Rather than a "power noodle" look for a finesse noodle, or a dead stick glass blank to have the parabolic action you are looking for and they'll need little to no sanding - certainly much less than sanding down an extra fast power noodle.
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Mo - Photo sent. Utmost carries the FC-06 arbors. If I recall correctly, the painted and clear coated grip weighed the same as the raw arbor - turning the arbor to shape the grip knocks off some weight to make up for the slight addition of the finish. My weights are from an electronic kitchen scale so not super precise, but it gives you a relative idea of the material weights compared to on
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Hi Mo - A bare FC-06 weighs .55 oz compared to .70 oz for twelve 1/2 x 1 1/4 x .250 hole cork rings. Obviously the FC -06 would gain a small bit of weight with finish on it, as would the cork rings by being glued together. I had originally intended to use epoxy to coat the foam grip, but that would add a lot more weight so used Rustoleum 2X paint and clear coat (one coat each.) This streng
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I have made a couple of grips from urethane arbors for ice rods - no skin or flocking. The Forecast FC-06 arbor is 6" long 1.25 dia. with a .250 hole. It's harder and weighs less than cork though likely not as durable as some alternatives, but with careful use it seems to be fine. I give mine one coat of Rustoleum 2X clear coat to strengthen and stabilize the foam, and prevent it from abs
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Vince goehner Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks very much for the replies, Roger and Phil. > I guess I was hoping to pick up something shorter > than the 18” ones so I wouldn’t need to pick > up an extension for my lathe, but perhaps I should > just bite the bullet and get one anyway. Or just cut the 18" ones to the length you wan
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You mentioned this was submerged before the ferrule got stuck. Maybe try soaking it in vinegar for a couple of days. It may have dried together with deposits from the water "bonding" the halves and vinegar could maybe dissolve that. Probably a long shot, but maybe worth a try...
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This gets messy since it was an informal transaction between friends and I take it there is no itemized invoice, so you'll have to document YOUR cost for components, materials, and an estimate of your time building spent building the rod. An invoice with proof of payment for similar rods you've sold.would be very helpful in establishing the retail value. Good luck.
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A caution about using gloves while working with rotating equipment. If a glove gets caught on what is being turned your hand WILL be pulled into the lathe, etc.and SEVERE injuries will result.
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Perhaps rig up something like a "slide knocker" on the male side of things (use tape to protect the blank, etc.) hold onto the female end, and then lift and drop the slide knocker to see if the straight "knocking" action will jar it apart. (Look up "slide hammer puller" to see what I'm referring to - it's an automotive pulling tool.) Good luck.
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I think I mentioned on your "arbors" thread Chris that I have built an ice rod with an FC06 Forecast arbor for a grip. I haven't fished it yet, but I like the look and feel of it and I have a second "arbor grip" on the lathe waiting to be turned. The arbor would "shed" foam dust as it was handled because the surface is brittle and would flake off. I didn't wan
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It sounds like you can take the grip off the blank and just want to break the grip back down into cork rings? It might be easier to saw it into 1/2 inch, etc. sections rather than fighting with the glue to make it release. The rings could be marked to match them together later to minimize gaps, or they could be trued up on a disc or belt sander.
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Hi Mo, The way your post is worded it sounds like you used the Titebond3 to glue the grip to the rod? Or was it just to assemble the cork rings? If all Titebond 3, the product description for that says "not for continuous submersion." Maybe try soaking a couple of test rings glued on a piece of scrap blank for a few days to see if it will loosen, but I wouldn't be too optimisti
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Hi Shawn, and welcome to the board! It looks like the rods will be for bass fishing. Open water or in cover? What weight line do you plan to use? How big are the fish that you're targeting? You may already know this, but in case not: MB is the abbreviation for "Mag Bass" and SJ means "Spin Jig" and those terms describe the general applications that the blanks were des
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Sounds like we have the same taste in ice blanks Chris! "The no-tape arbors challenge" for ice rods can take some planning. Using the Ice Blank Profile Database helps me a lot for planning out the grips for different size blanks.. I also keep a notebook that I plan out the supplies for my builds, and record my guide spacing, etc.so that I can duplicate or modify future rod builds. Se
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Chris Burger Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The blanks are the solid carbon extreme taper > blanks from sportsmen's direct. The butt end is > .197" (5mm) in diameter. I havent measured the > blank in the reel seat area diameter but obviously > it is slightly more narrow. > > I'd like to keep it as light and rigid as > possib
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Hi Chris - I agree with your dislike of masking tape arbors for ice rods. What size blank are you working with? Here are some of my work-arounds. Mudhole has a carbon tube that measures .250 OD and .200 ID that you could use for the full length of the seat, or cut it into 1" arbors and either way add conventional graphite arbors onto it. Making thread and epoxy thread finish arbo
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The problem could also be a narrower and/or thinner foot, or different shaped "arch" to the foot. Have a client bring in the rod and reel so you can compare the foot to a "normal" Shimano. If these rods had different reels on them previously, the reel seat hood may have stretched open a bit making it so a smaller foot can't be clamped down tight.
