11' # 5 CTS Affinity Plus with 1½ hand rattan handle and Struble U19 nickel silver reel seat. Alconite guides.
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Second guide again
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Groove in stripping guide
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Second guide from the stripper - its so thin where it's grooved that it can be pressed together !
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Pearsalls Gossamer white and varnish on Lamiglass fiberglass. Mildrum stripper. Eventhough its not perfect its my first attempt with silk so I'm happy :-)
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Finally finished the rod - 7'6" 4wt - very nice rod to cast - wish they made a 8'6" 5wt too.
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My guess is that its an unsanded blank. The spiral resin leftovers are often sanded to give a smooth finish - other manufacturers leave the blank as it is, but someone can explain this better than me in english :-) Take a look at Scott G, HP, G2 and X2 (I think) rods - they have the same spiral finish Some consider it a classic look and believe that they are more durable. Found this on FAOL
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Andy, I've had some problems with thread penetration with the "old" Threadmaster and to solve this I use a coat of Permagloss to soak the threads - which workes great. Will I need the Permagloss with the new Threadmaster Lite or is the penetration problem solved due to the lighter vicosity ? I have to add that I'm amazed everytime I use the Threadmaster finish - you dont even have t
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Hi Chris, eventhough I also prefer the full wells grip in most situations I would suggest that you take a look at the maniform grip. I build a rod a few years ago with that grip and found it to be very comfortable and it actually aided my casting as it kept my hand more stable. BUT some hate it others love it. The rod in mention was a 10 foot 6wt and I dont think the handle was an improvement o
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You must wrap both male and female ferrules on spigot type ferrules like the Scott ferrules or you run the risk of the blank splitting - just like the female ferrule will if not wrapped. Yes the spigot is glued in but glue on the inside wont ad much strength to the blank wall. And Scott rods are wrapped quite long on the male side - I guess the wrap goes as long as the spigot is inserted into the
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Thanks Chris - I guess I'll try different tip tops and se how it turnes out :-)
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Thanks for the advice. I should have mentioned that is was the TLST I ordered and it seems that the largest ring size is the # 7. When looking through the snakes the tip top ring is smaller in diameter - but should the tip top ring have the same inside diameter as the snakes (or larger) ? What will happen when the tip top ring diameter is smaller than the snakes ? Tom - you say that I can alway
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I need a little insight. I'm building a CD rods XLS 8 weight using Recoil guides - dbl foot # 16 and 10 and then # 3 snakes for the rest. For the tt I wanted to use the Recoil but didnt like the way they attached the ring to the tube (leaving a sharp tube end near the ring for the line to rub) so I bought a Fuji titanium tt but could only get one with a ring # 7 which I must admit looks kind of s
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Hi, I have a NTiQ 9 foot 9 weight 3 piece blank and I was thinking om using the top two sections to make a 6 foot casting rod for single hand use. But I have never build a casting rod before and I would like some input on the project. I have found out that I want a pistol grip and an exposed blank trigger seat but which guides do I put on and which sizes ? Can I make it a spiral wrap ?
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Hi, I'm about to build a 9 foot 4-piece 8 weight. I've decided to use Recoils for the entire rod. I asked REC for their guide size recommendation and they suggested 3 stripping guides (two legged) size 20-16-12 and then snakes sizes 5 -4-3-2 for the rest. Also they suggested loosing the size 12 and replacing it with a snake size 6. Now - I looked at Sage's webpage for their recommendation
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I had something like this happen to my too - wraps being unevenly colored. Its not the Threadmaster finish which is great and easy to work with, but in my opinion it has to be applied throughout the entire wrap at once and not as I did trying to fill the tunnels by applying small daps at the end of the guide feet and then waiting for it to bleed out along the guide foot. I then went back to the f
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Thanks for your replies - something to think about. I was just surprised that the GLX was so "heavy". Is the Perigee 9/10 wt a "bad" blank ? Its relatively "cheap". I seem to remember it has an ERN around 9,65 Peter
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I was searching for a light 9 foot multipiece 10 wt blank and the lightest I've found is the Lamiglass Perigee 9' 9/10 wt 3-piece at 1 7/8 oz. Surprisingly the one known as "the lightest" i.e. Loomis GLX weighs in at 2.65 oz - thats the 9' 4-piece 10 wt blank. Are there any lighter 10 wt blanks out there ? Thanks Peter
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I dont have any buttons at the top :-) Just had my computer replaced and nothing is working now :-)
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I only get to here - must be some restrictions that my administrator needs to remove. Thanks Bill :-)
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I seem to be unable to access the CCS data once I enter the CCS Data Site - the one where blanks and rods are listed - can anyone give me a direct link to the blanks listing ? Thanks Peter
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Thanks for your suggestions, I use a fly tying bobbin - a C&F with a ceramic tube and my hands are soft as a babys b... , I always wash my hands and try not to touch the thread and I dont have the same problem with other threads which is why it puzzles me that the white is creating so many problems. Must have been a bad spool then I guess. Thanks Peter
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Hi, I've used white Gudebrod size A nylon for some decorative wraps - some directly on the blank and some over another wrap - and every time I've experienced more fuzzies (I burn them away) and more bubbles on and around the white thread. Have any of you had similar problems with white thread or did I just get a bad spool. Thanks Peter
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Does anyone (other than Struble) make solid titanium reel seats like the Struble U21 and U22 ? And which reel seats - apart from the above and Fuji-style reel seats) do you find stand up the best to saltwater use ? (for fly rods) Thanks Peter
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Thank you for your suggestions guys - as I will be doing several samples made in several ways I will use some of your methods to try and destroy the samples :-)
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Hi, I found a "fluid" which should be able to both glue and impregnate wood. I am going to try it on some birch bark shives and make some short pieces of rod handles and reel seat inserts and then cut them up/break them to examine penetration, strength etc.. If it works to that point I would like to know how it will hold up over a period of time - like 10 years. Now 10 years is a
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Having just finished my first rattan grip I would have to say I love it. If you soak it first its easy to work with and it doesnt splinter or peel. Finished with the thread between the wraps and a nice finishing wrap and warnished with spar varnish I think you get a beautifull result which have proved itself over time. Remember spar varnish is used on boats - you walk on it - so I really dont thi
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Hi Andy which of the CTS models is it ? Thanks Peter
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Thanks Don, I wasnt sure if doing it like that would hold up very well, but if thats the way to do it then thats what I'll do.
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I find that some cheap cork with all its imperfection could make into a beautifull handle. Actually some of the beauty of some of the wood we use comes from imprefections in the wood. But since low grade cork with all the pits does not stand up very well to use I was thinking if cork could be stablilized like wood ? Has anyone thought of this or tried it and what are your thoughts on this i
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