I just use pencil marks and thin strips of masking tape. I'll mark where grip pieces start/stop, trace reel seat cutouts, mark where thread wraps start/stop with the pencil when I mock up the build. The pencil shows up well enough that I can see it when I look at the right area of the blank up close. Then I'll use a wrap of masking tape to outline the areas that need surface prep. For guides
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For bass rods, the vast majority of the performance gain comes from dropping from 6mm down to 4mm guides. From there, it is a process of diminishing returns. I love my rods that have 3 mm running guides, but I can’t say that they offer any true advantage while fishing. Over the years I’ve settled on 4mm as being the sweet spot. I regularly pass well trimmed nail knot bobber stops on 6lb mono
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I pass nail knot bobber stops through 3mm ceramic guide’s regularly. The trick with small ID guides is trimming the tag ends very close to the knot. Of course colder weather steelhead fishing, I would opt for 5 or 6 mm ceramics. In norther Cali if subzero temps aren’t a it concern, 5 mm running guides will make a nice compromise.
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Miles, as mentioned, the SB720-4 is significantly more powerful than the CRB blank. I brought it up, because it makes for a great smallmouth stream rod. I like to fish finesse versions of typical power fishing lures. Think 4" worms with 1/8oz weights, 1/8oz buzz baits and spinnerbaits, jigs with grubs and tubes up to 1/8oz weights with tubes and 1/4oz with grubs, 1/8oz jig-n-pig, smaller
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Miles, that CRB blank is fine for a little float fishing and maybe tossing some small open hook jigs (I use them with my wife and kids like this), but for anything where T-rigged with the hook laying on the side of the bait like a fluke or small topwater frog, that blank just does not have the power to set the hook. While in grad school, we had a great small river flowing through town. I kept
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On a nylon seat, I'd consider trimming the nut. There is usually a little overhang on the nut before the threads start that can be removed. Some tape on the threads and then a little work with a Dremel, file, fine toothed saw, or scalpel/exacto knife should take care of it. Another option would be to score the EVA where the hood butts up against it to let the hood wear a little pocket into t
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For your boss's blank budget, I think it would be tough to beat the CRB IS561L, 5'6" light powered blank from MudHole. I've built a number of them over the years for my wife, kids, and friends to use for crappie, bluegill, and for tossing some UL lures. I suspect your boss will love it. It makes for a build that feels incredibly light in the hand, and has an appropriate power for the desi
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Sam, a spine finder may not be necessary, but you spent some quality time working on an interesting project that helped you get through a tough time in your treatment. I would call it a win. You now have a device that you can use to demonstrate why spinning the blank is unnecessary, while also being able to demonstrate why a spiral wrap for a casting rod is stable under load. I wish you all the
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CP as a finish is definitely not a long term solution, but as mentioned, works just fine. I have rods where I've used CP for a quick repair or CP as a finish just to see how it would hold up. It's usually good for several years worth of use for me. If I would have used Forhan Locking Wraps, I likely would not have had the couple of guide pull outs that have happened. CP as a finish is great
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Both 36 million modulus and 24 ton refer to the modulus of elasticity. The modulus of elasticity has units of pressure, so that 36 million modulus means that the modulus of elasticity is 36 million pounds per square inch. This is the standard (imperial) unit for modulus of elasticity. Converting to the SI (metric) units for pressure or modulus of elasticity, 36 million psi converts to about 24
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I don't have the data from NFC blanks, but here's the explanation. If the SM (standard modulus) and HM (high modulus) blanks are built to identical specs meaning that they are designed to have the same lifting power and the same flex profile (i.e. the same IP and AA measurements in CCS) across different loads, then they will behave slightly different. SM blanks are constructed from a material
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It will work just fine. In fact I have a set of grip components that I believe came from PacBay made from that material. I got them at the Expo a few years back, but never got around to skinning them. The only downside is that By the way, I like your style. A split TN handle in carbon fiber is the way to go.
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As long as your grip has some contour to it, either a taper or a curve, you will see a nice pattern. I agree, it's rather boring if you plan on using it for a straight grip. Here is one of the first handles I turned, which happened to also use that material:
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Mick, Fair enough. I should have put melt in quotes or used a little more descriptive language because as you said, it isn't the same as melting.
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If you get the blank hot enough, the resin that locks the graphite fibers into place will soften, and the result is exactly as you describe, the blank folds in your hands. When blanks are made, the fibers are held in place by the pressure between the mandrel and the cellophane tape wound around the blank. They are then cured at temps of around 300 F give or take 50 degrees or so (based on what
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It's not uncommon for me to use an EVA trim ring when I trim a carbon grip with a sharp edge similar to your situation. I use it primarily to have something soft where my fingers are transitioning from the grip to the blank. In your instance, being slightly compressible, it will help hide any small fit and finish issue by trimming off the tenon. You could use an EVA inlay strip available from
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The meter is defined based on the speed of light, the distance light travels in 1/299,792,458 s. The inch is defined based on the speed of light such that 1 in = 2.54 cm. The second is defined based on the frequency of the hyperfine splitting in the Cesium 133 atom, and is the amount of time it takes an electron to flip its spin 9,192,631,770 times. The kilogram used to be defined based on
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<p>Finishing and drying motor with a magnetic slip clutch.  I used a 24V 200 RPM DC gear motor and an AC to DC power supply and 1 V to 24 V voltage regulator, a piece of stainless shaft, a coupler, a couple neodyming ring magnets and a piece of EVA as a spacer.</p>
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<p>Carbon skinned foam core grip with EVA trim rings at each end for a little accent and to have a soft edge for my finger and thumb to rest on.</p>
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<p>EVA tap handle made to commemorate the completion of a Ph.D. in high energy nuclear physics from Kent State.</p> <p>From right to left. The lightening bolt (Cohen style inlay) is an adaptation an old Kent State logo and also represents the energy in a high energy nuclear collision.  The elliptical inlay around the lightenign bolt represen
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<p>Ohio State inspired EVA split grips to go on a metallic silver MHX MB843</p>
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<p>Split grip with a plate seat wrapped on woven graphite and EVA butt grip.</p>
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<p>The butt grip is bored out to accept lead tape wrapped around the blank.  Rod bond fills the remaining void and is mixed with cork dust at the end of the grip to help hide the glue line.</p> <p>The stainless T-nut is fitted inside of a reel seat arbor and glued into the butt of the blank.  Finally a set of stainl
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This is my first set of turned grips.
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A simple out of sight out of mind balancing cap that I'm tinkering with.
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Mod to make wrapping reels easier
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