Trying to locate 1 or 3 of these if anyone has 'em
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Customer rod, 7'6" IP904, Amtack Titans, burl cork & aluminum trim cut with a hole saw from dumpster scrap. Thread is Madeira 1718 over Gudebrod NCP white & black for tiger, same Madeira w/ Gudebrod Pewter & "J" silver for guides & trim. I have an identical rod for myself built on an MHX 7'10", beautiful rig for a Cajun Thunder.
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MHX SJ843, Blue/carbon w/ electric blue candy, AmTack Titan A's & F's, Aero, Sulky blue & silver metallic, electric decal
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Carbon fiber grip w/ copper candy, AmTack Nanolite A's & F's, Madeira 1773 no CP, SBSS seat (thanks John)
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Madeira 1773 with no CP. It can be done.
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Creativity @#$%&, see below.
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Inspired by Mike Pedersen and John Timberlake. Thanks guys!!! Built on a 7' trashcan blank from the Fishticks booth. Pink fiberglass tinted with pink pearl & marbled with pink, blue, purple & gold pearl to match the Alps VS3's. Madeira pink & blue metallic from the bargain bim at the fabric store.
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Don't ever try to explain to your wife why "that little bag of stuff" costs so much. I got a little carried away but had a great time. Outstanding show!!!
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Here's another
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Not as big of a turnout as I thought, Very interresting outcome as well. I'll still stick with my micros.
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That would work, however, I've seen too many plastic boats break from this, they're just not made for it. I still think my main problem is getting used to the mechanics of fly-casting. Maybe at the next Expo (Thanks Tom) I'll pick up a cheap spey blank and give it a shot.
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Thanks Tom & Todd, You know, I think I'm going to get the lawn chairs out for the next casting session, can't imagine what the neighbors will think!! Just sitting on my knees would still put me quite a bit higher than I would normally be sitting in a kayak. At first, i liked the idea of a longer rod, but now it seems like it would be a band-aid for my casting malfunctions. A normal 9' rod
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I'm not new to rod building, but new to fly fishing. I saw a recent post where someone suggested a longer rod, 10' or so if fishing from a float tube. I thought this was relevant as my fishing consists of 70% kayak, 30% boat and I'm having a little trouble switching from yard casting to sitting in a kayak when it really counts. I hadn't considered a longer rod, like a spey rod or the like to acc
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The problem is also the cure. It's the silicone in the thread changing the surface tension in certain spots in the epoxy. Painters deal with this a lot, and some use a "fisheye preventer" mixed with the paint... guess what the active ingredient is... silicone and/or wax! For some reason, if you saturate the coating with the offending silicone, the surface tension in ALL of the coating a
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Craft stores are your friend!!! I repair a lot of Ugly Sticks and others with painted trim. The best I've found is a small brush with bristles about 1/64" diameter and about 3/8" long. Fully load the brush by twisting against the edge of the paint container and make sure there are no large globs of paint on the brush. Touch lightly on the rod while spinning at 50-100 RPM or so using
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Todd Vivian was nice enough to introduce these to me at the Expo and they felt great. I was able to do a side-by-side comparison with the equivalent regular MHX models and I could feel a difference. I personally think the difference was significant enough to be able to pick the high modulus version by feel without comparing. I've been very happy with the dozen or so different MHX models I've trie
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Hysol makes most aerospace epoxies that I know of. Not cheap though. They make very high quality stuff but it's all meant to be measured precisely by weight so you might want to invest in a good scale. Might want to check them out.
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I picked up an 8wt 9' 2pc MHX at the expo and have to agree with Eugene. It is very light, fast and powerful. Mine weighs in at 1.62 oz which is extremely light for an 8 weight. I will probably save it until I know I'm throwing to 25-30+ inch reds, jacks, spanish or other stronger species. My #1 gun for backwater reds & trout will be a 6 weight. Do yourself a favor and go with a 6,7 or 8 depe
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Phil, I use the saran wrap after the fiber sleeve is pulled tight and in place the best I can get it. The plastic wrap tucks the sleeve into any contours, corners and gets the ends tight to the mandrel. Since it's transparent, you can still slide the sleeve around a little after it's wrapped and still see what you're doing. Just work it gently with your thumbs. Letting the grip cure in a co
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I got an awesome deal on a Pac Bay w/ upgraded chuck last year at the show. Donart had them.
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Avoid the heat! Wipe on a super thin coating of resin, super thin! You don't want enough resin on the core that it will saturate the fibers, just enough to stick the sleeve to the foam. I gave up trying to seal all of the tiny pockets in the core. Apply sleeve and zip tie one end. Pull tight while spiral wrapping with a 1 to 1 1/2 strip of saran wrap. After the resin is cured, remove the saran
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Mr. Stevens was kind enough to send me some of this documentation a while back after a lengthy phone conversation. I think any rod builder should read it, especially if you ever plan to sell. I know it helped save my butt once or twice. Very educational. Thank you Bill & Lance
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Are these the decals that you printed on the white vinyl? If so, my first guesses would be: -Sharpie marker used for touch-up, the ink often looks purple after it dries -Contaminated decal surface before printing -Are you using name brand or other high quality ink cartridges in your printer? -Did you use Photoshop? Is there possibly a layer in the file that added color over the black backgr
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Sorry, it's gotta be red. Matagi has pics in the catalog but they're not actually listed. Maybe an email to Billy V will get it. Thanks all.
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Jann's and Mudhole's both say they fit the ECS and ACS style seats... How can they fit both properly if there is a .04" difference between the two? I know it's not much but is this what everyone is using? It seems that trim ring would be recessed a little on the ACS. I usually avoid this type of "bling" but this is what the customer wants, Mark, although I'm not sure I can affo
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I need to add a trim ring behind a Fuji ACS seat. The rear O.D. on the ACS is about 1.08" and on more common casting seats I have it's about 1.04". Can someone please confirm which trim rings will fit the ACS? I can't find any specific measurements from vendor websites. Thanks, Steve
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Thanks Tom, I've searched some but it looks like it's just going to be a complete re-wrap. I would still like to know where these came from if anyone ever finds out. Steve
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Thanks for the replies everyone. Tom, I do not see "Fuji" stamped in the frame anywhere. The owner said several times that he thought they were Fujis and did seem to know a bit about rod building. However, to me they don't resemble any Fujis I've ever seen. Honestly they look like something off a Wally World special, seem fairly robust though. Adam, I'll try your source as well.
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I took in what I thought was just another rod for repairs and upon inspection, I find graphite or some other composite type guide frames. I contacted the owner and asked what he wanted me to do, told him I could search around a bit and he said that's fine, he'd much prefer if it was repaired with the same type. I am in need of one of these guides and possibly more if someone has a stash, or fr
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