Lol
Forum: rodboard

how to find spine on fly rod blank mhx on 4 pieces rod
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I'm making 12 foot overhead on a 4 wrap medium taper fibreglass blank. Overheads on such soft rods are prone to turning under load if the spine is not accurately chosen. A quick palm roll suggests that my blank has two 180 degree opposed spines. Do I want to use the weaker of these two spines? My plan was to affix the rod and attach a small weight to the end and test which spine bends the most
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Hi:I looked in the library but no mention of this. When locating the spine on a 4 piece fly rod do you spine each piece individually? Seems like this would be necessary except for the butt piece maybe...
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How do you find the strongest axis on the lower half of a 4 piece fly rod blank? Tight lines and frisky fish RJF
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Workin on my fist rod build -- puttin together a spinning rod and am wonderin what the preferred guide placement is; on top of curve (tip down) or bottom (tip "up") of curve? Or, does it really matter? Thanx fer yer input/opinion Take care and stay safe Roger
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I just saw a video, , where a fellow explained rod spine as where the layers of graphite (young fellow, never heard of fiberglass) overlap as the material is rolled on the mandrel. Where the end of the material acts with the beginning of the material to create a stronger side, thus forming the spine. He further explains how the spine must be placed as the rod bends so the rod doesn’t twist under
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Up to now I have only wrapped one piece 7-8 foot off shore rods and know you need to find the spine for placing the reel seat and guides. I just purchased a couple of lamiglas downrigger blanks and I am wondering if you need to find the spine for these rods? I placed the butt half of the blank with the end wrapped in masking tape to make it fatter so it fit better in my spine finder and put a ben
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I wonder what are the three most common false beliefs or conclusions held by rod builders about building rods?
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I read the thread on spine vs straightest axis. What are some techniques for a 4 piece fly rod, if any?
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I have been reading the forum for a while now without posting and have finally had enough of people spouting RUBBISH about how the spine doesn't matter.. It does matter - a LOT I tested all my rods by hand and those that had a strong spine which weren't spine built torque twisted horribly under load - the effect was obvious, horrible, and very detrimental - basically a terrible lack of sensiti
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Hey everyone! I'm a beginner rod builder (in my 30s) and I am working on making my first custom build from top to bottom. I've been a fisherman since I could walk, but I never dived into the intricacies of more advanced fishing. I've recently grabbed a few spinning rods/reels and have been fishing heavily the last few months (focusing on finesse ned/neko rigs, worming texas/carolina, and sm/
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I liked my first X-ray 736 I built so I purchased another one. But the blank diameters on the new one are way bigger and the blank definitely has more power to it. The butt is .632” vs the listed .490” and the tip is 2.18mm vs the listed 1.7mm. I did contact nfc and the reply was these are just “normal variations in the materials” and I could send it back but it “may not be quick” to receive my
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Rod blank fabricators use prepreg graphite fabric from a limited number of producers, use bonding agents from a limited number of suppliers, and employ mandrels to shape rod blanks from an even smaller number of alternatives. Advertising and pricing are not reliable guides to the performance of rods or rod blanks, any more than the most expensive, hyped-up golf clubs will perform best for the vas
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I have a new CTS Quartz CristalGlass blank. with a gorgeous lime-green finish. In removing some thread wraps due to an imperfection, I accidentally removed a little paint. Can anyone recomend a paint, or ink that will adhere to this very smooth rod blank. I want to make this little piece of the blank beautiful again. Any help would be appreciated. Tight Lines and Frisky fish RJF
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Greetings. I've been building rods for just over a year now. I've got a few under my belt. I build inshore saltwater spinning and casting along with fly rods for both salt and fresh (trout in NC). I build for myself, friends and family. As one of those people that likes details and data I have started to work with the Common Cents System. I've built myself a fixture for supporting rods in a repet
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Hello, new to the forum, new to rod building. I hope someone can help. I am getting ready to build a 4 pc, 9 ft 6 wt. How important is it to find the spine on the butt section? I am not so worried about the other 3 sections, But I have read that it is just about as easy to break this section as it is to find the spine.
