In your opinions what makes a rod custom?im just curious how other people define it.i personally believe that if a person comes to you for a rod it's custom as they couldn't get what they wanted at a store no matter how flashy or utilitarian it is.my builds are the latter category with little touches
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I am having an issue with finding the spine on my new build. I am building on a Rainshadow ip904 and when I spine the rod, I mark it and then look down the blank and see that the bend in the tip doesnt match my spine marks. I want to build straight on the spine but dont want to have the rod look bent. Please help!
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I have just bought a GWR 783C from a mail order fishing store . When I opened the tube and picked up the rod I and rolled it around my fingers and noticed the seat and the guides were 45 degrees off the strongest of the 2 spines within the blank . Whether I got one that the reel seat was glued at 4.55pm on a Friday afternoon or G Loomis ( Shimano ) don't align the reel seats with the spine of the
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I ha e a Phenix blank FX761-1 and it seems to have 2 spines 180 apart. Have any of you seen this before and how did you solve this problem.
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I want to build a cranking rod for mid to deep diving cranks for bass, I was thinking about a phenix x-12 with size 3 running guides, with a simple spiral, just didn't know if this is the right application for a spiral, and if it is, what's the spine location supposed to be on a spiral rod? I have not built a spiral yet but have been doing a lot of research and only read good things about them.
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With a 4 piece 14' spey blank the butt ends of the blank would be hard to spine I think. I am aware of the opinions that the spine doesn't matter. I believe the larger the load is the more the spine cold be a consideration. So...could one effectively spine each section of the 4 piece blank and then line them all up....and have a pretty good true spine effect axis? One could either put tur
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I was wondering if this has ever happened to anyone, I have spined many blanks before and never had the problem. I just got an MHX surf blacnk from one of the sponsors here and while trying to locate the spine the first 6 inches snapped off pretty clean. No splinter or excessive fray ?? Not blaming the blank, could have been the way I was trying to find the spine which is the same way I always
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In recent days, I have watched a few different fishing tournaments, as well as a variety of fishing shows. Then, I couple that information with the days that I have spent on the water fishing and have come to the conclusion, that distance casting - as seems to be emphasized by some rod builders seem to be far from the typical fisherman's day. i.e. over the years and having read the hundred
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I did a search and it had alot of good info. but getting ready to start rod #3 and been told you need to find the spine and told that with todays blanks there is no need to locate the spine. What do most rod builders do? What a great hobby to have.
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So, while building my rod, I was playing around with my Sages and a TFO and noticed that the guides seem to be wrapped on a 90 from the spine. Is this my imagination or does this sound right? It makes sense in a way because most people including me, at least when throwing shorter casts, seem to throw with the rod at a bit of an angle Am I correct? I ended up putting mine on the inside of the
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I just did a static test on a 7'6" med. casting rod using #3 micros tip to butt. I'm finding to get the line to match blank curve like I like I'm using 17 guides. Does this seem like way too many?
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I need some advice- St Croix gives our High School club a really, really, great deal on cosmetic second quality rod blanks- as a general rule they are in outstanding shape. Here is my problem: some of the blanks have the top two to three inches crooked. Should we cut this part off or should we just ignore it? How crooked is crooked? What are the concerns in terms of trimming the blanks shorter?
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I have never done a spiral wrap. Can anyone tell me where the spine should be located when using a conventional spiral wrap ?
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Here's a question for you rod builders. I'm a new rod builder, working on my fifth rod. I'm happy with my first four rods. But with my fifth rod something different happened. After mounting the handle and grip I temporarily located the guides, did a static test, everything looked fine. So I went out and did a test cast. This is where I ran into a problem. When casting, the casting plug is
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Where do you prefer to align the guides on a 8wt Skagit, on the spine side or opposite the spine
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I can spline a single blank pretty easily but I have a two piece 10 ft surf rod blank. How do you spline this? The bottom segment is too stiff and the top segment does not seem to settle to the spine when rolled on the floor. I figure you should not try to spline with both segments attached, right?
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I was reading an earlier post of a situation where a rod was being splined and broke. There were several subtopics that spawned off of the main subject however, the one that really caught my eye was some rod builders don't spline their rods or at least it's not that important. The question for a beginning builder as myself is To Spline or Not To Spline? Is it that important or not? I'm certainly
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The blank snapped while splining the blank....Never had this happen, and I wasn't even applying heavy pressure with my splining mechanism. Has anyone had this happen to them before? I called mudhole, and they said they would get back to me.
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I am getting ready to order parts for a new build. I have 2 different reels that I want to use with this rod. One has a spool Diam. of 35mm and the other is 41mm. The center of the spool for both these reels is the same. I will be using 2lb diam braid on one reel, and 4 or 6lb diam braid on the other. I know that the choker guide is placed by the diam. of the reel spool. Should I use an ave
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So after installing my grip and real seat I realized I put the real seat opposite of the spine:(... What Is the best way to remove the real seat?
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I am building a st-croix casting rod , my question is if your blank has a curve near the tip that is slight but easy to see looking down the blank, is it best to put the curve up or down ? the curve is slightly off the spine of the blank. any advice will be greatly appreciated .
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As a relatively new rod builder I was surprised in reading a post by Tom Kirkman about the spine not being absolutely essentially to find in building a rod. I do believe that is true in some instances but since I mainly build surf rods for large fish I was concerned about this. The recent article in RM on deadlift capacity shows some interesting data. Now, would some testing on casting distan
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We are happy to announce the next generation of World Class Rod Blanks are set to debut the last week in April. The High Modulus MHX Series is the new gold standard in rod blanks available to the custom rod builder. Constructed of 57 million modulus 100% graphite. High Modulus MHX blanks are among the lightest and most sensitive rod blanks in the world. The High Modulus MHX blanks have been un
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Lets start with static testing. I got 2 rod right now I'm building. The first one is 7' mh fast the seconf is 7'-6" xh fast. I started with the 7' buid. I put 10 micro's on the rod plus the tip and ran the line like I'm suppose to. When I did the test the first time I ended up with 9 guides left which is right so I thought. I did it again and I had 10 guides on the blank left. I understand I
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I can't believe I am asking this question after building (5) fly rods, but I've had some long plane rides lately and brought along Tom Kirkman's book on rod building and on another trip Schenk's? book on building fly rods. The first thing I ever learned about rod building was when Don Morton showed me how to find the spine. Since then I have read or learned to place guides on a fly rod opposi
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hello all! I just got a 6'6" fly rod 2wt. that i am going to build into a ultra light spinning rod, the problem is that the tip has a bend in it probably like a 20% bend, it is really noticable, sending it back would'nt be worth it , cause it is like a 30 $ rod, so si there any thing I could do to make this not so noticable, I know that I should put the guides on with the bend downwards, I t
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In the latest edition of Rodmaker magazine there is an interesting article by Mr. Kirkman on a rods spine which basically says that everything you've ever read about in books, seen on videos or have learned from others is an unnessary step in a build. What I find even more interesting is that on this forum nobody has come forward to discuss and/or dispute that claim. Any takers?
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I have been building some 8 ft. 3 and 4 weight fly rods. I always find the spline and put the guides opposite the Spline. Most all the rods I have built have a drift when looking down the guides they will drift to one side or the other, not being exactly straight. My question is this; should I worry about the spline and not worry about the alignment, or should I connect the rod (2 piece) so I can
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I am reading on spining 2 or more piece rods, itsaid to spine each piece separatley, I have a 2 piece med.lt, 7 foot fast action, do i need to soine the lower half.
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