Would there be an advantage in wrapping the ferrules on a 4 piece graphite fly rod prior to flexing the sections to locate the spline? I wonder if this would be applicable when finding the spline on the tip section then adding one section at a time to locate the entire rod.
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second build, first blank that spine is not obvious, keeps flattening each 180 degree turn. this is a rainshadow 10'8" 6wt (IF1086-4) blank. advice, suggestions?
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Let’s say you are presented with the choice between two blanks that are equivalent in all ways. I’d like to use the word “identical” but I think some would object. Blank A has little to no clearly defined spine. Blank B has one of the most pronounced spines you have ever felt. Which one would you choose? Would you consider either one to be an indication of quality in anyway?
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We recently approved 2 impressive builds to our Approved Rod Builder Program.
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Found this article on another site. I just want some opinions on if this is crap or holds some value. For some reason I feel theres alot of varibles that arent being consider but the coffee hasnt quite kicked in. I know the line will always seek the lowest point under load causing rod twist. But anyway,thoughts are greatly appreciated to further my understanding. This doesnt seem right to me
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Ok......I haven't totally lost my mind, yet. And this isn't my first build either. But I swear, when I roll this blank between my palms, it 'pops' TWICE! I know it's 'popping' twice because I can see the strip of tape at the butt. How is that possible. Does it have more than one spine? The blank is American Tackle AMMBC843 Green Matrix. It's 84 inches. I'm going to make it into a casting rod.
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Firts time for me to build a 2 piece UL spinning rod. Should I locate the high point on both sections individually & align both to result in the total highest point? Or rotate the top section to minimize the run-out? Thanks Bill
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I have been building rods for about 2 1/2 years and really enjoy it. 100% of my builds have been lite to heavy action bass fishing rods. I am in no way insinuating that I know everything, or even half of what most of you know. When I first started, I bought a bunch of cheap blanks (2nds) to build and learn on. I had 1 blank that had a bad set to it, opposite the spine. Actually, the set
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So a bass guy who is sponsored by high end rod company hit on some points in a blog that I felt were mis-represented, so I replied and got in reply, a lashing on the use of a properly spinned rod..... So if you will here is what was posted initially: "In this blog I will follow the natural progression from reels, which is what I touched on in my last blog, to rods. In the interest of
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i has learn about spine locate on spinning rod and i wonder how tough spine loacte on heavy casting rod as muskie or bass magnum rod ? how u do it
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i just received one of the New RX8 XMB843 Rod Blanks...i am having a problem with locating the spine.....it has 2 spines...exactly opposite one another but one gives a little more of a Thump when it stops on it but time after time it will stop on each spine when i try and locate one...........what would you suggest i should do?
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I am somewhat new to the whole rod building thing. I have just over a dozen builds under my belt, and noticed something I thought was odd. I was in a local sporting goods store last night "examining" some factory production rods. (Fenwick, St. Croix, G Loomis, ect.) I notice, as to my knowledge at least, not one rod was spined properly. The only one that came close was a GLX that was
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When building a centerpin rod do you want your guides to be on the spine or opposite the spine. I understood that you want the spine to be the top of the rod. Is this correct? I have also heard that you want your guides to always be placed on the spine. Which one is it?
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im gonna build my first spiral wrap casting pole and was curious about the spine. im sure other people align the spine in different but for me i align the spine with the trigger on casting poles. do i do the same with the spiral wrap or should it be reversed? thanks Greg
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I'm starting to work on the guide spacing for my back bouncing rod and want to make the tip section as sensitive as I can to detect bites - I know that's a challenge on this heavy of a black. I've located two straight axis positions - tip bows up and tip bows down. If we go back to 8 years ago or so when spine orientation seemed to dominate the topics, I've found that this blank has two &qu
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Hi, I would like to know which side is for power and which side is for casting accuracy, on both a flyrod and a spinning rod? If I put the guides on the axis/spine does that mean more fish fighting power or better casting accuracy, and if I put the guides on the under side of the axis/spine is that more fish fighting power or better casting accuracy? Are we talking major differences onl
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...and tomorrow I will break 60 more. In an effort to most closely portray what various types of breaks caused by fisherman abuse/misuse actually look like, I've spent the better part of the day breaking 1st quality rod blanks and recording the breakages on video and in photographs. The results will be published in the Volume 12 #6 issue of RodMaker due out in December. The idea is to better
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Okay someone please correct me if I am wrong here. first you start with the handle, then second is the reel seat. third is the for grip.... (all this of course after locating the spine) so do you continuse this way, from the butt end up the rod to the tip, or does it matter which way you work either up or down when wrapping the guides in place?
