Is this what you use to clean the syringes with? Assuming i should clean them after each use.
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Bruce Johnstone Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- Thanks for the tip Bruce! I would have been afraid that the insert would come out or be damaged, would have never thought to do that. > I have a small grinder. I use a small bolt #8x32 > or similar size depending on the size of the > guide. I put the guide between two nuts. The > bolt serves as
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Sorry Tom, didn't realize no photos here... What's the best way to hold these micro guides when filing them down? I tried for a bit on the double foot but really did not get much off and didn't even attempt the single foot.
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If this is printed somewhere I have overlooked it. All the mounted double foot guides I see have the single leg of the guide towards the front or tip of the rod and the twin leg side of the guide towards the rear or reel side of the rod. Why is that?
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I know this is nothing special but I was so excited I had to post some pics! I started last night with the double foot micro guide and had a few hideous wraps. My biggest problem was cutting the tag end at the end of a wrap. This morning I finally realized my error...I was pulling the tag end through and only far enough to cut instead of pulling the tag end all the way through and then cutting.
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Billy, Those are really neat grips! Garry, I may give that a try, i have a drill press so I think that would make this small project easy.
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Jeff, The idea of an epoxy ramp sounds interesting. Are you talking about epoxy like what you glue the handle with (i have the pro paste) or are you talking about thread finish? As short as this grip is, could I chuck it in a drill press and shape it maybe? I do not have a powered wrapper. Tom, I did a search on the plugs but I don't think I found them. Could you post a link or part number
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I now have the rear grip and seat attached and its time to do something with the front of the seat. I bought a handle kit from Mudhole, it came with this front cork grip and 3 different sized winding checks. When I put the front grip on it just doesn't look good to me, kinda like this big blob on the front of the seat. It actually is slightly larger in diameter than the rear grip (post not intend
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Russell Brunt Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mark, do yourself a favor and spend the money on a > set of reamers. That and the flex coat pilot bits > makes those poly arbors fast and easy. I did get the Batson reamer set. The bits will have to wait awhile. I have a great selection of files so surely I will be able to get r done with one of them.
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Greg Marshall Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mark, > Once you've got the arbor glued in, you can ream > it down to almost nothing, as matter of fact, > beyond nothing. Remember there's a tiny layer of > epoxy between the od of the arbor and the id of > the reel seat. With the porosity of the arbor, > the epoxy will penetrate somewha
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Bob McKamey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Pro Kote really works best at temps above 70. If > you leave the rod in the cooler temp, it is going > to take much longer to cure out and harden. I > would not even store the Pro Kote in the cooler > area. If you do decide to apply the finish in the > basement area, I would at least bring it
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Ken Preston Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mark - > For the handle - follow Tom's instructions using > thread. This will more evenly build up the gap > than spaced tape arbors which can leave the grip > unsupported - really a bad idea for cork as it can > crack and split. > > For the reel seat you can check out your local
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bill boettcher Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > if the seat is loose Blank though you should have > another that fits correctly > Next time you get parts get them from the same > supplier so they can Fit the parts to the blank Bill, I got all the materials thru Mudhole and they matched the seat to the blank. A wee bit of reaming of the rear p
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Greg Marshall Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Buy a Flex Coat foam arbor, the same size as the > reel seat, cut it lengthwise to fit in the end of > the reel seat that is too big. Don't go so deep > into the reel seat that you get into the exposed > area. I usually cut it about the same length as > the run of nut threads on the barrel of
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HMMM...upon further inspection, the urethane arbor will not work as it is basically the same OD as the blank OD at the spot it needs to be sitting. Also, I don't believe I can do a tape arbor as the rear portion of the seat will not pass over the arbor. Soooo, I'm guessing that I need to put the seat into position with epoxy on the rear portion and then use a syringe to fill the void all around t
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The reel seat area in front of the open exposed blank portion is the only part that is too big. The reamer never touched that part of the seat. I lucked out for my first try and got the seat fitting just right from the exposed portion towards the butt...just need to snug up the front part. I am going to try sanding down the urethane arbor for the fix. I like the idea of a solid piece of urethane
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Thanks Tom! For the thread for shimming the handle, all I have right now is size A. Could I use thicker sewing type thread?
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All my materials arrived yesterday for my first build (7' MHF St Croix SC5 bass casting rod). I have got the handle and reel seat reamed out so that they fit in the desired location but now have a couple of questions. 1. The butt end of the cork handle, approximately half of the cork, is loose on the blank, the cork ID is greater than the blank OD. I am thinking I should build up some tape arbo
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Awesome, thanks fellas!
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Any problems with doing this? I am going to use Prokote and my unfinished basement offers a quiet location. I would hazard a guess that the temp down there is in the mid to upper 60's F. I have a dehumidifier running down there as well.
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Ron Schneider Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > > One note about spiraling right is that when laying > the casting rod down on a deck, the transition > guides are not touching the deck. > Is that with a right handed reel? If one had a left hand reel they might consider a left wrap to keep the guides off the deck? Don't mean to hijack the
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Well fellas, I just completed my materials and equipment order and now the wait begins...thanks again for all the feedback!!
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I truly appreciate all of the help from this board! To those who have emailed me info and suggestions, THANKS so much. I am so close now to making the next order to start my first build...I feel like a kid the week before Xmas!!
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Col Chaseling Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Mark, > Your welcome. It's nice to get a reply like that. > There has been a few guys lately that get good > backed up advice and can't be bothered to say > thanks, some manners would be appreciated as some > of us old farts that have not gone down the > Alzheimers track yet have good me
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roger wilson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Mark, > Just a couple of comments. > Cleaning any items of coating epoxy tends to be a > bit of a bother and can turn into a major bother. > > So, in spite of the other comment about mixing > cups, I very much prefer the use of the plastic > mixing cups for both slow drying assembly e
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Col Chaseling, BIG thank you for the email, I plan to check them out today. Woody, Thanks for the tip on powering the reamers. I definitely plan to do it by hand for the time being. Thanks Steve! I am looking forward to getting some dirt and epoxy on it. Scott, I came up with my guide sizes from some suggestions by other rod builders and by measuring some of my rods that I have now. You
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This is my pending and subject to change materials / equipment list that I think I need to get started on the blank in my original post, please feel free to comment on my selections. Guides- 1 BKWAG10J 1 BKWAG8J 1 BKWAG6J 6 BKTAG6J 1 BFAT6 (5.5) 1 8OZ pkg Prokote Thread finish 1 8OZ pkg Propaste epoxy 1 125 ct pkg 2.5 OZ mixing cups 1 set dream reamers 1 plastic burnishing tool 1 w
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Col Chaseling Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Hi Mark, > There are some good guides about with SiC rings > which are resonably priced and good quality. > Unhide your email or send me one and I'll give you > the details. Their not a sponsor, yet, so can't > mention them here. Thanks for the offer, email is now visible.
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Fuji K series in Alconite it shall be!!
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Thanks for all the replies fellas and please keep them coming! I have several old rods in the corner of the garage in various stages of disrepair and I definitely plan to make a couple of them practice blanks. For this build I just want to concentrate on making a high quality rod, bling, flash and all that neat stuff will come with additional builds. I want to do a nice complimenting color
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