Okay, heres the story, I was working on my rod, removing finish with a razor and flame. I failed to notice that I had a towel with paint thinner on it right under my rod. Well, the towel caught fire, and burned my cork grip. I tried to sand it, but it turned my whole grip black. The grip still has its shape, but looks really bad. I had to use the heat because I couldnt get the old epoxoy to p
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If you use a combination of NCP and Regular Nylon threads on a butt wrap Do you coat the whole wrap with CP. This is probably a newb question but I am just that a newb. Have been thinking about that for a while and cant seem to figure it out. Thanx again in advance for all of you help. Michael "Tarpon Tamer" Friske
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How would I remove only the finish on my guides? Some have too much finish, and sagged a little when I thought they were dry :( If I have to I would re-wrap the guides, but I would like an easier solution. If it helps I am using flexcoat finish, and a forecast fly rod blank frm H&H. Thanks in advance
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I'm curious! Approx. how much time are some of you more experienced builders putting in to your higher quality builds? I know you guys doing the fancy weaves have multiple hours in just the weaving alone but if you take weaving out of the equation, how much time are you putting into a nice build..... guides, wraps, handles, inlays, finish?!? Thanks
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Just got my 13' Forecast Spey back from the finish shop and am very happy with it. Spent the weekend casting with it. It is a ton of fun; especially when people mistake the deep-blue color of the blank or a $800 Thomas & Thomas! The blank was $60. But, it just flew apart at a ferrel in the middle of a big role cast. No big deal really, but it did cause a little damage to the epoxy on
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Is there anyone who knows where I could find a supplier for factory seconds blanks. I am a new rod maker and would like some inexpensive blanks to experiment on. Paying full price when you are ironing out your mistakes might be too expensive. Any suppliers you know of would be appreciated. Thanks Thom Cherry Louisville, KY
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I have used the Cabelas high build on my first rod because it was in the rod kit. I din't like it cause when I was done putting it on, the finish was different size on each guide feet. So to keep that from happening again I bought FC lite build. I like it, but on but wraps its hard to get even. I have read one of the other peoples post and they were told to put it on and let sag, take off extra
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Hello, A friend asked me to restore his vintage fiber glass St. Croix spinning rod and I have a few questions. The factory finish was thin and appears to have worn off. Is there a noninvasive way to remove the rest of it? And can Flexcoat light be used to refinish them; or does fiber glass require varnish? Thanks in advance, Steve
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Hello everyone, I need some advice on a Harvest 2 wt. I'm planning to rebuild. Because the blank is painted, I'm not sure what's the best way to remove the wraps. I'm afraid the paint will come off when I remove the guidewraps. I saw Jarno Saario's pictures of the same rod, so I know it can be done, can't E-mail him directly however. Thanks for all the help! Joost.
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I have a Cabela's Master Series rod I am replacing some guides on for a friend. I can easily tell that there were at least two coats, possibly three coats of epoxy applied. Began removing the first guide with a razor and you talk about some TOUGH almost petrified epoxy! I applied some heat with a heat gun and it softened up well enough to easily strip the old wraps off. What I am left with is som
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How do you all remove dust / debris from your wraps / rod prior to appling finish? Is it OK to use something like a tack cloth or would that leave a residue? BjR
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Just curious, to those who use a lot of Tennessee grips for spinning rods, how do you like to mount the reel to the grip. I have always used double faced tape on the inside of the reel seat that mounts flush on the cork, and then either the aluminum or graphite rings. Some fellows like using black electrical tape but what other tape or options might work well and leave a clean look. Thanks for
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In rummaging through my stack of rods I came across my first flyrod, an old Heddon Pal, over 40yrs old, time sure flies. I thought that I would rebuild the rod guides, cork, etc.,. The rod is painted and has several chips in the finish. I've never painted a rod before and would like some recommendations as to how. Additionallly, what would be the best way to remove the metal ferrules for replace
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I would first like to say that this forum is loaded with great information from what seem like great people. As a rookie to rod building I thought this would be a great place to get a few questions answered. 1. I have few rods I would like to put new guides on. What is the best way to remove the old finish to get to the wraps? 2. I have been doing alot of research trying to determine which
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I have built several e-glass rods for catfishing and a couple of graphite muskie , underwrapping all the guides. I have recently been approached by a few bass fisherman interested in my work. To get the lightest weight and sensitiviy they crave I know a basic wrap is the way to go, but with the price they are willing to pay for a blank I am worried about guide wear against the blank resultin
