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Today
Dan Ertz
Todd Andrizzi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This blank is fiberglass and has a very extreme > taper. I don't have a digital micrometer but > measured with my cheapo mic. It is just barely > over 1mm so I guessed 1.1. This tip is very small. > I cut some off the back because it came 36". The > bend in the blank only goes down about 6
Forum: rodboard
Today
Dan Ertz
Mudhole and Janns also have glue on tip tops for ice rods, but not sure about one that measures 1.1mm. Like Chuck, I prefer wrapping on a fly guide - they always fit! Make or buy a rod tip support, super glue the guide to the blank, and it's easy to wrap. Curious about the noodle blank that measures 1.1mm. Unless that's for larger jigs/lures, that is quite big for a "noodle" tip an
Forum: rodboard
5 days ago
Dan Ertz
I used to be a tool and die maker, but it would be a waste of money to buy a professional grade caliper just for rod building. (Rod building is closer to carpentry than it is to precision machining where things are often measured to .0001 of an inch.) A digital caliper that gets good reviews on Amazon, etc and comes with a case. for less than $50 should be fine.
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Dan Ertz
The handle will be fine, but I'm not a fan of slip rings and cut them off a factory rod that had them because they did not hold the reel securely. Electrical tape neatly wrapped looks ok and is more secure.
Forum: rodboard
6 days ago
Dan Ertz
Bill Sidney Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > question ????? when you heat the hardner will > the yellow go away ????????? just a question No - but it will be warmer! : ) I think John was referring to heating the resin to thin it if it gets thick and/or cloudy (NOT the hardner)
Forum: rodboard
7 days ago
Dan Ertz
Yellowing happens with all epoxy finishes, and doesn't effect how it works.
Forum: rodboard
8 days ago
Dan Ertz
Like others have said, extra support stands are very helpful for what you describe. Another thing that may help is to add an elastic tensioner to the supports on your wrapper to secure the rod blank. A simple loop that reaches over the blank and hooks on both sides of the support is easy to use when you need it, and out of the way when you don't. It also works to "hold" the blank in pla
Forum: rodboard
20 days ago
Dan Ertz
I use the quicker setting Rod Bond to glue on ice rod tip tops. As delicate as most noodle rods are, the potential need to be able to remove a damaged tip top guide is extremely unlikely - the rod tip will probably be toast if something significant enough to damage the tip guide occurs. One thing to look out for with epoxy is that if the tube is a snug fit it will trap air in the tube and push i
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Dan Ertz
Thanks for the replies. I should have provided more information: The question is for drilling individual cork rings for ice rods. Many of these blanks are not tapered in the grip area, so that's why I drill the rings rather than ream. The diameters are small - about .160 to 250 or so, and pilot drills and tapered reamers mostly don't apply to these smaller, mostly non-tapered holes.
Forum: rodboard
22 days ago
Dan Ertz
Any suggestions for drilling out pre-drilled cork rings with a power hand drill so that the drill doesn't "walk" to the side causing the hole to be off-center? Thanks.
Forum: rodboard
25 days ago
Dan Ertz
And if using a power wrapper, make certain that the blank is turning "true." If it is off-center it's almost impossible to get a straight edge as the blank bobs up and down. Just use paper shims, etc. between the chuck jaws and grip to make the blank run true.
Forum: rodboard
6 weeks ago
Dan Ertz
I agree with Roger's suggestion to either make or buy a support if you want to wrap on a fly guide. If you have a Mudhole wrapper, I've seen one that is made for those that gets very good reviews on a Facebook ice rod building site.
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Dan Ertz
Mudhole's plain nylon "RNS" thread goes nearly clear without CP on it when finish is applied. A blue to match your blank would probably disappear on the blank and have a faint blue tint over the guide feet, and could look sharp.
Forum: rodboard
7 weeks ago
Dan Ertz
While checking the wraps for dry spots immediately after applying the finish, if there's a bit too much finish on a wrap I "wick it off" by holding the side of a dry brush below the wrap and barely touching the wet finish while the rod is turning. This will draw off the excess finish without disturbing/over-brushing the finish. The finish is there to protect the thread wraps - no
Forum: rodboard
8 weeks ago
Dan Ertz
Rod finish acts like a solvent on sharpie marks no matter how dry it is. As Roger suggested, masking tape or chalk are good choices. I mark the blank where the ring will be - which on single foot guides is usually clear of where the thread and finish with be. A fine tip water soluble maker is another option that can be easily removed after single foot guides are wrapped (without using sol
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Dan Ertz
I've done both "clean the brush" and "throw the brush" and I agree with Roger about avoiding the additional contact with solvents. I'm not sure from an environmental perspective what the trade-off is between using more solvents vs.disposable brushes, but from a health standpoint I'd much rather avoid the solvents.
