As some may recall, I am building my 1st rod , casting with a Fuji ECSM seat and no foregrip. I received a rubber winding check from Lance, THANKS Lance for helping get the check figured out, it is the correct size.
My issue is that the blank is not perfectly centered in the seat at the point where the check sits so there is just enough offset to make the check not sit flush all the way around, specifically on top where I will see it every time I pick it up. I'm guessing it is only 1/64" to 1/32", not much but the perfectionist in me sure would like to remedy this. Am i being too picky or can this be fixed?
I was thinking of making a wood shim to center it up but was worried I may cause a pressure point that will come back to haunt me.
I would like suggestions from the members, what can be done?

Also, is the seat not being centered a common issue? When I epoxied it on I noticed at that time that it was off center and I put a shim in to help and it did fix some of it but it didn't cure it 100%.

Mark,
Pretty simple.
Just use a razor blade to trim the winding check on the thin side of the blank. When the rod is wrapped and finished, the fact that the winding check is not round will never be noticed.

Roger

by the way, in the future, use a foam arbor with the hole centered to insure that your reel gets centered when doing the assembly.

When I ream or drill out the foam arbor for my rod builds, I wear jersey gloves to hold the arbor in my fingers. I use a circular file chucked in a drill that is running backwards to ream the arbor. As I am reaming the arbor to the size of the blank , I will let the arbor slip in my gloved fingers frequently so that the hole stays centered in the foam arbor. If you free hand drill or ream the arbor, and keep the arbor in a fixed position in your fingers, it is very easy to have the hole get off center.
But, if you ream and let the arbor slip and spin a bit now and then, the hole will self center in the foam.

Take care
Roger

Next time dry fit several times and look at the seat You should be able to tell if it is not centered Fix it then with maybe a arbor of 1/4 " tape to center it or whatever it takes Check - then glue when correct

Like I say try fit several times Reamers you can use buy hand and I have never had a hole off center With a drill it goes to fast Seat arbors are soft

Bill - willierods.com

Mark Fink Wrote:
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> As some may recall, I am building my 1st rod ,
> casting with a Fuji ECSM seat and no foregrip. I
> received a rubber winding check from Lance, THANKS
> Lance for helping get the check figured out, it is
> the correct size.
> My issue is that the blank is not perfectly
> centered in the seat at the point where the check
> sits so there is just enough offset to make the
> check not sit flush all the way around,
> specifically on top where I will see it every time
> I pick it up. I'm guessing it is only 1/64" to
> 1/32", not much but the perfectionist in me sure
> would like to remedy this. Am i being too picky or
> can this be fixed?
> I was thinking of making a wood shim to center it
> up but was worried I may cause a pressure point
> that will come back to haunt me.
> I would like suggestions from the members, what
> can be done?
>
> Also, is the seat not being centered a common
> issue? When I epoxied it on I noticed at that time
> that it was off center and I put a shim in to help
> and it did fix some of it but it didn't cure it
> 100%.

I take it that you are you saying to trim the ID of the check not the OD correct?

Don't know how bad it is but you could think of putting a wrap of thread and nice coat of finish over that

I would also think he meant the OD or you will have a gap under the check if you do the ID Then maybe coat with finish carefully so you don't get it on the seat - tape over the seat end

Bill - willierods.com

Mark,
Trim the part of the winding check that is necessary to make for a nice looking check.k
Roger

roger wilson Wrote:
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> Mark,
> Trim the part of the winding check that is
> necessary to make for a nice looking check.k
> Roger


Is that the ID or OD that you are referring to?
It seems to me that if I trim the OD it will not look very good but I'm not sure trimming the ID will result in a good fit...please confirm Roger.

Sounds to me like this is the right time to learn about the "epoxy ramp". It can be molded to fit the existing situation. Just a thought.
Bill

William (Bill) Jones Wrote:
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> Sounds to me like this is the right time to learn
> about the "epoxy ramp". It can be molded to fit
> the existing situation. Just a thought.
> Bill

Bill,
Is the epoxy ramp made of thread finish epoxy or some other epoxy?
I am assuming a very short ramp from seat to blank...I am all ears and would like to hear more.

Others with more eperience than I can help here. The first thing I do is to mix up some gel epoxy and mold it around the base of the rod up to the edge of the reel seat. Got to be careful to not get the epoxy on the rel seat threads if this is down locking. Clean up thoroughly with the solvent of your choice. Hold the epoxy down just a little so the reel seat is a little proud so thread and finish will meet just at the reel seat. Then I wrap thread up the ramp and apply a thin coat of finish over the thread if that is warranted.
I have tinted the epoxy and left it as is. Try it out on an old throw away to get the process down. Once I painted the arbor and used just the epoxy. The check like Lance sent has all but eliminated my use of the epoxy ramp. But as you have learned, the blank has to be centered in the arbor.
Good Luck
Bill