anyone have any good tips to making color preservative really soak in. I'm finding my finish to be blotchy once the flex coat goes on. can't notice it before hand, after 3 coats of preservative. had some flex coat foam up on me and never did clear up wonder if it was too warm prior to mixing - any fed back is welcomed. dave
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I was just wondering if it makes sense not to use a Forhan locking wrap, in certain applications. Specifically, it might be preferrable to have a guide pull free, rather than impart that stress on the tip section of a rod, which could snap the blank. Any thoughts?
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Well here are the Plans on my first project. First I got lucky and found the only person alive who is athurized to sell Kistler Helium Blanks. They are close out blanks, and after inquiring from Kistlers Web site about them, and the gentleman selling them, I was pleased to recieve a Email form Trey Kistler, confirming that these are true Kistler Heilum Blanks. I ordered four blanks. here are
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bear with me here, its been a long haul heres the backdrop: I have been working on a recent rod project for the past two weeks, a rainshadow IST1283F rx7 steelhead blank. 10'6" in length with a 8-12lb line rating. The only thing that i have left to do is install the rubberized cork butt plug. I stripped the rods original finish off with citri-strip as described on these forums. I want
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I'm currently doing a rebuild on a Loomis STFR 1601. I'm having difficulty removing the last bit of epoxy "film" from the blank. The process I've used so far is to score the epoxy and wraps on top of the guide foot, peel off as much epoxy and thread as I can with my finger nail, use a steamer to get the stubborn stuff off, which still leaves me with discolored section of the blank wh
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I have two conventional rods that need the foregrips repaired. The first is a 12 inch hypalon that has become loose starting about three inches from the reel seat. I remember reading somewhere that I can shoot rodbond down the inside of the grip with a syringe. I just can not see how I can get the rod bond down that far into the grip with a syringe spout large enough to allow the rod bond t
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I have a blank that was bought a few years ago by my father. He put a handle and seat on it with rodbuilders epoxy and I believe he used super glue to secure ONE LARGE Spinning guide. I am working on finishing the build with a nice custom handle and the guide spacing is all messed up with that one guide on there. At this point the handle is removed leaving a bunch of the epoxy. What is the
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I am missing something on masking tape.. It doesn't seem to stick to Rods,Guides and the like. It adheres well to my fingers and to itself. Iwatched Doc Ski's video, His masking tape sticks! I was watching Artie Hebert's DVD doing a chevron wrap.. He would tear off a piece of 1/4 masking tape about an inch long or so, and it would hold the thread in place while he would wrap to the other end
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I needed to replace one guide on a Fenwick FS83 and wound up removing 3 guides plus the top and the other guides look like they are corroded enough to ruin my line if I use those. So I'm thinking of pulling all the guides and replacing them with sf Alconites. I've been able to remove the residue between the thread and the blank but I'm down to bare fiberglass. Is there a way to remove the entire
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Just an update on my first build. I finally found the time to wrap my guides, finish them. The build: Rainshadow RX8+ 822.5 with split Batson woven graphite handle and blank exposed seat. Guides ALPS double foot 8, ALPS micro single foot fly guides in sizes 5, 4, 3 (6 of them in the tip section), with a size 4 tip top. The guides were arranged in a simple spiral, and the rod is paired with
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Once you get footballing on your initial guide wraps is there anyway of correcting it other than removing the guides and starting over? As always thanks for the help. Tom Church
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What would be the best way to remove old guides and wraps and to ge ready for new guides and wraps ? Any advice would be helpful!!
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when test casting a surf rod what do you use to hold the guides temporarily? i have the little rubber bands for my bay rods but somehow i don't think they'll hold up to a pendulum or backcast. and how much force do you use? do you go full bore or like 1/2 speed?
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I had someone approach me today said he has a rod that he loves and is dear to him and wants it rewrapped what is involved in getting the old wraps off and rewreapping the guides?
