G'Day Chester yes I increase the tension as I wrap the last 2-3 guides as the flex in the rod increases .I don't know which of us is right or wrong all I can say is that it works for me & never have had a problem with loose guides .I guess I should also mention that I move the rod supports as close as I can get them . Also I also use a "Forhan" lock wrap
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sorry double post
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G'Day Chad I agree with the not enough tension group .My wrapping is set at 101 grams (that is when the spool just starts to revolve & I never have any problems with loose guides .As I move closer to the tip I will increase the tension slightly to compensate for the greater flex in the tip area .As I use magnetic tensioners it is very easy for me to be very precise with my adjustments .Hope t
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I do the same as Sam & never had a problem. But reading Randolph's method I am going to give it a try, it looks the easiest way to handle the glue strips
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G'Day Ray Ian Miller would be the one here in OZ if Tom sends copies to him .Internet came back on today thankfully ,The 18th May is OK with me for the SEARBS gathering or any other day that suites the majority
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I do use the same method as Fred except I use Acetone to polish .Just be careful when using the sanding screen as It really rips the hypalon down & if possible use a Vac Cleaner as you sand to keep the dust down.Also a good idea to use some sort of breathing filter
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I'm going to miss him he was a mate.I knew it was coming but it still a shock & hard to believe .My thoughts & condolences to his family .See ya mate RIP.
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G'Day Dave I managed to remove a couple of reel seats using hot water from the tap running into a bucket for around 10 mins & then wrapped a cloth around the seat & used a set of multi grips & just kept working back & forth & eventually the epoxy gave way .Once it starts to move make sure you keep the hot water up .From memory it took about 20 mins all up .Sorry can't answer
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G'Day Stephen my experience with the suppliers on this board has been nothing but positive but in saying that there is a few that I always seem to use mainly because I feel more comfortable with them & that not imply that there is anything wrong with the others as they have all gone out of their way to help . As you become more involved in this addiction you will eventually settle on a couple
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G'Day Mark thanks for that review you've made up my mind for me .I was tossing it up as to whether or not to buy one now I will definitely get one .I believe there is a supplier here in OZ just not sure who at the moment .
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G'Day Rod how's that for service? 2014 a blue year Model: PR844-3S Brand: GLoomis Length: 7' Color: Pieces: 3 Line Weight: 8 - 17 Lure Weight: 1/4 - 5/8 Power: Medium Action: Fast
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G'Day Arthur I'm more than happy to help in any I can my email address is bchapman@exemail.com.au .I can almost guarantee once that once you get the first one under your belt you will wonder why you didn't do it earlier .As rod building is a fairly lonely pastime it is great to be able to spea
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G'Day Guys take the plunge you won't regret it .A couple of years ago 3 of us who used this board & had a similar conversation & from that the SEARBs came into existence .It is without a doubt one of the best things I have been involved in .We now have about 20 members & there is a couple that travel around 1000 miles to attend our meetings .The people that belong to the group are som
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G'Day Tristan Dave Boyle has a forum called Thread Central & that may have the answer to your question .If not just post your question on it I seem to remember something about your problem the last time that I was there
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G'Day Fellas a couple of years ago 3 of us who met on this forum decided to get together & from that inital meeting we now have around 20 members .We call ourselves the SEARBS (South East Australian Rod Builders) & although we are Sydney based we have members who travel over 1000 kms for the meeting .The get togethers are mostly informal with a lot of discussion between members with simil
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G'Day Col I've a spare dryer if you want it. It's yours just let me know & I can meet up with you some time in the New Year as I am on the Gold Coast at my daughters
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G'Day all here hoping those in Oz are enjoying the day & those that live on the other of the globe will enjoy tomorrow .
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I have the same setup as Randolph & have done so for years also .I also use a laser level if I need a line down the rod .I have a centre line scribed into one of the chuck jaws ,line up the level with this mark & run the level down the blank marking as I go & then run a piece of thread making sure that it touches each mark. As I always use the laser during setup the extra time taken i
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G'Day Keith If you get it & learn to use it you will not be disappointed even if you only use it to work out colour combinations for trim wraps .It is a great learning tool
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Thanks Corky but I'm not sure it's a big enough problem to go through hassle & expense for what has turned out to be a minuscule problem .There has been 300 + views with only 1 other reporting . I personally don't think it's a manufacturing problem it's more likely damage that has happened during transport or handling somewhere. I think if it was a manufacturing problem there would have be
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Sorry Don "blame" was a poor choice of word by me all I am trying to do is find out how large or small the problem is .At the moment it is negligible & I wouldn't bother ATC with it .
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Thanks David . Don I'm not fussed about pointing blame anywhere .I was wondering if this was a large or insignificant problem .I have installed around 30 sets & this is a first for me .
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I've just had 2 Microwave running guides loose their rings on 1 of my own rods that has been never trodden on caught on a door frame or in a car door .1 dropped out while it was being wrapped & the other on its first outing at the beach .Has anyone else experienced any problems with these guides or is my problem just an aberration.
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G'Day Ernest I used to have the same problem on my Alps Wrapper .My solution was to make sure that the blank is parallel to the center line of the wrapper for this I use a laser level but you could also use a ruler or even the depth gauge on Vernier calipers will do the job . I also like to have a plan B & for that I use Rogers sugestion of using a rubber band around the grip
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G'Day Harry I only use Aluminium seats Alps.triseats, Pac. Bay & Mudhole & never had any problem with any of them & they are all saltwater rods
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G'Day Chris IMO rayon should not be used as you will find yourself with a lot of fuzzies on your wraps which you will have to deal with. As for the breaking strain I am not sure having never used it .I suspect if it breaks easily don't try it .If you want to use a sewing /embroidery thread use one of the poly type of thread e.g. Maderia ,Mettler ,Brother & Sulky poly threads .I use Mettler Po
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Don in my opinion it's safer to use CP on any embroidery thread due to the silicon.I am sure there others who don't use it & have no problem I've never had a problem but I've also used CP all the time & I don't want to take a chance of a problem
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Don in my opinion it's safer to use CP on any embroidery thread due to the silicon.I am sure there others who don't use it & have no problem I've never had a problem but I've also used CP all the time & I don,t want to take a chance of a problem
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G'Day Don 60 weight embroidery thread might be a bit thin for binding guides as all the builders I know use 40 weight & even that is thinner than "A" thread .It should be fine for DEC.Wraps it will take you longer to fill a long wrap .Also there could be a problem with silicon on the thread which could cause you "Fish Eyes" in your epoxy a work around if this happens is to
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G'Day Robert I use exactly the same as Roger .The only difference is that I use the bottom of the cap is to put the customers initials in using a clear 5 min epoxy adhesive & stick on letters & then cover with another coat of the adhesive .
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