I'd suggest starting a new thread for this question Clint, it may get lost along the way. One idea to consider is to find a source of solid rings and drill slightly undersized, then ream as needed. Mudhole sells rubberized cork rings with and without a center hole. Give them a call, they may also sell real cork without holes.
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I ordered NY Yankees fingernail decals from here: www.CountryCraftsnBling.com You just can not appreciate how much I hated ordering Yankees decals from anywhere, Red Sox Nation and all that. But I'm making a rod for my best friend (even if he is a Yankees fan)
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Too afraid of ruining a $100+ blank in my case, I'm just a hobby builder. I use a drill press and just take my time reaming.
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Thanks Mike! Needed a bit of good humor today!
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Agree 100% with Chad, Laser ink systems and Ink Jet ink systems use very different chemistries. Get some ink jet compatible substrate and you'll be good to go. John (worked on ink jet inks for almost 10 years)
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Ellis beat me to it....I was going to warn you that you might need to purchase the drill at the same time. None of my drill had the required collar dimensions and I just didn't need to add another drill to my collection so I went the drill press attachment route. John
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That would depend on the specific inks used. Pigment inks are resistant to fade while dye based inks will fade fairly rapidly. Unfortunately it is not always easy or even possible to tell which printers use which inks. Epson had a line of inks some years ago, I think they were branded DuraBrite or something similar that utilized pigment based inks, not sure if they are still on the market or not.
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Hi Mick Just wanted to alert you that you may have had your email address hacked. You helped me 2 years ago with a decal question, so I was in your address book. Please see your email from detailing what I recently received from your account.
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Maybe take it to a machine shop that has a compressed sand cleaning booth. Have to turn the pressure way down, but that's the only way I can think of to keep a textured finish on it.
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I just bought one two weeks ago. I'm not familiar with the GPS system, but if you tell me what measurements you need, I will try and get them for you tomorrow when I return home. If my email is hidden, it is: johnsl0502@gmail dot com (Correct the obvious change)
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Roger said : "After wrapping the single rod, I said, "I will never wrap another rod by hand ever again." I haven't. " LOL!! At my level of skill, adding power would only allow me to create gaps and crossovers at a faster rate than I do now! Not in the cards for me, that's for sure. John
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I just finished a 7' MHX SJ842-2 this past weekend, taking it out tomorrow. Practicing in the backyard last night had me smiling! I also bought a 7' MHX MB843-2 which I'll build as a casting rod. These sound close to what you want I think. (Disclaimer: Just a novice builder in it for a hobby. My recommendations may just be worth what you paid for them!) John
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I'm not near mine right now, will measure it when I get home if someone doesn't post by that time. In the meantime, I have the kit from Mudhole and the rings that come with that kit are advertised on their website as 1 1/4". They fit very snugly in the jig to the point where I need to push them out from the bottom with a thin tool of some sort. If you're making your own, probably best to see
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I'm only a novice hobby builder and so haven't used but a fraction of the products available, but I'm not aware of any that require UV initiation for curing. I am a scientist working with photopolymers though. UV initiators are, as a lot, nasty chemicals. In addition, the wavelengths of light used can be very harmful to your eyes and great care should be taken to shield yourself from any stray li
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One more way to save on shipping...Mudhole (and probably others as well) will let you order on-line and pick your stuff up at the Expo, no shipping chages. (At least they did the last couple of years.) John
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A drill index from the hardware store, read the drill (tip top) in 64's of an inch
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Could you just repaint? or does painting add so much weight that the action is altered? John
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The procedure you described is pretty much what I remember reading in this forum a few weeks ago, sorry but I can't remember who initiated the post. One additional point was offered by several...drill several small pilot holes through the plastic chip. These holes will act as channels when gluing up the assembly and will improve the adherence of cork//plastic//cork system. You might try a hobby s
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I guess I'm wondering how Loomis and St. Croix factory rods accomplish the feel you want. Can the geometry/arrangement they are using not be used on a custome build? Proprietary components perhaps? John
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I don't have a link, buI use a 'Nail knot' when I make trim bands. You might find lots of videos for ail knots. No more difficult for metallics imho.
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Sounds like you have what you need now so not sure if this helps but...I googled Univ of Kentucky colors and they have an 18 page pdf detailing all of the standards for the logo, color, typeface, in-use guidelines etc. Your question had prompted me to check out the 'Nova colors, I plan on building a rod for a buddy of mine, a grad from Villanova. (Villanova's logo guideline pdf is 40 pages long!)
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Maybe try a humidifier or spray some antistatic in the shop. (Without getting any on rod of course) Don't know if the rods finish/paint completely insulates, but you could try a grounding strap.
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Mudhole, one of the Board's sponsors llisted on the left, offers classes at multiple locations around the country. About 150 bucks gets you a 1 1/2 day class, and all the tools and supplies you need to walk away with your first spinning build. Great instructors and great peopple to work with. x2 on Tom Kirkman's book Can't find a friendlier or more helpful Forum than this one right here;
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I just used a piece of pvc tubing clamped in my vise at an appropriate angle. I 'think' that it only serves to hold the rod while you put a bend to it.
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I'm far from an expert so take what I say with a grain of (rock) salt...This past Saturday I started on my first attempt at using EVA for a grip. It was on a heavy salt water rod, 7 foot and I think the butt diameter was 0.875. The id of the 9 inch grip I was using was 0.75". I have heard thta EVA is supposed to expand to accomodate that diameter difference, but for whatever reason, I was un
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OK, so now after reading this reading this thread I'm thinking I just might be a dumb bunny...I wrap from right to left and on my last rod, a fly rod with snake guides, I just kept on wrapping, up the right foot, one quick turn, and down the left foot! So there is a single thread showing on the underneath (Relative to the eye) as it crosses from one foot to another. I kind of like the look, but
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Just a few days ago a fellow from this forum (thanks Mick Danek!) told me about a decal media company (Papilio). When I visited their website I found that they have a free program for designing decals. I have poked around just a little, have not really tried it 'in action' but it seems pretty straightforward. They also have some short videos which teach you the basics. Give it a try. Link is belo
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Thank you both for the ideas! Michael, once I have the blanks in hand, I'll contact you for some additional guidance. Thanks for the offer. John
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I am planning on building a matching pair of rods for my father in law. One is a heavier boat rod for stripers off the MA coast, The second is a vertical jigging rod for mackerel which will be live lined for the striper bait. Anyway, I 'd love some suggestions for thread colors etc to create a US Navy theme. I know Navy Blue and Gold, but what other ideas do you guys have? I might try and get a c
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I am not trying to be a smart aleck, rather I'm trying to get calibrated as to what is considered acceptable....Was the first word in the first post of this thread edited by you Tom, or is it considered profanity? As it appeared in my browser, the first word rhymes with bang. John
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