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Dan Ertz
Alex - You say the guides have more paint , and that you grind the foot to a knife edge. I would think that the paint on the tip of the guide feet would have been removed when you grind them - are you grinding the bottom of the guide feet?
Forum: rodboard
2 months ago
Dan Ertz
A fairly coarse double-cut file also works for taking the high spots off a cork handle.
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Dan Ertz
Mel Shimizu Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Yeah, thanks but old habits and it is what works > for me. The heat gun blows too much dust. I need > to clean my work area...lol > Looks like white gas has been banned too. Back > packers are all looking for alternative fuel too. > I see 70% isopropyl has skyrocked in price locally > if
Forum: rodboard
4 months ago
Dan Ertz
That @#$%& to have access blocked to a product that you are used to using, but I'm not fond of the idea of using a "molatov cocktail" aka "alcohol lamp" for rod building - there have been serious issues... Some use mini torches or butane lighters for bubble busting, and I'd rather use 1 time use disposable brushes than have more exposure to solvents from cleaning brushes. Go
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Dan Ertz
Phil Erickson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I am an advocate of collets to hold the mandrels! > A couple what I think are important! They hold the > mandrel more securely and they are truer. They > also allow you to pass the mandrel through the > head stock. In my experience, using a chuck often > ends up scarring if it slips at all. &g
Forum: rodboard
6 months ago
Dan Ertz
You can also estimate the spool dia. by using the data for line retrieved per handle revolution and reel gear ratio. Useful for comparing reels that you order (I hate small dia spools that coil the line) and for planning guide sizes when you don't have the reel in hand. Most retail sites and reel companies provide the info you need for almost any reel - if not, a couple minutes looking at diff
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Dan Ertz
How do plan to use this rod? Dipping, casting, drifting, spider-rig, etc?
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Dan Ertz
Enamel paint can be fairly brittle - maybe try picking it off with a thumbnail, etc. to avoid possible solvent issues. Plastic worms or grubs also melt enamel if it's used as a jig paint... I'm assuming that all rod finishes are "worm proof" so you could try laying a soft plastic bait on the enamel for a couple of days or so.
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Dan Ertz
Any rod that is well matched with the right size line and lure weight is going to be the EASIEST to cast accurately - a skilled angler can quickly adapt to less than ideal combinations if needed.
Forum: rodboard
7 months ago
Dan Ertz
I've used powdered jig paint mixed with LS Supreme to color the thread wraps on some ice rod tips. Have only done it on a couple of rods. It sets up fine and is hard, but flexible when cured. Just to be sure that I'm getting good thread penetration with the epoxy, I've been using it only as a second coat so far. The LS Supreme does seem to cure a bit faster with the powder mixed in it, but it
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Dan Ertz
What you describe sounds like a clear coat glossy finish over a plain carbon fiber blank. Blanks can be clear coated by body shops (best option) or some people have used Rustoleum 2X clear, etc. spray can clears as a do it yourself low-cost alternative. As Spencer said, graphite blanks don't need finish on them - in fact some people strip the finish off blanks that come coated/painted to reduce
Forum: rodboard
8 months ago
Dan Ertz
Levi, Before you trim the blanks tape some guides on them and place a grip and reel where they would potentially be located on the shortened blanks. Run the line through the guides and see if the blank still has the characteristics that you want. If you trim the tip on a noodle rod you will lose a lot of the "noodle" visual bite indicator flex unless you sand the blank to restore t
Forum: rodboard
9 months ago
Dan Ertz
I hate to say it, but I've gone to anything BUT 3M for regular masking tape. For tan colored masking tape that sticks well I've been happy with "Intertape" or "Duck" brands.
Forum: rodboard
9 months ago
Dan Ertz
Michael Danek Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I respectfully submit that if one buys the right > guides, Fuji in particular, the need for something > like this is negligible. I sometimes will run a > piece of 150 grit across the tip of the foot to > help the thread climb, but that surely doesn't > require a motorized "tool."
Forum: rodboard
Pages: 12345...LastNext
Current Page: 1 of 8

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