I'm glad to see someone else in the game here, Especially with good prices. Your stuff looks great Mike & I'll give you a try next time I need equipment... And see you at the expo! Steve
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Thank you all. I found a few options from the sources listed above. Steve
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Thanks Tom. I'm sure I have the magazine issue, I'll look there. "End boring bits" is what I was missing. Thanks again
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I have no idea where I first read it but I'm looking for a source for the 60 degree bits to make a mandrel fit properly on a live center. Thanks for any help, Steve
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Thanks for posting the results. It still seems like a viable method but would require modification to the blade and wouldn't be good for the tougher cork materials. The idea seemed good to me when I posted originally.
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I've had good success using Minwax exterior stain on composite or burl type cork handles. It doesn't get any deeper but it does hold up very well since the material is tougher. Although this doesn't answer the original question...
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As per an article in the current Rodmaker issue... Buy books! I don't think the magazine ships overseas but there suppliers in the sponsor section of this forum that can send you the best books available. The library and search functions on this site will likely be your best friends for a while. And ask questions if you hit a snag. Welcome and GOOD LUCK!
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Ken, Please let us know how that meat slicer works. For some reason I'm a fan exporting kitchen tools to the rod shop. My cajun injector has re-glued many a reel seat.
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To clarify... I didn't mean it's a shame if someone buys it. I meant it's a shame that most of them will have no idea exactly why. I don't think their marketing wording is very accurate. At least TT realized that it probably made no difference.
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duplicate
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I wonder how well something like a meat slicer would work for cutting thin cork rings? I don't have one or I would already know the answer. It works inside my head...
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That is awesome! They finally found a way to get a guide closer to the reel! Jeez... Someone will buy it though... shame.
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I knew a pretty hardcore fisherman named Joe Robbins in Va Beach about 8 years ago. Any chance that's you?
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Michael, I didn't know they made just the blades. I'll have to look into that. Thanks, Steve
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Foam core / composite bowling pins for each end of a split grip would be awesome! James's EVA "bowling balls" from Mudhole as a butt cap and foregrip. Why don't I ever get these projects? Bill, if you're not into composites and not in a big hurry I'll donate the bowling pins since it's a good cause. Just pay shipping. Email me if interested. Steve
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At the 2010 Expo, Scott Parsons @ Fishsticks turned me loose on a huge box of random blank parts, I had to insist on paying for them. I would call them. If they can help you I'm sure they will.
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I wonder if anyone has tried a Microplane® from the kitchen. I've been dying to try but can't get it past the wife. It's like a Shur Form but razor sharp.
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A good test is to wet the thread (or wrap) with alcohol. This is approximately the same color change that will occur with epoxy. Make SURE all of the alcohol has evaporated before finishing. I think vaggie or mineral oil works even better to see the effect but obviously you don't want to epoxy over that. Use a test wrap.
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Absolutely. There are some single-foot guide styles out there where a locking wrap will not actually lock on to anything. With these types of frames, it really doesn't take much more effort to pull a guide out wether it has a locking wrap or not. That's in my experience anyway. There are others that have done extensive testing that I'm sure would agree. I'm a firm beleiver in the Forhan locking w
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Mike Pedersen at Riley Rods has made some out of foam & carbon fiber, You may want to contact him. If I remember correctly, he said it was mostly freehand on a belt sander to get the contour.
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It depends on the guide style, sometimes a locking wrap is pretty useless. I use 6 DF, 5 & 4 SF's to the tip spiral wrapped for pulling in some pretty heavy inshore stuff on that blank with no problems. DF's may provide a little more physical security if they get banged on pretty good, the blank would probably fail first though as Jim said.
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Oh, I was referring to the self-printed vinyl. I have no experience spraying stuff on waterslides, just used micro-set and micro-solve.
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Yes. It's not needed with the matte vinyl though. You can get away without it with metallics also if you are very careful when handling.
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Thank you very much for the update Joe. I'm really looking forward to the day when both of those items become available. Steve
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Roger, that setup sounds ideal. I would love to work out something like that. I think for now the Jet would just be way overkill and still not get me everything I want. The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of building / adapting something to do exactly what I need. I will get the Jet one day when I turn something more than cork and foam. I have no doubt it's a great product.
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The Aero seat still only comes in 16mm huh? Joe, we spoke breifly at the expo and you said larger sizes will probably be in the works. Is there any update on that? Also, I'm still trying to locate the Ring Lock titanium A-frames. They're in a few catalogs but no one actually has them available. I'm really enjoying the American Tackle guides so far, the Ring Lock has been a good selling poin
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Thanks guys. I had another thought about just buying another power wrapper to keep in the garage that would serve as a grip lathe for turning cork and foam cores and it would also allow me to apply permagolss. My rod shop is inside the house so I need to keep something in the garage for the ditry stuff. I guess I just have to decide which route I want to take. Your input has helped. Thanks, S
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I picked up a Harbor Freight lathe the other day because it was amost free. It's their worst model, the 40" one. It will work for what I need but would require adapters & such due to the odd headstock. Ironically, later that day a gentleman contacted me about an item I had for sale and mentioned that he was a power tool distributor for Jet & others and asked if I was interested in
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Rodmaker 12-1 Not much learning curve required. If you can handle very basic photo editing and have an inkjet printer then you can make a decal. Email if you want help. Steve
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Lamiglas IMP 904. I have one that is designated as a guest rod and it is TOUGH, feels light and regularly gets abused by noobs pulling in big reds. The color might not work as mine is a very deep blue, not sure of that's still how they make 'em. That would be perfect for snook and larger bass. Of the MHX line, the MB941 is great at 7'10", this is one of the very few instances that I could
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