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Gidday, my name is tom and i am 16 years old i live in brisbane australia, ive posted once before so i just thought id say hi in this one. i am currently building my second rod which is being built on a samurai S0001X blank and i am using single foot guides and im having some troubles. ive tried hot melt glue but i find it bulks it up to much, ive tried rubber bands and tape and none of them seem
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I have a repair customer that wants me to put a fresh coat of finish on the entire length of a 7ft allstar rod. Any advice on what to charge? Best Regards, Jeff Rodda
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I am thinking about taking a G loomis bcr803 jig and worm series rod and rebuilding it because I want to use the blank. My question is what is the best way to remove the green finish from the blank? I want a natural matte carbon look with no finish at all. Can I sand the finish off, or can I use alcohol to remove it?
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I just built my first rod and when I was done including the finish, I noticed that the guides were out of line. So I started to take the guides off with a razor, dull knife and finishing with a heat gun to remove the finish. On my last guide, just below the tip top and during the application of heat the rod just started to sag and then bent down. I figure that I must have applied too much h
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If this really works and is durable, is there any reason not to make this the PRIMARY approach on really light stuff like fly and ultralight spinning?
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If anyone can help me out, I'd really appreciate it. I have an 8 wt fly rod which I wrapped about 5 years ago. Recently I noticed the guide rings in the two strippers were cracked and sharp as razors. Before removing the guides I further noticed that the blank has a small nick in it – immediately adjacent and below one of the wraps. So where do I replace the double-foot stripping guide in
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I just completed my first rod (a Temple Fork 10wt) and I am not happy with a few of the guides and one ferrule wrap. My last few guides are better than my first few (learning curve I guess). I never really got into a grove with understanding how much finish to put on. I am using Flex Coat light and started with putting on really thin coats. This seemed to keep things nice and smooth but it see
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I decided to try the Rod Bond finish product when I'm used to Flex Coat. I guess the temps were too low or I didn't stir it long enough. The finish didn't come out well at all (bubbles, uneven distrubution). I followed the usual tips ( used foil, turn and scrape every two minutes until it stops dripping and turned on dryer, used straw for bubbles). I've had great success with the FlexCoat but
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I stripped the guides off one of my old Bass Pro rods yestarday. Not as easy as I thought it would be. In two places I got into the finish and can see the blank. How do I know if I got into the graphite fibers or not? Is it obvious or do I have to use a magnifying glass?
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I have only seen plate type reel seats on spinning rods. Do they not make good casting seats?
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I guess this is sort of a poll question. I was wondering what other rod builders thought were the most important things you can do to actually build a better rod. Better than factory off the rack rods. If you want to be able to show your customers just why your rods are better than what they get at the local sports shop or tackle store what are the things that you can really use and prove to be t
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I have a couple old rods that need some new strippers. Any sure fire methods to remove epoxy as to not lift the finish? I tried several search words and couldn't find anything. I havnt done much repair and thinking its going to be much more tricky than doing a "first wrap" and epoxy job?
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To all, Just thought I'd share a few thoughts on my experiance with how well ThreadMaster epoxy has faired in an actual on-the -water <> Hard fished enviornment. I've had several field rods (a couple dozen of them) build with the ThreadMaster in the hands of many anglers now ever since Andy released it. My field rods are rods that I send out to clients to try out prior to purchase
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As mentioned in an earlier thread, I'm building my first rod. After seeking advice about epoxy vs. polyurethane I decided to go with Flex Coat High Build for this job. I was generally pleased with the way the way the finish turned out except that the coating appears much too thin where the thread wraps cross the guide feet, so that the epoxy seems at those places to have just saturated the th
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Recently I was given a rod which has a damaged guide and ferrule wrap. After removing the damaged wraps, I noticed that the thread color was an aqua color but on the finished side the color appears to be a greenish/aqua. My question is: Is it just old age which yellowed the finish, or is it possible that the finish was somehow tinted?
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I just purchased a used Loomis IMX 2pc, 6wt, 9ft. I got a really good price on the rod and noticed the epoxy is worn out in some areas of the guide wraps and the thread is becoming exposed. I would like to completely redo the rod with new eyes and thread, and maybe a handle if possible. What is the best method of removing the old wrap with epoxy on it without scratching the rod? I know the ha
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