I don't think this handle material is really new. I live pretty close to where that company is headquartered, and I have built several rods for guys who have used these rods. To a person, they all commented on how heavy they are. I've never even seen one, but apparently the weight is indeed an issue. Steve Broadwell
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Floss threaders. There have been several posts here about them in the past, and a picture, I think. They work fantastically well.
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I've never flyfished, and wanted to learn. Built an 8 1/2 foot 2 pc. 5 wt. for myself recently. Used a Batson IM6 blank, not much money at all. The first time I tried, with absolutely no instructions, I about gave up. Couldn't cast it 10 feet! A fellow I work with took it, and was able to cast the entire line, so I figured it was made ok! He gave me some tips, and I can get the fly out far enoug
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You might want to also look at the Library, at the article on making your own. That's how I got started. I followed that article, just made mine with a little bit longer base. I have a nice power wrapper, now. But, when I want to do something really precise, I use the wrapper I made.
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Paul, you are right on. I do rodbuilding part time, generally only on the weekends, and every now and then a night when I am not out of town. I generally sell about 60-70 rods a year, and have for the past few years. I too am 100% legit, and have paid very little in expenses. I did my own website, so easy these days with the content management systems many companies have. I made my own business
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I just bought some of the Diamondite CP, and used it one time. Put one coat over a green Coats and Clarke trilobal polyester. (btw, this is the type thread I use the most, and it DOESN"T require CP due to silicone issues. I just wanted to preserve the green this time). It worked great! I was pretty pleased with it's performance, and it is much easier to apply than the old Gudebrod, which al
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I've been experimenting a bit with Diamondite. It definitely is different than epoxy. On the first rod, I had a problem with the material staying soft, but it eventually hardened. I was using syringes, and I think the activator, being pretty thin, "blew out", and I didn't have enough. I learned yesterday to be careful with the lightbulbs. I let one get a little too close to the turning
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Spencer Phipps Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > The ISB822.5 isn't anything like the IMB 783 in > action or power that I remember. You are right, it is considerably different. But, I've made a number of them up as casting rods. Makes a good worm rod, if you aren't pulling fish out of thick weeds.
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Not necessary to use underwraps at all. If you do a good job of prepping the guides, there is nothing to damage the blank. Plus, thread really won't prevent the damage in any case. I've built hundreds of panfish and bass rods, and have yet to use the first underwrap. Never had a problem. Steve Broadwell
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I use the double edged blades like Jeff. They seem to be a lot sharper than the single edged ones, definitely a lot thinner. But, being cheap, I cut them into two pieces, right down the middle. Then, put masking tape on the cut side, to give something to grip. That way, I end up with two blades from each.
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I have never used anything but the floss threaders, since I have been buidling rods. Actually came up with the idea in my own mind, then when I found this board I found that there were several threads about it. Works great! I can get many rods out of one threader, and they are easy to keep track of. Steve Broadwell
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Yes, it is very feasible. I have done quite a few of them. Including one of my own rods, and it has held up great, and is not noticeable at all in the feel of the rod. I have just used fiberglass oversleeves, up that high on the rod. Steve Broadwell
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As always for the three shows I have attended, it was a fantasitic event. There is no other place where one can see everything that is new, plus get all the training. Not just from the seminars, either; you can learn an incrediable amount just from speaking with the people in the various booths. I too would pay more. With coffee at $2 a cup, the $8 admission is pretty low.
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I've built several hundred rods with the handwrapper described in the library. About a month ago, bought the American Tackle wrapper, with the upgraded Pac Bay chuck. It is so much better. Not so much for the power wrapping, although, once you get the hang of it, it really is a lot quicker. But, more for the rod supports, not having to move everything around between every guide wrap. For what I d
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This is interesting info. Growing up actually setting type, I learned long ago when to use a serif typeface. I too see that many graphic designers don't have a clue about this. Or, my personal hot button, they don't know to NOT use reversed small type. There was one boat magazine that I just quit reading, because of this. RodMaker is just about the most reader friendly publication I have seen i
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Thanks for that idea! I have used superglue to stick it down, but that is a little messy. The hot melt is a much better idea.
