The only other decals I have photos of are either metallic (they don't photo well) or already put on a rod and out the door. Mostly names and specs but still better than paying and waiting for someone else to do it. I've got some more coming that I'll be sure to post when they're done. I'm working on a new technique that might add a huge creativity boost to this whole process if I can get it
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Has anyone actually seen an instance where a home-based rodbuilder (as a business) was sued? I'm curious as to how it could happen. I studied for months making sure I know how to handle all of my own business affairs, taxes, etc. before taking the plunge. The way I figured, it would be cheaper to pay a lawyer at the time one was needed, if ever. All local, state and federal officials were surp
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"As the material begans to set up, you can dip your finger in alcohol and use it to smooh the finish to a final finish. " Ditto You can also find those microballoons at boating stores (West Marine, etc.) I personally just use Rod Bond.
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I haven't used that particular guide yet but I do know if there's nothing for the locking wrap to "grab" on to then it's not doing you any good. Depends on the guide...
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PacBay stay true is NCP so that shouldn't happen. Which layer of the tiger are you doing? What brand & type of epoxy? Are you SURE that layer of thread is Stay True? Wrap a little of that thread solid on a scrap peice and see if the same thing happens. Are you sure it's not the effect of the tiger wrap making it look that way?
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Justin, Those are pretty sharp. I get by for now but I really need to step-up my Photoshopping abilities.
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Here's the only one I have uploaded right now. Bill's pictures are much better but basically, anything you can create that is printable can be made into a decal. Use black or another solid color as your background or match the background to your blank color. I'll try to put up some other pics later. Marco, I don't know if you can get Rodmaker down there but that one issue would be worth wh
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*UPDATE* I got Permagloss and I feel it's better suited for this purpose. The Lumiseal did seem a little thicker to me. I still like the Lumiseal better for wraps as it seems to build up a lillte quicker but the Permagloss works better for getting that hard, shiny finish on an already smooth surface. A better brush selection helped also. Another thing, the Permagloss fumes are quite a bit s
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With all of the questions being posted about one-off decals. STOP being afraid to make your own. The pack of decal paper from Swampland is a very small investment when you figure the number of decals you can make from it. There are various other types of decal paper, metallic, etc. available from various internet sources if you know what you are looking for. A 5-pack of the white vinyl plus Rodm
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Shawn, Unhide your email or send me one. I'll get you set up unless you're in a big hurry. Steve
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Order some of the waterproof white vinyl decal media from Swampland on the left. Pretty user friendly and you can make sure you get exactly what you want without paying someone for artwork, etc. Steve
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Tom, I have read the article. I do some grips that can't be completely covered by turning, such as the flat part of the SBSS seat and some other funky contoured stuff that I do. I'll try some things in the next few days and report back if any of it works. Don't get me wrong, they're coming out great but I can't stand knowing that there is any little imperfection.
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Bill - I will give the Permagloss a try and compare. From the things I read I was under the impression that Lumiseal would be "workable" slightly longer while brushing. I did get xylene today but didn't get a chance to try it yet. Thank you for your help. I have a new baby at home so anything to do with solvents has been banished to the garage, that's the whole basis of trying to ge
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Thanks Tom & Bill. I guess I wasn't very specific. I'm ok with the working time in the container, I was looking to get more time to allow the product to "flow" once applied to the surface... to release the odd bubble & brush strokes. (Fractions of a second would make a difference I think) I need to get xylene anyway so I'll see what it does. Bill, My search started at thre
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Two part question: What would be the proper brush cleaning solvent for these coatings? (DNA works OK so far) And Is there a thinner that will extend the working time of Permagloss and Lumiseal? Even a few seconds wil get me what I need. I'm in Florida so there is virtually NO working time with this stuff, specifically Lumiseal, not into the Permagloss yet. I figured I'd ask before
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I find that edge is great for removing old thread finish also. It is sharp enough to dig into a blank if you're not reasonably careful but it beats the heck out of replacing softer material scrapers all the time. I have one that is used just for this and one for new thread packing. If I remember correctly it's a carbide tip(?) Good stuff either way. Steve
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I didn't get the new issue yet but I feel better already. I've weighed every foam core grip I've ever made and hadn't seen the 30% or so weight decrease reported in the article (not calling anybody a liar or anything). Lighter, but not that much lighter. I still love them though. Sounds like an eye opener, Can't wait!
