distances we mostly fish at..but that,s all they talk about not about all the fish they catch.
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lol..play nice..
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I have built many of these for my own use and kids from E-glass blanks by cutting as much as two feet from the butt..they are very light and durable..
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ben belote Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > braided line takes all the mystery out of guide > size and placement because just about everything > works..i just finish making my third bow and arrow > bush rod using a 61/2' glass rod, cut up to make a > 5' rod that collapses to a 4' rod..the choke guide > is 19" from reel face and the but
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braided line takes all the mystery out of guide size and placement because just about everything works..i just finish making my third bow and arrow bush rod using a 61/2' glass rod, cut up to make a 5' rod that collapses to a 4' rod..the choke guide is 19" from reel face and the butt guide is 14" from the choke..the line runs from butt guide straight to the choke..i can B&A shoot up
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Joe, you make many good points..also, Tom has a newer edition of his Rod Building Guide coming out soon..
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Phil, he can brag about how little it cost too..that,s even more fun..lol.
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Scott Lawrence Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for the replys gentleman, I did start with > the stripper at 20 inches after some research on > previous posts. At 20 inches the line would come > down past blank in a deep bend. This blank bends > into the butt end, slow or parabolic I think. > Moved the stripper back about a inch and
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Scott, this looks like a fun build..probably for small crankbaits and spinners..as Rich Forhan would say, look at your reel..there,s the first guide..is it a #12 or 10 or 8, no..so why do you need a #12 second guide..i would go with a #6 and run out with 4s and use nine or ten guides total..you,ll hardly feel the guide train..i don,t see anything wrong with a 16" butt guide distance..these l
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Hi Frank, i,m just curious but what brand of CP did you use?
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