I have run into a small problem with my reel seat. The hood hits the fore grip and wont open long enough to get the reel in the seat. When I test fit things I was able to get the reel in the seat. I am thinking the way to fix it is to put the rod in lathe and trim the fore grip down to match the threads on the reel seat. I only need an eighth of an inch to make things fit. Has anyone ever done this before? I used an EVA fore grip so I can shave it down fairly easy. I usually dont have this problem except I figured id build a rod with left over parts or parts that where not used for other builds and I haven't used this reel seat before. I thought about just using some brute force and just force it in the reel seat but then I thought if i break something im starting over.

No doubt your solution of turning down a bit of the back end of your fore grip will work. And because it's EVA, you don't have to take it down quite a far if you don't want to, meaning the EVA can be a little above the top of the threads, because the EVA will compress a bit.

You didn't say what kind of reel seat you're talking about. Casting or spinning, But here is something else that may work if the problem is with a casting reel seat...... if when taking off the reel, you're trying to take the front of the reel foot out of the seat first, try loosening the nut until it's tight against the fore grip, push the reel forward in the seat, and try to lift the back of the reel seat up. You most always have more room for the reel foot in the hood of the reel seat, than you do at the rear of the seat..

The same would go if you are having problems getting the reel into the reel seat. Just do it in reverse of taking it out. When putting the reel on, put the front of the reel foot into the hood, push it all the way forward, and see if the rear of the foot will go in.

I trim all the thread barrels on my builds, and even though I don't use an actual fore grip. I do use a small piece of EVA to cap off the end of the thread barrel that I turn down to the same diameter of the threads. The nut will pass over the EVA until the threaded portion of the nut contacts the EVA. I can either force it a little more onto the EVA, or I can use the procedure I described above, to put the reel in or take it off. Most of the time I just do what I described above because forcing the threaded portion of the nut over the EVA leaves marks.

I would re-profile each end of the reel foot because that would be the easiest solution for me, but I don't have a lathe. If your solution is easier for you than grinding the reel foot a hair, then it looks like you have your answer.

If you have a Dremel and a small burr you can reshape the back pocket on your reel seat, and maybe get your distance. I have done it to get a larger footed reel to fit from time to time.

Just cut 1/8th of an inch off your reel foot and you will be good to go. After cutting, thin the freshly cut foot if necessary.

Over the years, I have run into this issue a couple of times, and I always solved it by adjusting the reel foot - with the use of a grinder, file and a belt sander. It only takes a couple of minutes to solve the issue.

Turn down the fore grip as you suggested, or just remove it and go with no foregrip.
Norm

This may not be so obvious...but try to install the reel foot in the hood first.

Ditto Chris.

On a nylon seat, I'd consider trimming the nut. There is usually a little overhang on the nut before the threads start that can be removed. Some tape on the threads and then a little work with a Dremel, file, fine toothed saw, or scalpel/exacto knife should take care of it.

Another option would be to score the EVA where the hood butts up against it to let the hood wear a little pocket into the EVA over time.

Either option sure beats modifying any reel you use with the rod.

roger wilson Wrote:
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> Ditto Chris.

I usually leave the foregrip off, but I recently made a rod with foregrip and a G2 Apex reel seat.
Pfleuger President had to be attached foot in the hood first.

I would not modify the reel foot. Just trim or turn down the foregrip by the minimum amount needed to allow the foot to go in. And remember that if you angle the foot you can insert the fore end first and then slide that in which creates extra room on the other end. Maybe you are already doing this but if not you can actually get the foot in an opening that is shorter than the foot.

Thanks everyone for the tips. I ended up shaving down the core grip so I could spin the nut further so I could slide the reel foot in.