I do get fisheyes. I just deal with them in a way that suits me. Many times I don't get any. I slather on a coat of finish, usually lite variety, just as it starts to thicken, I brush off as much as I can. A second coat of Hi build usually gets the job done. If the second coat has problems, then I brush it down to a thin coat, wipe with alcohol after it cures and then follow with a third coat of
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You can use Madeira without CP. It can be a little tricky but it can be done. I just finished my 4th rod using Madeira and NO CP. I really like the look too. Madeira with CP + Madeira without CP = about 750+ color combos ;) Photo session this weekend & then you can see. Steve P.S. One major builder / supplier I talked to said he regularly uses Madeira without CP also.
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Bill - I did find out that alcohol is no good to the bare coating on the metallic paper. There was a thumbprint on a deal-sized piece and I tried to clean it off... didn't take too long to realize that was a BAD IDEA. Haven't had any problems when I tried to clean an acrylic or fixatif coated piece though. Justin - I couldn't get CP to stick when I applied it to the whole decal but I don't rem
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Thank you Bill. I'll print one tonight to try that with. Hopefully I'll get to it tomorrow. Tom, I've had some dry overnight, some for a few hours, didn't seem to matter much either way. I'll see if I can give the Tree House a try as well. Thank you both. Steve
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I've gotten into the electric decals lately but I'm having problems getting finish to stick. I do have the article and have tried the methods described there with no luck. There are no added contaminates in my shop and I don't have any other finish problems. White vinyl decal paper was fine but I'm having a heck of a time with the gold & silver. I have tried: - Krylon UV resistant clear a
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Matthew, I agree that this would not be an appropriate place for tax advice. The main intent (the first section) of my post was to get help locating the references in the article on this forum. Tom, as far as your last comment, I would probably have to agree. I have searched all tax related posts on this forum over the last couple years and of the few accountants that I have talked to, none o
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Thank you very much Darrin. I look forward to seeing them. Steve
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The ones I'm looking for are the Titan Ring-Lock A frame spinning. I think it's NIRLA. Last time I checked MudHole was about a week ago and they said they did not know when to expect them.
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Yep. They didn't know when they would be available.
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Does anyone have these? No one that I deal with has them or knows when they will be available. Last response I got from a dealer was " Yeah, everyone else is lookin' for those too". I'm using the Titan A's almost exclusively now for spinning rods but It's a shame I can't offer a Ring-Lock in titanium. Thank you, Steve
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I have not tried it yet. It's only good if you have a heavier density foam than you need. You can go lighter, but not heavier. Not with this method anyway. I have an uncle that is a chemist at a very large plastic company and he confirmed that water would be the primary "blowing agent" in the two part urethane foams like this. It's already there, you can just add more if you want.
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I've been doing a lot of composite grips lately which led me to researching the polyurethane foam I've been using. Thought this article was interresting. Make any lighter density foam you want... Just add water! Cool. Steve
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A great leader once said "Trust but verify". Thanks Tom. I trust that the article would have been updated if there were any changes. A quick search at IRS.gov did not reveal the references in the article but I'll try to dig a little more. I am my own accountant / tax pro which is why I wanted to have these documents handy in the first place. I have been doing it the right way so no
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I trust that the article in the library is up to date but I cannot find any of the references on the IRS site. I found all of the info concerning the tax and the $10 cap but I can find nowhere that says the constructive sales price 60%. Can someone please direct me to this? Also, under the current law it looks to me that I could use the constructive sales price to a wholesaler now, not jus
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I modified a "windows" wrap from Billy V's book one time and I thought it could very easily be made into a confederate flag. I have a very nice camera but very crappy photography skills. If I can get a decent picture I'll put it up or send it to you. I'm sure it would click if you looked at it. Steve
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Thank you Ron! Does the ink adhere well? How thick is it compared to the holo shine?
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Every time I needed help I called Riley Rods, they were excellent! And they do have tutorials on their site now.
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Please let me know if you try it Bill. I don't know when I will get to. I just started messing around with the other media I got from Lance Dupre and I have a whole new addiction to deal with now! I'm running out of rods to put decals on. Funny thing, when looking for the holo paper I found about 80 different websites that are just the Texascraft site relabeled and a different color. They all
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I don't intend to infringe on any sponsors here but it sounds like holo decal paper will be hard to come by for some time. I've been on the hunt for something to replace it. Anyone ever try or consider this? Pretty awesome price if it's viable. I'm sure others have been looking but I don't recall hearing of a replacement. Steve
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It works great if there is a foregrip as well. As I understand, The original point of a winding check was to cover up sloppy cork reaming and provide a smooth transition from the blank to the grip. You can accomplish that with several different methods. The only benefit I have ever seen of a rubber/vinyl check is to accomodate for a small amount of shrinkage of the cork... and it's easy. Steve
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" I am open to any suggestions on how to proceed with this rod." Cut it off and leave it off. Do you really need it? If so, make a very small epoxy ramp and cover it with black (or any color you like for that matter) thread. This is what I do now instead of winding checks almost every time. I get any color I want and don't have to keep a buttload of winding checks in stock. Steve
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Thanks everyone. I got it. I could definitely see a ridge in the inner bore of the roller that looked like a bushing. I machined a punch to the proper size and they came out with a little force. Bone dry, corroded and crushed in place. Jeez! Minor maintenance people! I'm getting the owner all new bushings and should be good to go after a little Dremel work. Steve
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Thanks Chuck. I took all the rest of the rollers out and it doesn't look like the standard Aftco bushing. Some of the screws were so tight that the frame was clamping the roller and preventing it from turning.
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The first MHX I built was an MB843 for the exact same application and line you described, except I use 20lb floro if I use a leader. I used American Tackle Titan ringlocks in a simple spiral with a 6 double foot and the rest were size 5 singles to the tip. I think you'll find that 5's will pass the uni knot no problem. I've only used it for topwater so far but it will cast a Top Dog Jr. farther t
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Working on some old Aftco rollers (not sure exactly how old) that were seized. I disassembled to check out the bushings and they don't have any. It appears that there is an all metal bushing swaged into the roller but no way is it coming out. Did Aftco do this on their old rollers? Or is it the normal dry-lubed bushing that has been in there way too long? Also, will new replacement rollers fi
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A good way that worked for me was to buy one complete set including every size I thought I might need, plus several running guides. Get something cheap like Fuji Al. oxide chrome frame. The frame styles & sizes are the same as their higher end guides. Use this "test set" to determine the sizes that you need, then buy the nicer guides in those sizes that you need for the rod. You
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"ACMB843 = MHX MB843" The specs are very slightly different: MHX MB843 = 10-17, 3/16 - 3/4, .59, 5, 2.1 ACMB843 = 10-17, 1/4 - 3/4, .595, 5, 2.1 But close enough that I beleive you, maybe just differ in the labels. I remember them feeling very similar from the expo but I also wiggled 100+ blanks that day. I have been very happy with my MHX's so far. I think I'm all set no
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Thanks Tom. I make a trip to Mudhole almost monthly. I'll ask next time.
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I'm trying to get info on the American Tackle Classic series high modulus. Specifically the ACMB843. I really like what I saw from them at the expo but I can't seem to find any vendors. There is another pro builder in my area using them but I heard through the grapevine that he gets them direct. Thanks for any help. Steve
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I've never tried to stain solid natural cork but I made 2 grips about a year and a half ago out of red burl and I used custom tinted Minwax exterior water based to make them REALLY red and they've held up just fine through moderate use and very little care. I charged the guy about $10 extra to cover the whole cost of the stain and gave him the whole can for touch-ups but it hasn't been needed.
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