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I don't mean to sound a few pickles shy of a full barrel, but what is the straightest axis on a blank. I've not seen a bent blank, or at least one that bends in one direction. When I built two kistler blanks I won on @#$%&, there was an ever so slight roll in the blank that could be seen only by looking down the blank and paying very very close attention. I've also got a 10' 5wt rainshadow bla
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I jhave talked to some other rod builders and it looks like most no longer bother to spine their rods. I cannot tell any difference one way or the other. But some dealers I talk to say to spine is very important. Given that they have been in the business for a long time I wonder why they mention this if it is not needed.
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Accomplished fly fishers routinely claim that casting accuracy is more important than casting distance. The mechanical component of fly casting accuracy apparently results more from the rod's tracking rather than its modulus or taper. When building a fly rod, especially a multi-piece rod, which is more likely to provide straight tracking, aligning the spines(s) of the blank's segments or aligning
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I have been spineing rods for some time now, but have recently run into some things that have me wondering if I might be doing this correctly. I build rods that are multi-piece. I recently built a 2 piece Sage fly rod. The blank came from Sage with marks on both pieces. Sage said that this blank was marked to be built where they would build the rod. They said that they do not spine blanks an
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I was reading Tom Kirkman's fine article on guide placement and came up on the phrase "Now set the guides between the intersect guide and the tiptop" Being a newby, I checked the Rodbuilding Glossary and found that the "Intersect" and "choke" guide are the same thing and this location is the point where a line drawn from the "reel spool centerline" will in
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I recently sent a fly rod I built back to the blank manufacturer to have a broken tip section replaced and got the rod back last week.Upon looking at the new tip section a bit closer I noticed that the wall thickness of the female ferrule was not the same all the way around the opening.When looking in to the female ferrule opening it is quite noticeable to the naked eye(no need of a magnifier) as
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I am one who does not worry about the spine on single hand fly rods. However up into the long spey rods I am not so sure. The actions they go through perhaps the spine is very important. How in the world would spine.....well....actually how would you place the guides on each section of the rod in relation to the spine? It could be so different thoughout the whole casting process. How do you spine
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Would you go section to section from the butt aligning the pieces for the straightest axis or or spine the sections and adjust the tip section to find the straightest axis on which to build or any other idea?
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Am I correct that the term "building on an axis" means that is the line or side along which the guides are placed and wrapped?
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I have decided to release the RodMaker Special Edition on Guide Sizing and Placement on CD. The run will be limited to 250 copies. They are $29.95 each, postpaid (no extra shipping charge). Check or money order to RodMaker, PO Box 1322, High Point, NC 27261. Or credit card via www.rodmakermagazine.com I have packed a lot of "extras" into this edition and there are several article
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I have decided to release the RodMaker Special Edition on Guide Sizing and Placement on CD. The run will be limited to 250 copies. They are $29.95 each, postpaid (no extra shipping charge). The first 10 to order will receive a free Fuji tiptop sizing gauge. Check or money order to RodMaker, PO Box 1322, High Point, NC 27261. At some point they will be available on the RodMaker Magazine w
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I am a rookie when it comes to rod building, and no doubt i have a bit to learn, but over all, things are progressing nicely for me. I do have a couple of questions though. I purchased two rod blanks that I will be making into spinners, for inshore fishing, namely stripers. The blanks are as follows. St Criox 3C80MF 8’ and a Lami GSH961MT also 8'. When spining them, the Lami would roll
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