Jim Ising Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What I am gathering here is that maybe there is > not a single wrapper out there that allows the > scope of control offered by aftermarket > modifications. MANY guys who wrap by hand would > opt for a set-up with unlimited speed control and > a reversing feature - and the FAST guys could just >
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The RGeeks S Glass is in no way like the previous rods. It combines fiberglass and graphite scrim to provide optimum performance at a lighter weight putting the lighter graphite in areas that it needs to be. . You can call Mark Crupi or Bob Penicka at the rod Geeks and talk direct
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Jim... Rogers power wrapper is run by a DC motor and therefore he can run it at any speed and has the ability to run it in reverse. Correct me if I am wrong Roger.
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Thanks Norm for mentioning how light they are for the power especially in the SG70MHM . I am happy you like them and I agree if I were to have one it would be the Med Hvy. Luke didn't mention what length he was looking for so I thoughI should mention that I had two requests this past year for the S Glass in a 6'6" version. After consulting with Rod Geeks they said it was no problem to
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Luke you are right on target with the Rod Geeks S glass blanks. The first year they were in business I bought almost 15 of them. I have a good number of tournament bass anglers using their S Glass for not only crank baits but also chatter baits. The best news is the feedback I get is that they love them and don't lose the fish on the way back to the boat. For square bill you can go with ei
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To spend more time fishing with my children and grandchildren
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Congratulations to the past winners. It pretty well sums up why it is called the INTERNATIONAL Rod building expo the competition is good !!!
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X3 on the same setup as Robert. and it get used everyday. What I like about the power wrapper is you have the ability to do both, wrap by hand or under power. I also like the fact the blank is on rollers and very easy to turn by hand. On small guides by the time you clamp down the rod and start its time to tie off and unclamp the rod so I just wrap by hand. If I put thread inlays in th
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Lynn You don't put the tape all the way across the decal just on the ends. Also I use blue painters tape cut into a 1/2 inch strips and About an inch long. Good and sticky and doesn't leave a residue on the decal. Once tracked on the rod I'll roll it on with a rubber brayer to get it firm and roll out any air bubbles. Hope this helps Tom
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I would also like so see at least two decals included with the blank, like in the Rainshadows. No matter how good you are, there is always that one that gets an air bubble in it. And unless you have the Pearl 270 or better decal printer your stuck. It can't cost that much to include an extra decal? Tom
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Thanks Roger I will check it that's a good suggestion. Tom
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Thanks to everyone for your suggestions. I now have the guides removed and I feel confident that an outer sleeve over the break, once aligned will do the job. Merry Christmas Tom
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Thanks Tom. I have been following that guide on repairs to the letter and it really works well. I buy fiberglass rods at flea markets and use them for my sleeves. You think just leave it in tack and slide the sleeve over the break ?? Tom
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Was wondering what some of you think of what might be the best way to repair this rod. It's a 30 year old pistol grip 5'6" graphite rod. No name on the it!!! I'll fix at least 15 or more broken rods In a year,, most newer and most in the tip area. To date none have ever failed or at least I have not heard. What is the difference on this one is that it is not completely broken through
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Paul I have made several in the dark blue metallic below is the color I .used to match it up. Tom
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I totally agree with Norm and Yes Tom
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here is another source Tom
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Long tubes on conveyors is mostly the problem. They don't make the turns and the anvil coming behind it does the number !!
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Of all the major shippers Fedex is the only company that has NEVER broke a rod I have shipped. USPS is the worst. Tom
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How I do most of mine is to apply the decal right after your put on the handles and reel seat and before you wrap the guides. I gently heat the decal with a hair fryer before applying. In the winter I also warm up the rod blank. Then I wrap the decal in thread like you were doing an underwrap then hit it with a bit more warm air and let the decal stay under the thread until you are ready to ap
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Also on the nest few wraps paint the guide foot with white paint before you put them on the rod. that will eliminate the dark foot under the wrap. On small guide feet I use correction White Out over the foot. Dries super fast and works well Tom
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Northfork is making blanks for the Big name rod companies. Now if you were Gary who would you take care of, big numbers order from rod companies or a onesie twosie for a custom builder?? It is just business.
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I''l throw something else out there. There is a product that I have been using from St Croix it's called Piccolastic hydrocarbon resin #D125 !!! This is a crystal like salt, just scoop the tube full heat and slide the tip on with one rotation. It's hard as a brick, if you ever had the tip top glue come out the end and have to pick at it for five minutes to clean the tip, it won't happen.
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Norman Miller Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Everyone has an opinion as to what material they > like for a grip. I have used cork, EVA, carbon > fiber, and Winn grips. They all work very well, My > favorite is carbon fiber, but very few people I > build for have the same opinion. I have a number > of rods with different types of grip mate
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Phil you are spot on!!!
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Chuck McIntyre Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Ask the sender. Frankly,I I would refrain from > further discussions with anyone that butchers > their grammar,and the English language so badly. > That is if you quoted them via copy and paste. At > best,they may have been drunk. At the worst,clear > communication would be too trying. I ag
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I got this email today, asking for a rod built Interested in having 5 raw d’s built similar to marhiching I have. Would like quote on Bay rods. Lookforwardtoourconcsrsarion. (Sent via Tom's Custom Rods) Any clue what he wants ? Tom
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X2 on Roger Wilson's comments
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Brian Bowers Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I wanted to close out this thread (pun intended) > since I found the problem. On the third attempt > for the cross wraps, I switched to Fuji thread. > Bingo. Problem solved. I applied the color > preservative (ChromaSeal) and the wrap behaved > like it should. NO stretching at all! Lesson
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Speaking of shipping i needed two winding checks that i didn't have in stock. Ordered from mudhole the shipping was more than double the cost of the checks
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