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Todd Andrizzi Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > This blank is fiberglass and has a very extreme > taper. I don't have a digital micrometer but > measured with my cheapo mic. It is just barely > over 1mm so I guessed 1.1. This tip is very small. > I cut some off the back because it came 36". The > bend in the blank only goes down about 6
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Mudhole and Janns also have glue on tip tops for ice rods, but not sure about one that measures 1.1mm. Like Chuck, I prefer wrapping on a fly guide - they always fit! Make or buy a rod tip support, super glue the guide to the blank, and it's easy to wrap. Curious about the noodle blank that measures 1.1mm. Unless that's for larger jigs/lures, that is quite big for a "noodle" tip an
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I used to be a tool and die maker, but it would be a waste of money to buy a professional grade caliper just for rod building. (Rod building is closer to carpentry than it is to precision machining where things are often measured to .0001 of an inch.) A digital caliper that gets good reviews on Amazon, etc and comes with a case. for less than $50 should be fine.
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The handle will be fine, but I'm not a fan of slip rings and cut them off a factory rod that had them because they did not hold the reel securely. Electrical tape neatly wrapped looks ok and is more secure.
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Bill Sidney Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > question ????? when you heat the hardner will > the yellow go away ????????? just a question No - but it will be warmer! : ) I think John was referring to heating the resin to thin it if it gets thick and/or cloudy (NOT the hardner)
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Yellowing happens with all epoxy finishes, and doesn't effect how it works.
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Like others have said, extra support stands are very helpful for what you describe. Another thing that may help is to add an elastic tensioner to the supports on your wrapper to secure the rod blank. A simple loop that reaches over the blank and hooks on both sides of the support is easy to use when you need it, and out of the way when you don't. It also works to "hold" the blank in pla
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I use the quicker setting Rod Bond to glue on ice rod tip tops. As delicate as most noodle rods are, the potential need to be able to remove a damaged tip top guide is extremely unlikely - the rod tip will probably be toast if something significant enough to damage the tip guide occurs. One thing to look out for with epoxy is that if the tube is a snug fit it will trap air in the tube and push i
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Thanks for the replies. I should have provided more information: The question is for drilling individual cork rings for ice rods. Many of these blanks are not tapered in the grip area, so that's why I drill the rings rather than ream. The diameters are small - about .160 to 250 or so, and pilot drills and tapered reamers mostly don't apply to these smaller, mostly non-tapered holes.
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Any suggestions for drilling out pre-drilled cork rings with a power hand drill so that the drill doesn't "walk" to the side causing the hole to be off-center? Thanks.
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And if using a power wrapper, make certain that the blank is turning "true." If it is off-center it's almost impossible to get a straight edge as the blank bobs up and down. Just use paper shims, etc. between the chuck jaws and grip to make the blank run true.
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I agree with Roger's suggestion to either make or buy a support if you want to wrap on a fly guide. If you have a Mudhole wrapper, I've seen one that is made for those that gets very good reviews on a Facebook ice rod building site.
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Mudhole's plain nylon "RNS" thread goes nearly clear without CP on it when finish is applied. A blue to match your blank would probably disappear on the blank and have a faint blue tint over the guide feet, and could look sharp.
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