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The first rod I built several years ago was a Rainshadow RX7 4 wt. Used single foot wire guides covered with spar varnish. I felt like the spar varnish was a little more user friendly for my first attempt. It turned out quite nice actually. Green wraps on the green blank......A Winston type look (which for some reason was important when I built it). Anyway....being my first attempt I ended
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The Rod a Daiwa Powermesh 13 ft - 2 piece Steelhead Float Rod . (Model # PP132-2RS) Daiwa Carbo Whisker - 1/16 - 3/8 oz lures 6 to 8 lb line. DOES ANYONE KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT THIS PARTICULAR ROD .... ? 1/ - Originally a factory built rod. 2/ - Rod re-wrapped new high frame SIC's fitted ! (not my work - done by previous rod buider) 3rd Time now I'm planning a tip to but
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I am building up two Seeker blanks (CLB704 and CLB706) with American tackle ti turbo guides spiral wrapped. The rods (handle on and guides taped on )are fairly light in hand for a live bait rod, I would like to keep it light as possible, therefore what is your take on just single wrapping the guides without an underwrap? Or do I need to dbl wrap with underwraps? The rods will be used for troll
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I am new to rod building. I have prepared three blanks with handles, seat, and tip top. I'm ready to place my guides. All three rods will be for So. California surf fishing. I like to walk the surf and cast for perch, halibut, etc. I have the length, action, and power that I like. Two are St Croix SCV and one is an Amtak IM6 that I got in a liquidation sale. All are 7' baitcasters. My problem rig
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I have been jumping around this forum and another,in the very recent past, in an effort to find the info and how to explanations of rod building. I don't have a desire to take on a new hobby,my goal at the outset was to just convert a bait caster to spinning. I learned very quickly that there was more to this than just taking a guide off the top of the rod and securing it in turn to the unders
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Looking for the safest way to remove old flex coat without damaging the blank
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Help, I have a 40+ year old Bamboo fly rod that a costumer would like me to restore. It will not be fished with afterwords. I have never worked with Bamboo and would like any help out there. What should I use on the bamboo after I get the varnish or shellac off? Do I use the same on the wraps? Oh ,don't forget to clue me in on how to get the tiptop off without breaking this womens late g
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I was reading the flexcoat website on how they apply their finishes. In one step it said "Note: We do not use color preserver on any of the wraps that hold the guides down because it prevents the finish from soaking into the thread, which is essential for a strong bond." Now I am currently making a few rods where I did put color preserver on the threads. I thought you have to pu
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I briefly did a search to find the answer, but I could not find it, so my apologies if this is a repeat. I just put a post up about a couple guides being out of alignment, and it was suggested to remove them and properly align them. So obviously it's possible to remove the guide/wraps/epoxy safely or else it wouldn't have been suggested. How does one remove all that safely and cleanly?
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I am getting ready to build a stand-up rod (30-50#) for a friend. I have built several bass rods and one 20# class rod. Here are my ideas...please let me know where I am messing up and what I need to change. 1. I would like to underwrap each guide with metallic thread, is this ok? I figure that way I can put a small trim band under center of guide and then wrap the guide to the rod with
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I am getting ready to wrap a rainshadow rx7 green blank and I am thinking of the color old gold with no cp. It looks nice on the brown practice blank. I don't want to do any green even though it looks nice. Its just been done so much and I have a winston in similiar colors. I have also done burgandy/red on green.I don't care for the rest of the spectrum with a green blank.. Has anyone wrapped gol
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When you use heat to soften up the epoxy on a guide wrap, what precautions do you need to take to protect the integrity of the blank? I thought about covering the blank on both sides of the wrap with multiple layers of paper topped by aluminum foil, so that the heat would only reach the wrap. Can a blank safely take 15 seconds or so from a heat gun?
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I've been given the task of restoring a very old rod. The man loves it so much he wants to keep the original guides, grips,seat,and butt etc.. He justs wants the blank refinished (any way I want to) because...it was in a fire. There does not appear to be any damage from the fire other than all the epoxy scorched,bubbled, and a bit melted. I've managed to easily remove all the guides, thread a
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Can Klass Kote be put over Flex Coat High build? Thanks
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You will have to excuse me here because I am green at this. Hope this question doesnt sound too dumb. Since I am reguiding my rod, I would like to go to a different color thread. My question is: the female part of the ferule is thread wrapped so I would have to remove it and rewrap. Is this adviseable to do or would I do more harm than good to the ferule? Thanks
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