<p>I appreciate this website so much and wanted to try and contribute. Here is a cheap laser alignment tool I made today. It works great! Bought the laser at Lowes for $14 and change. Hopefully the photos will explain the process, if not feel free to ask.</p>
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Update, yesterday afternoon I had a few spare minutes so I did a couple of 6 second blasts in the micro and stirred the resin between. The consistency of the resin was more like what I am used to seeing after warming and stirring. Hopefully tonight I will have a few spare moments to look at it and see if it maintains.
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Yep i learned the power of the microwave oven a long time ago...short duration bursts are best. Thanks for the thoughts Roger.
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I will give it a go in the micro and see if it improves, thanks for the replies!
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I recently purchased a new 2-oz package of ProPaste. First time I used it I noticed some small chunks in the resin portion. With a bit of work I was able to smooth out the chunks, applied the ProPaste and all seemed just fine. Today I was mixing another batch and noticed right in the center of the container of the resin portion a hard ball of resin around 3/4" in diameter. Is this a typi
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Thanks for that offer Bruce! Where are you located? I kinda figured the wood dowel would not be a good option but had to ask. Ya I get it that it isn't rocket science Billy. I want to practice doing inlays, trim bands and so on. I figure the less I am messing around with what I want to be the finished rod the less likely I am to scratch / damage that blank. Plus if it turns out to be a nice
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I want to continue to hone my wrapping and thread finishing skills but I am running out of old rods to practice on. Would wooden dowel rods be an acceptable substitute to an actual rod blank? Just looking for a cheap option.
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Thanks for the help guys! I will give the suggestions a go!
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I bought the ProKote small 4-oz bottles of thread finish and they came with the 3ml syringes. I am now nearing the half-full point of the bottles and am scratching my head as to how best to fill the syringes when the fluid is below the point where I can reach it by just sticking the syringe in the bottle top. How do you guys do this?
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Thanks for the thoughts all! Jack, I tried your method and ended up doing that with rest of the guides I put on this build, works great. Acouple of times I didn't get the tag cut short enough and it was sticking through so I had to redo. I noticed when I was cutting the tag end on the start of a wrap that I wasn't getting the fuzzies there so now I am thinking that I was putting too much ten
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Man I love this place, good folks happy to share knowledge...THANKS!!
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I've been strolling through photos of finished guide wraps and I have noticed some of the them have very crisp, clean edges to the thread finish while others do not. Is there a method to getting these nice edges or just lots of practice? In my mind's eye, I imagine the possibility of applying tape to get a good line, applying finish and then removing the tape to get that nice edge?
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Thanks so much for all the help fellas! The blade I am using is new out of the package but they are Walmart cheapies so I am wondering if that may be the problem. I may give it a try cutting the tag end before I pull the loop all the way out. I have been practicing my wraps and thought I had this issue squared away but when I go and start my first build they are back again, figures. I was hoping
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I cannot seem to get past the fuzzy thread when cutting the tag end at the end of my wraps. I am pulling the tag end towards the end of the wrap (guide insert direction) enough to create a small opening in the threads, laying the razor blade flat against the wraps and pulling the tag end into the razor. Could i be wrapping the thread too tight or? The guides are rather tough to move.
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Thanks Tom! I figured that the stripper guide height was the culprit but since this is my first build I wanted to get experienced thoughts. I was hoping to get by with the fewest guides possible, I may reconsider and go with the revolver too. This is a jig / worm rod so no issues with hard pulling lures, just hard pulling fish I hope. :)
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I have been researching the various methods of the spiral wrap and I like the simple spiral but on the 7' bass bait-casting rod I am building with micro guides the line was very close if not touching the rod as I loaded ithe rod to test placement. I moved the stripper guide less than 10 degrees off of top dead center and it made all the difference. So my question is, does that stripper guide hav
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Leigh, That is really neat! Do you have anymore photos of that inlay that you could share? Did you create the graphic for the inlay? I would like to try this with a bass or panfish graphic when I get far enough along in the rodbuilding craft to feel comfy doing it. Any info you can share is most appreciated.
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William (Bill) Jones Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Sounds to me like this is the right time to learn > about the "epoxy ramp". It can be molded to fit > the existing situation. Just a thought. > Bill Bill, Is the epoxy ramp made of thread finish epoxy or some other epoxy? I am assuming a very short ramp from seat to blank...I am
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mark, > Trim the part of the winding check that is > necessary to make for a nice looking check.k > Roger Is that the ID or OD that you are referring to? It seems to me that if I trim the OD it will not look very good but I'm not sure trimming the ID will result in a good fit...please confirm Ro
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Mark Fink Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > As some may recall, I am building my 1st rod , > casting with a Fuji ECSM seat and no foregrip. I > received a rubber winding check from Lance, THANKS > Lance for helping get the check figured out, it is > the correct size. > My issue is that the blank is not perfectly > centered in the seat at
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As some may recall, I am building my 1st rod , casting with a Fuji ECSM seat and no foregrip. I received a rubber winding check from Lance, THANKS Lance for helping get the check figured out, it is the correct size. My issue is that the blank is not perfectly centered in the seat at the point where the check sits so there is just enough offset to make the check not sit flush all the way around,
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Matt Ruggie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What I mean is the threaded portion of the reel > seat. When you mount your reel to the seat there > will be a threaded portion sticking out from in > front of the seats hood. here's a link that > shows it > > > your_grip.htm OK gotcha, thanks!
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Matt Ruggie Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > those checks do finish off nice and clean. I > usually turn a small piece of eva, burl, or > ruberized cork to a similar size as those check to > finish off a no foregrip handle. Remember to > trim the threads or you'll end up with a threaded > foregrip. Thanks for the reply Matt but I'm n
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Todd Badgley Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > You definitely want the thread to be slightly > behind the wrap. my wraps are very tight, but you > should experiment to see what works best for you. > I use a dremel with a flat cutting wheel and pinch > the micro guides between my fingers to lightly > grind just the end of the guide. I grin
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Big shout out to Lance at Swampland, thanks!! He is sending me one of those checks he suggested. I think this is just what I want for this build.
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OK Thanks fellas! I plan to get those bottle tops, cannot recall the name at the moment, the ones that I can leave the syringes in...self healing or something to that effect.
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So if I am hearing you guys correctly, there is no need to clean the syringes after use?
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Col Chaseling and Mike, Thanks for the tips!! lorenzo, The guides are 5 and 4.5 IIRC. They are strictly practice wraps on an old rod, not intended for actual use.
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