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Apparently I am either stupid or physically challenged, I cant for the life of me make a rod do anything when i am trying to spine it. I have watched the mudhole video repeatedly, bought the crb spine finder and I cant make putting it on a flat surface and bending it towards the ceiling or using the spine finder and bending it towards the ground work. I have tried rolling it, pinching it and cuss
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Hi guys, Ok, so I have 2 Rainshadow 6'2" spinning rod blanks (fast and xfast) for walleye jigging. From an earlier post, it was suggested to place reel seat at around 8 to 10 inches from the butt. With the microwave guides, I now have, they overlap of how American would space the guides. They have a 2 step process in measuring. First is to measure from the lip of the spool and plac
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While I'm waiting for my NFC MB736 XRay to come in, I'm trying to figure out the guide train. I haven't decided on whether I'll spiral wrap it or not, but I'm considering both options for now. I've read through more than a few posts on the forum, but haven't read much on using the newer KR concept guides for spiral wrapping. Here are the options that I'm debating... Reel Setup -30 lb Daiwa
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I have been building rods and teaching rod building for a few years. When I get to guide placement I use the same process I think most of us do. Place the guides where we think they belong, then test to see if the "arc" looks right and adjust from there. I have been doing that for probably 30+ years of building. But in all those years I never knew (or really tried to find out) why I
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Hey guys/gals, I had a difficult time finding anything about this so I’m posting it here in the hopes that someone here can help me. I’ve been working on a DIY power rod wrapper using an old sewing machine motor and miscellaneous parts I have lying around the shop. I know I need to slow the motor down using pulleys and a reduction ratio but I’ve had a @#$%& of a time finding suitable pulleys o
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Started to apply epoxy on thread last night and noticed where I marked the spine the residual from the mark is bleeding thru or showing. I cleaned all my marks rubbing thread across them first and then wiping with alcohol. I don’t see anything where I marked guide placement but now concerned that there’s still some residual left on the blank. This is the first matte blank that I’ve used is there
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Hello All I am new to the forum. I have built about 9 rods scince starting this hobby a couple of years a go. Ive built 5 rods for bass fishing using St.Croix blanks and the rest have been rod kits from MudHole. I am in the process of building a bass rod using a St. Croix 2SW76MHF (7'6" - MH). I plan on using Mico Guides on the blank. Called St.Croix and they said it would work but would no
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What is your position on the building of fly rods regarding placement of the spine? More power on the fighting of the fish and back cast stroke, or more power on the loading for the forward casting stroke. I've been told that more power on the forward stroke can cause the tip to move in ellipses causing casting problems.
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I did a search for Spiral Wrap and Acid Wrap but none came up, so if there is a thread (pun) on it already, please point me in the right direction. Otherwise... I understand the concept and theory behind the spiral wrap but I haven't found any information on setting it up. I'm looking for a straight answer on: Which spline to use, Casting or spinning? Number of guides? Degrees of rotation?.
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I have a 7' RODgeeks C2 L-F cut down to a 6'6". Spine is found. Cork handle reamed and ready to glue on and I eyed down it on my test fit before actually gluing it and the blank has a very noticeable bend in it about 12" from the tip. If I where to glue the handle and put the guides on in this location it would be very noticeable. Any suggestions as to how to resolve this. I have anothe
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‘Morning all. I just received a 9wt Sage Salt HD blank for a build. Does anyone have advice on how to remove the silk screened logo on the blank? They are never in the right place and often off axis to the spine I want to use (not that it matters that much in a butt section) I recently did a Sage Mod and the black ink used in the logo came off with acetone in a wile or three. For a Sage X w
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I generally build to the straightest axis and forget about it on spinning rods. But I started using some blanks that generally have a very pronounced spine - they are smaller diameter slightly heavier wall, bass and walleye type spinning rods. With the really pronounced spine, and wanting to jump to a particular spot when checked, I'm having a hard time not building to the spine on them.
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Getting ready to wrap. My guide placement puts a guide close to the ferrule. If I wrap my ferrule as I have in the past then wrap the guide I will have only about a half inch gap between the two. Cannot deice if I should wrap it all as one or leave the gap. If I wrap as one I will have a little over two inches. Other than my visual preference any concern of having that much wrap over the ferrule
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