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Yeah, Eric, I meant arbors. Couldn't think of that word last night.
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I have had the same problem. The sticky stuff lets go pretty easily. I tried wrapping the tape, then tying a thread around it before applying Rodbond. But, I don't even use the stuff anymore. It is so much easier and quicker just to use one of the various mandrels. Glue them in, then ream them out to the proper inside diameter. Steve Broadwell
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I built myself a Rainshadow IC722 to take with me on my regular job travels, figured the 6' length was about the longest I could safely carry. Intended it to be a jack of all trade rod, which it is. But, I use it for all of my topwater fishing now, even when I am in the boat and can handle a longer rod. It is the best rod I have ever used for "walking the dog" with a Spook or Sammy, an
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I third the IP844. I have built several of them, for the same application you are talking about. They are very good
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I do my work in my unheated basement. In stays fairly moderate, temperature wise, but does get into the 60s in the winter. I've found that I have absolutely no luck with finish if the temp is below 70 F. I have an electric heater for the "normally cold" days, and a big kerosene one when it is really cold. I also think every finish is slightly different, in how it reacts to colder temp
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Bill Batson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Jim Gamble, > If you were to suggest a Rainshadow which one > would you pick?? > > Bill Batson Bill; I just did an IP844 for this application. It's for a guy down in the panhandle of Florida, and he loves it. Has a great action - I'm thinking about making up a rod on that blank for myself.
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I had some trouble with the smallest of the set. Did one grip, cork and exotic burl, and the abrasive melted right off. Of course, Batson took care of it right away - they are such a good company! I think that this may be because the smallest has a finer abrasive that the others, and maybe builds up more heat. Haven't had any more trouble, but I may replace the abrasive with a coarser grit when
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I always use the Forhan locing wrap on single footed guides. It takes no more effort, doesn't increase the weight, and gives so much more strength that I don't see any reason not to use it. Steve Broadwell
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I've had good success with Rodbond, colored with a pigment. I let the RB get several hours old, and a little bit stiff, then just apply it with a popsicle stick. To smooth it, I wet a finger with alcohol and hold it against the turning rod. You can get it pretty smooth, but the alcohol is needed to keep your finger from sticking.
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Mike is absolutely right. I built myself a Rainshadown RX7 with a matte surface, and, to save time, didn't put a coat of finish under the waterslide decal. It adhered fine, but has a funny, hazy look, just where the decal is. I think it is the matte surface showing through.
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I third what Andrew and Mike say about Decal Connection. If you haven't contacted them and tried their services, you ought to! I tried all sorts of pens and inks, and came up with several that work fine. But, my writing is so lousy that the best ink'/pen combo ain't gonna make it look good. Decal Connection has all kinds of fonts, and you can pick out one that looks handwritten, but is consistent
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That is a very nice blank. I've built 4 of the RX7 variety for one "semi-pro" bass fisherman. Two have been casting, two have been spinning. He uses one of the casting ones for Carolina Rig fishing, with lighter than normal sinkers. I also built one of the RX8+ versions for another guy. I built him a GLX last year, and this one is much better feeling. I don't think you could get much b
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I have never had any problem with any of the registration, but suddenly I am having the same issue as Jerry. It tells me you must be registered. I haven't cleared cache or anything recently, and I was on the photo page just yesterday. When I tried to login, it wouldn't accept my user name and pw (I keep them written, just in case this happens). Then, it couldn't find my email to when I tried the
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Both these really work! I had been putting the decals on without them, just using water. The results were OK, but not outstanding. I broke down and bought both solutions a couple of months ago, and wish I had done it when I first started using decals. They look so much better now.
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