For cork and EVA, the Grizzly will work. I've used one for over ten years. Burl cork about pushes it to the limit, though; I definitely wouldn't try to work with anything harder than burl. All you have to get is a good set of mandrels, and you're good to go.
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I couldn't find Georgia Rod Builders on FB
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Hey, I might like to participate, too. I've been building about 15 years, always in my spare time. Sold a bit over 1,000 rods over the past few years. My regular job has gotten a lot more challenging the past few years, plus it was getting to the point where I had no time to do any fishing myself, so I've backed off a bit lately. Still do the occasional rod for an old customer, or a friend, but n
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For about 10 years, I've been using mostly Coates and Clark Trilobal polyester. It is not coated; I have never had a problem with fish eyes. I've gotten used to the way the polyester acts (less stretch) and like it much better than nylon. The best thing is that you can find it in local stores, and you can actually see the color, not just a picture on the internet. Isn't the new Fuji thread pol
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This is good news! I will have to try some. From my other (work) life, I have a bit of experience with polyester versus nylon. Polyester has many benefits. In fact, just about every rod I wrap has polyester thread (Coats and Clark Trilobal polyester) and I like it much better than any nylon thread. Maybe the new Fuji will be the ultimate!
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Jay Burns Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Anyone ever use the IC722 for topwater > applications. Great advice so far, really > appreciate all the input. Like someone said, everybody has different preferences. But, for me, the IC722 is the absolute best rod I've ever used for "walking the dog" lures. I can control the lure so much bette
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I would be a little careful about the syringes you use. It's never happened to me, since I use the syringes sold specifically for rodbuilding (and get a long life out of them. Only throw them away when the measurements are completely worn off), but I've heard horror stories of getting syringes that contain silicone lubricant. That doesn't work too well with the thread finish.
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Yep again
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The cheap brushes But make sure the fibers don't > come out in the finish I've found that you can take needlenose pliars and crimp the collar of those cheap brushes, and the bristles stay in a lot better.
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Well, I sure do repair a lot of factory rods with pulled out guides. I have two in right now, each with a missing single foot guide. I've never, that I know of, had a guide pull out. Every single foot guide I've ever wrapped has the Forhan. Once you get used to it, it takes no longer. I can't imagine a reason not to use it.
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No, we shouldn't expect any supplier to necessarily tell us who provides private brands. If you go to the grocery store and see store brand saltine crackers, for instance, do you expect to know who made them? You certainly won't find out. They have them made to certain specs, and that is all that is really important. It's the same with blanks or other components.
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > As long as you use the syringes with the same > portion of the finish Resin to resin You should > not have any problems I have switched when using > TM or Flex coat No problems A second to this. I've got one set of syringes going, and use them with three different brands of thread finish. I've c
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Even if you don't go the route of leaving them in the bottle there is no need to spend any time cleaning syringes. I just pull the plungers about halfway back, wipe off the tips, and lay them on a piece of cardboard. Probably got two years on the set of FC syringes I'm using now, with never any problems.
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Bert, you might want to look at the MHX SJ783 (or 843, if you want a 7 footer). I build a lot of these in a spinning configuration, and have one myself. I can easily cast an unweighted Zoom Trick Worm a good distance. I built this blank in a casting config, for my son, and he loves it. He can cast a little square billed crankbait really well with a Curado, and I'm sure the Shad Rap wouldn't be an
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I keep records on a build sheet that I got from this website; all the specific details. Have a Word template I worked up for an invoice, and there I just list the basics (spinning, casting) and usually the type blank.
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I've built several flyrod blanks into spinning rods, for a group of UL fishermen. Mostly 8 foot 4 wt. blanks. Once they learn how to cast them (quite a bit different than a normal spinning rod), they love them. No big differences in build mechanics from a spinning rod at all.
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Everyone develops their own way of doing things, but for me, I've always applied epoxy over decals and buttwraps by brushing longitudinally. I picked it up somewhere when I started, maybe from the book Tom wrote. I think it would be very tough to put epoxy on a long area by brushing AROUND the blank. I used to put too much on and let the excess sag off. After time, and many rods, you get to wher
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Barry Thomas Sr Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I've gotten them in a few days Yep, they are always very quick. But, I think the problem right now is that they just went on vacation, starting today, getting back August 2. It caught me, too. I have four decals that I shoulda ordered earlier this week. Now, I'll just have to wait. I don't think there's any
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I think you have to just keep on practicing. I use a lot of 3mm guides, and hold them on while wrapping with masking tape. Tried the rubber tubing, cut into small pieces, but couldn't find a small enough tube to hold guides on the very tip end of a blank. So, I just went back to tape. For the tip, I cut a piece, with scissors, across the width of a 3/4" roll of blue tape. Cut it very thin.
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Hey, Randy, welcome. You've found the best place to come to learn about rodbuilding. I think I'm not too far away from you, and will be glad to help you pick out stuff.
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Sounds to me more like an issue of not enough packing. If this is the case, no matter how much CP you put on you will still have the darkness of the blank showing through.
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I get mine from Mudhole. Think they are called "dropshot hook keepers."
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The good news is that all of this gets much easier with practice. I had issues with all of these things when I started. Now, I can pretty much do a guidewrap with my eyes closed.
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This has become indeed a problem. I build a lot of rods with either cork or burl cork, and a rubberized cork ring as a butt cap. A number of the suppliers used to sell plugs for the holes; these plugs were 1/2" thick and tapered, from a little over 1/2" to about 3/8". It was easy to butter them with Rodbond and push them in as far as possible. When the glue set, you could cut them
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Jon, I just got online from the hotel for the first time. And, just got back from the dinner. Thank you, Gary and Karen - dinner was a fantastic experience, and the blank feels awesome!
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This is getting to be quite a tradition for me, to worry and worry about getting the edition with the tickets, then having it come in a couple of weeks before the show. It always makes it here in time!
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I've built several 5 1/2 foot pistol grip rods for a guy. He told me he wanted it "like a broomstick". He uses these for spinnerbait fishing (for bass). For the first one I really had no clue, so I cut 6 inches off a 6 foot "trash can blank" I picked up in High Point (back when Andy had the booth with the trash cans. I cut 3" off the tip, and 3" off the butt. He lo
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I don't think so, either. I think that the yellowing is caused by exposure to light (the UV). So, if you kept it in the dark this may help
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Unless it's some real specific color, just about all the thread I use is Coats and Clark Tribobal polyester, 40 weight. I've used dozens of colors, for several years, and never once had any kind of fisheye problem, so I don't think this thread is coated.
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Hmm, never thought of doing that. I buy the double edged blades (sorta hard to find these days), as they are a lot sharper than the single edged "industrial) blades. I cut them into two pieces, with scissors, then put a masking tape "grip" on the back side. That way, I can get two uses from each blade.
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