Please give me a critique need to know where I went wrong
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Attempt at urushi critique needed
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Attempt at Urushi to me it looks O.K. but I would appreciate feedback .I know that the colours that I picked are not correct as I see a lot of green in red traffic lights
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Tom I'm not sure what went wrong here. i've tried to delete but can't do it .Would it be possible for you to do this for me Thanks Baz
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Just finished this thread carriage for my wrapper .Used magnetic tensioners & I can't believe how smooth they are
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A group of rods ready to deliver
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This is the method that I use to hold the guides for placement wrapping & test casting .
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I used to have the same problem with my Alps wrapper & never used the power option, until one coming back from the beach I sat down to do a bit of binding & was determined to master it .At that time I was bare footed & to my surprise I found that I could control the speed with bare feet & the maximum speed switch turned part way down .From then on I now wrap with my right foot bar
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Mark for what it's worth .I started building for myself many many years ago & occasionally someone would ask where my rod came from & when they were told that "I made it" & a few times I had offers to make one for them Because I wasn't all that experienced I was happy to break even .From there it was a gradual progression to the point I had to make a decision to continue bu
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I did try it once & had issues with the acetone upsetting the mixture, also there is very little pigment in the nail polish .I just felt it wasn't worth pursuing, as the powdered pigments give me no problems
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I've had a good look at the way my mixer works & it appears that the surface tension on the epoxy is sufficient to pull it out of the corners .I use a 3/8'' ball bearing to do the mixing & have been using it for the last 3-5 yrs .To date there has never been a batch that has never set up .I use dedicated syringes that stay in the bottles & only cleaned when changing bottles .The mix i
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I guess we all have the same problem with uninformed customers .What I do when I "told" what the customer will pay .My answer is "If you had to call a plumber or electrician how much as hour would you be paying .Down here in Oz the going rate is $90-100 dollars so I've used that as the figure to charge & base my quotes on that . When I get an argument that is too expensive for
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I had the same problem with my magnetic tensioner & I over came it by using drill stops .It's quickly adjustable using the grub screw to lock it in position. It just needs the screw to contact the shaft & it just doesn't move .The pressure you put on the drill stop grub screw is just enough to stop it moving .I put a small hole in the thread carriage to hold the allen key so it's never l
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No I haven't Michael I predominately use embroidery thread .It was just that the customer wanted some red metallic & the box of prowrap has this nice red in it & I was going to use it .since Marks post I've given it some thought & I'm starting to think it could be the magnetic tensioner system that I use .Maybe I didn't have the correct pressure from the magnets to stop it springing .
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My experience with ProWrap is not that flash .I don't use traditional rod building threads all that much .The first & only time I used a traditional metalic thread it was a fight to 1 get it to lay down & stop springing off the spool in the end I gave up & went back to my usual embroidery threads .I used CP only because of habit .There has to be a method to stop the problems I had wi
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I use magnets that are in the "repel " position that push the spool against a stop, with one is pushed against the arm that holds the spools .It's easily adjustable & there is no friction to overcome the resistance to turn. I did try the magnets that Spencer uses & found them difficult to use so I didn't persevere with them .As the thread doesn't come in contact with anything ot
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It sounds very much like "Fish Eyes" which are caused by contamination & that can be caused by any number of reasons .The main one seems to be using embroidery thread .To over come that you can use a CP prior to epoxy. Another common cause is oil from your hands & to over come that either wear surgical gloves or give your hands a good wash to remove any oils in your skin transfe
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Yes it would affect all forms of mixing but the cups were not made specifically for mixing epoxy .To my understanding of them they are a mixing cup for medicines & other fluids .I have been using them for years now in a mixer & have never experienced any bubbles .What I do is I pour the epoxy & hardener into the mixing cup & drop ball bearings into the mix . 1 ball bearing is 1/
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I have a mate that uses "O" rings of various colours for very small rods .Whether they will work in your circumstance I don't know .I'm just putting it out as an alternative.
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I did try the bands & wasn't comfortable with them .They just didn't suit me for some unknown reason .When I found the hair band method I felt comfortable using them & thats my only reason .I have been using the hair bands for around 10 yr's now & don't have any problems .I guess it's "Each to their own way of working "
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Your correct Bill with your sanding comment .However I still find it difficult to stop them moving away from the thread & the method that Barry & I use with the rubber band / hair band stops this from happening & makes the transition from the blank to the guide easier to accomplish .I always sand my guides but still find them difficult the start the transition without the back support
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I've been using that method for a number of years now except that I use girls hair bands & a very small bead on it .Another difference I use is a half hitch with one side behind the guide & the other in front of the upright part of the guide to keep the nose of the guide hard on the blank .I posted some photos when I started to use that method of holding if anyone is interested in looking
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& G'Day James Many years ago I used to make rods made on a Butterworth blank a Mt 3144 for the Ludrick & a 5144 for Black Drummer. The Butterworth is no longer available but Pacific Components make a blank using the Butterworth terminology .If you contact Ross at The Rodworks in South Oz he used to carry those .However I'm not 100% sure if he still does ,eitherway it would still be worth
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My experience is after you ask them & they say "How Much" will depend on your answer whether they want one or not .If it is a rod with a dec wrap ,fancy grips ,or urushi done to the rod I always say nothing & the answer is mostly YES .If it is a bare bones rod & I tell them $20.00 the answer is mostly NO .
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G'Day Mark if you can drop me an email or unhide yours I can send you some of the info that you are looking for
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g'Day Randy the theory of placing a couple of pieces of embroidery thread into your mixed epoxy is to equalise the surface tension of of the epoxy between the wrapped thread & the epoxy in your container .I have a mate who swears by it .however Iv'e never tried it as I prefer to coat with CP as it feels the correct thing to do .I use embroidery thread almost exclusively & have done for ye
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I do much the same as Lynn in making my own winding checks .The only difference is I use an epoxy that dries harder than the finishing epoxy we use . Iv'e been making my own for the last 8 yrs or so .The benefit is that you can style them to match any combination of thread colours as you have the ability to drop other colours in to suit.
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I made one quite a few years ago using 1/4" perspex sheet about 3"long & 1" wide with 3 1/4" holes drilled 1 I the centre & the other 2 1" from the centre .It worked for me for a number of years until I made a different style of layout system .I found as long I kept the marking pencil vertical & the dowels firm against the side it worked perfectly
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Danny build your self a drying box with a few of 60w incandescent light globes .They should generate heat to dry the epoxy & hopefully satisfy the odour problem .If you have a look in the photo board you should see a heap of different designs to get your self out of trouble .You could also set it up in the barn to further eliminate the odour .There must be something wrong with my sense of sme
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