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Steve - I figured. Got knows there are tons of them out there and with repairs on ugly sticks alone making me almost as much money every month as custom stuff, I don't mind. I will comply if someone just wants their rod to work again on the cheap. If they don't specify then I make it like it was and charge a fair price.
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Steve - It's a personal thing. If they're willing to pay me to fix it, I feel obligated to do it the same way unless they say otherwise. Bill- I've been using thread but if it was painted originally the that's what I'd like to use, especially if it's faster. I got some nice pinpoint brushes on clearance at Michael's yesterday and they work quite well with the Testors. Thanks all, Steve
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Thanks for the replies guys. Sometimes I am able to leave epoxy over the painted area, sometimes the epoxy is not bonded to the paint stripe and other times the paint peels right up with the epoxy. I guess I will get ahold of the finer tipped brushed and maybe try the guitar string as well, that sounds like a good idea to keep contact with a bowed or crooked blank through the entire revoluion.
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I hate them. But with the amount of repairs I'm doing now I'm looking for something more efficient to repair ugly sticks, etc. and not have to use the appropriate color thread to replicate the painted trim bands, I've tried Testors paint and a small brush with some success, there's got to be a better way. Anyone know how they do it at the factory? My best thought so far was to invest in some of t
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I've never had a blank shipped in a cardboard box or tube from Mudhole or anywhere else arrive broken. I have sent blanks in schedule 40 (thick wall) PVC, bubble wrapped at the ends and every couple feet that were broken or damaged when they got to their destination. Go figure.... cardboard is fine with me. BTW, I love having color options! The more the better! Thanks Mudhole
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If you look at the bottom of the new style carriage, there is a set screw holding that shaft. Loosen it and adjust the shaft to one side until the spool fits. Be careful as the threads for that set screw can be stripped easily. That's what I did until I can put the finishing touches on my modified version. Steve
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I'll post pics ;)
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Thanks Mark & Bill. I think I'm going to use a cork rear & glass/foam core foregrip. I'll make a cavity in the foam core before it's laminated and inlay it there. I'll still pick up some of that casting resin, lots of cool uses for that stuff I'm sure.
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Thank you both. I'm pretty sure he'll buy into the idea of a plastic section for the inlay, not wood though. Where would be a good source for this type of plastic? and I'm assuming that rod finish is a suitable epoxy to fill it in with, or would another type of casting resin be better? I just don't do that kind of thing much. Thanks again, Steve
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A very good freind asked me to inlay a lapel pin into a cork handle for a planned build. I didn't make any promises yet and I just got the pin at about 2" long and 1/2" wide. Is there a good way to do this without the epoxy ruining the cork? I had planned to use a preformed grip for a Fuji IPSM(?) seat but now I think the only way is to use a full size, raw cork grip, make & fill th
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Two fishing trips ago I knocked my beloved MHX MB843 off of the forward casting seat into a 12' deep saltwater creek. Once I realized what the sound was, I was devastated. I looked around for a second and saw about 5" of the rear grip bobbing out of the water. Gotta love it! foam core / carbon fiber grips, Amtack Titans, Shimano Citica 200E... All returned safely home (and cleaned)
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I use Quick-bond and a finger dipped in alcohol to shape. I found out even that stuff will drip after alcohol has been applied to it if not rotated. Comes out perfectly smooth and no need to sand. I've been doing this for even really tiny ramps in place of winding checks lately and I like it a lot better. FWIW. Steve
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Proof I hope more people start to do this & someone finds an easy way. ;) Steve
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